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DiscoWeb Bulletin Board » Message Archives » 2002 Archives - Technical » Discovery » Cooked it twice, fixed radiator, but still it boils" 300 tdi « Previous Next »

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Philip Le Plastrier
Posted on Thursday, June 27, 2002 - 02:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I have recently done two heads (one needed attention)replaced thermostat(3 times), cap, pulled out radiator and had it serviced, cleaned out the coolant system and last night when towing a horse float the bloody thing boiled again. Any suggestions?
 

hendrik
Posted on Thursday, June 27, 2002 - 09:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

How many miles has the engine covered without problems ?
Any changes or sevice done to it before it started getting hot ?
Thermostat put in correctly (at least to V8-ones has a vent-hole which has to be anterior I think) ?
Water pump intact (impeller disintegrated ?, I have seen a picturer of one in that state of decay. But must have been running without anti-freeze, because this also protects agains erosion from the cavitation effect) ?
What about the heater matrix. Have this checked too. There is always a water flow the the heater (You adjust the interior temperature to your need by regulating the air-flow through it with a flap). If this is blocked, I could imagine, the water flow in the primary (small) circuit and through the heads is insufficient.

good luck
 

hendrik
Posted on Thursday, June 27, 2002 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

How many miles has the engine covered without problems ?
Any changes or sevice done to it before it started getting hot ?
Thermostat put in correctly (at least to V8-ones has a vent-hole which has to be anterior I think) ?
Water pump intact (impeller disintegrated ?, I have seen a picturer of one in that state of decay. But must have been running without anti-freeze, because this also protects agains erosion from the cavitation effect) ?
What about the heater matrix. Have this checked too. There is always a water flow the the heater (You adjust the interior temperature to your need by regulating the air-flow through it with a flap). If this is blocked, I could imagine, the water flow in the primary (small) circuit and through the heads is insufficient.

good luck
 

Germ�n R. Gr�ner (Germán)
Posted on Thursday, June 27, 2002 - 09:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Philip, in this link you have some additional points to check
http://www.landyonline.co.za/techtalk/overheated_engine.htm
However, radiator may still being the problem. Are you sure it is perfect? (a friend had the same problem, with "serviced" radiator, and changed radiator and the problem was solved...
Good luck
 

Anonymous
Posted on Thursday, June 27, 2002 - 04:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If you filled the system via the radiator or header tank, I recollect the system needs to be air bled. Somewhere there is a valve to open to allow trapped air to escape and water will then circulate. If not bled the water boils because the circulation is not working. Hope someone else can give further details - I will check my workshop manual for air-bled position.
 

Philip Le Plastrier
Posted on Thursday, June 27, 2002 - 06:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks for your info. I change oil every 5,000 Km (I live in Australia) I am off road most days and always look out for associated problems. The vehicle was only back from the second head last friday so I have only done about 500 Km since then. The car has done 180,000 Km. I will change the air and oil filters today to see if that helps.
It seems the problem is only when I am towing heavy loads or going up steep hills. And it doesn't happen all the time. When it boiled two days ago I topped up the water and it was ok and has not got hot (or even moved off the normal temp) since.
I have had the radiator professionally cleaned and always run antifreeze at prescribed rates.
It may be time for the new Disco, but I hoped I would get more than 180k's out of it.
Philip
 

200 Tdi
Posted on Thursday, June 27, 2002 - 11:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Is the aircon radiator blocked and not allowing any air thru ??
Is the viscous coupling working and locking up at temperature ??

Try switching on the aircon. Does this help reduce the temperature.

John D
 

Anonymous
Posted on Friday, June 28, 2002 - 03:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Check with my w/s manual and the coolant for 300series should be go in via the filler cap in the top of the thermostat housing. If other method is used air locks will form. Check if you have a filler plug on top of the thermostat - hexagonal black 'nut'. Is you garage aware of this proceedure?
 

Philip Le Plastrier
Posted on Friday, June 28, 2002 - 07:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Again thanks for the help, I find by filling the coolant system from the filler plug at the top of the thermostat is the best way of filling, then let the car run with both filler and header tank caps off, any air that is in the system clears. Once it clears then I put the filler Screw (cap) back on and let the motor heat up with the filler cap off, then the normal running pressure of the motor pushes coolant out and the correct levels are found in the header tank. Next let the motor cool down and make sure level are correct.
So, my next check will be the viscous coupling, I don't know much about that so any info would be appreciated.
I will also check the fans in the water pump.
Philip
 

Joey
Posted on Saturday, June 29, 2002 - 02:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Do not forget to put the heater on when filling the system , as otherwise an airlock may form in there as well.
Joey
 

Anonymous
Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 06:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

viscous coupling .... I think the bolts are left hand thread! Carefull you don't snap them.

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