Torque specs for front hub/rotor asse... Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

DiscoWeb Bulletin Board » Message Archives » 2002 Archives - Technical » Discovery » Torque specs for front hub/rotor assembly « Previous Next »

  Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post
  ClosedClosed: New threads not accepted on this page        

Author Message
 

gp (Garrett)
Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 10:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

does any know or have the torque specs for the rotor bolts, axle nut and other bolts associated with the hub/rotors/etc.

thanks much!!!
 

Blue (Bluegill)
Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 10:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

finally fixing the stuck pig, eh?

carefull with the drive flange bolts - they apparently break very easily. In fact, now's a good time to replace them with something real. I don't have any torque specs or other info here in OH with me, sorry...
 

gp (Garrett)
Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 10:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

yeah. the rotors are sounding pretty nasty and the right front one is tore up a little. tired of hearing them sounding like shit. and that one hub seal has been pissing all over my pretty NATO. that and it stinks pretty bad of bearing grease.
 

gp (Garrett)
Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 10:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

reason i am asking is that there is nothing listed in the workshop manual about torquing them. guess just getting them tight with an air tool is good enough.

oh and another thing. have the truck torn apart as we speak. looks like i need the inner axle tube (shaft) seal as well. repacked the bearings, but i need this seal as well. i am guessing no one local with have this item. anyone ever replaced this and gotten the part locally? except a rover dealer. i would have to have it overnighted from the dealer. don't have one local.
 

Dee
Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 10:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Gp,
The Inner Spindle nuts torque to 90 then back of 1/4 turn then softly snug down until it seats, not hard just firm like 20 or so. This method will set the endfloat for older bearings.

If you are replacing the bearings and races you should check the end float the real way with a dial indicator.

Then put a new tab washer torque outer nut to 90ftlbs and bend the tabs

Flange bolts torque to 60. I replaced mine with some 12pt ones last brake job.

I belive the caliper bolts are 60

I have a shit load of the seals washers and paper gaskets also the 12 point bolts.

if your intrested let me know
 

gp (Garrett)
Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 10:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

thanks Dee. i got the bearing seal from you guys a while back, but just getting around to it now. i will let you know what happens. i need to have the truck back on the road ASAP. not having my truck is like not having my.........well you know.

:)
 

gp (Garrett)
Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 10:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

dee do know if that seal cross references to a generic seal i can get at a local parts store. thing is i am working in a friends service bay and have parts all over and need get this done ASAP. don't want to leave the truck on the rack all day if i can't help it.
 

Dee
Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 12:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I could not find that seal used any where else..
For that seal to get it ASAP hit up the Dealer it will be about the same with post and all
 

gp (Garrett)
Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 03:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

yep. just drove 1.5 hours to Harrisburg LR to get some seals. that was fun. at least i got to drive in style. took Jen's D2. man that is nice to drive. i can actually go over 65 mph and it is so damn smooth. and everything works too. wow.
 

Dee
Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 03:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Good luck to you, what king of grease are you using? I like the Lucas green sync. seems to hold up well when wet also...
 

gp (Garrett)
Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 03:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

it's not the 90W stuff that use to be used. this is the stuff they are now using at the dealers. just a heavier weight. i think it is the syn lucas stuff. i was in such a hurry i did not even look at it. in the typical swivel grease LR tube though. wanted to spend some time at the dealer checking out some of the series trucks and a few nice modified D90's, but i had to get back on the road and haul back here. got the paper hub seal and the the other flang seal as well while i was there.
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 04:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Dee:
Be careful suggesting the dial indicator method-I caught hell for it as everybody knows, everybody uses the tighten until it won't turn and back off a quarter turn method...

You and I, who have a box of indicators and bases, on the other hand, know exactly what our bearing endfloat specs are!

Also, I did a set of front bearings on a '93 Rangie the other day and I was able to tighten the hub nut all the way and the rotor never stopped turning! Endfloat in specs, but disconcerting all the same.

It is nice to have the indicator when doing CV joints though so that one can get the correct shims. Now, I just need a metric indicator!

Peace,
paul

PS: I got the EIN from the IRS today for BTL. I'm all official. Now, just need to hire the contractor and get the damned building up!
 

Dee
Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 05:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hey I figured if I did not quote the LR Bible way id catch flack, I was shown the method I described by a local LR wrench a few years ago its only failed me once when I for got to back it off.. @ 90 ftlbs bearings don't last long...

LOL on the metric, just convert is cheaper, or go with the digital ones I have seen one you can sel the output readings...

Congrats on the new venture, I am in the same process..
No excuse where SS relocation kit ??. LOL still in need of one...
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 06:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The design on that damned relocation has changed so much over the past few weeks, it doesn't look at all the same. So far, just a bunch of scribbling as the wife has me working on the house every night after work as her parent's sold the apartment building she had been living in so I now have to get everything moved out this weekend and... I'm behind on finishing my Toxic Release Inventory and USEPA will fine the company ten grand a day if it's late... Hence, I'm still at the plant and will be until it's done. To make matters worse, we use a few different colors of paint (hundreds!) and there is no reliable cross-reference to the various part numbers...

Oh yeah, we're going 'wheeling next week and I made non-refundable hotel reservations and now I'm worried about having my work done so I can go!

I long for the day when I can spend some time in front of some machinery. I haven't forgotten you, nor Perrone. I owe you both some care packages.

Oh yeah, still need "Garage-Keepers" and commercial liability insurance, and my wife is an auto adjuster-LOL.

peace,
Paul
 

Dee
Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 06:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

No worries, Its taken me 3 months to get my diff guards completed for the D1's I made 20 sets,

Cheers

Dee

Topics | Last Day | Last Week | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Program Credits Administration