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Clif Ashley (Cta586)
| | Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 12:22 am: | 
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I am thinking of making a floor for my roof rack, and I have a couple of questions. I have the Expedition (La Ruta Maya '95) Rack. I would like to use expanded metal of some type. What methods do you guys have experience with as far as attaching the flooring to the rack. If I weld it, it is my understanding that I can only use aluminum? Steel would be cheaper, correct? Any other options? I am also open to using something other than expanded metal, if you have any thoughts. Thanks a lot for your input, I appreciate it. |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 12:56 am: |
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I have picked up some sheets of aluminum that I use on a Garvin Wilderness rack. It's not very thick but holds up well. I only use the sheets in a couple of places as not to block the sunroof(s). I bolted the sheets to the rack with stainless bolts. |
chrisvonc
| | Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 07:44 am: |
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My expanded metal flooring is steel. If you use aluminum, you wont be able to weld it to the rack.
Chris von C |
gp (Garrett)
| | Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 08:32 am: |
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i used diamond plate aluminum (yes you can all kiss my ass too  ) attached with stainless u-bolts facing downward. this way you can take it off if you don't like it on all the time.
worked great this past weekend when i was in WV at a mt. bike race and NO room for tents. just tossed the two man tent up there and i was king.
only issue i had was that i was about to decompress this kids chest when i overheard him say my truck looked like a Xterra. ugh.
if you would like pics let me know. |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 12:13 pm: |
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you can use about a zillion zip-ties on it and hold it down that way (expanded metal)
rd |
Eric Pena (Evalp)
| | Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 01:13 pm: |
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The besy way is to secured it with u-bolts to rack facing downward as said before. Very secure and sturdy. 2nd would be some zip-ties that are made for outdoor use so the sun and weather wont make them break. I used u-bolts and it works great with the kinfd with the diamont shapes holes in it. You can stand on it and you can still secure stuff trough the holes. |
Clif Ashley (Cta586)
| | Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 04:33 pm: |
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Thanks a lot for all your input. Yeah, Garrett, I'd love to see some pics. Thanks again. |
Glenn Guinto (Glenn)
| | Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 05:02 pm: |
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Armed with a few pointers from George S, and articles from Chris VonC, I decided to use 12 guage expanded metal. A little heavy but very sturdy. If you step between the load bars, it doesn't even bend. I think that's the minimum that they use for catwalks in industrial places. Cost me 50 bucks for an 8x4 sheet. Had it welded for 20. I didn't have it powder coated but I plan to have it done when I get money (Which is probably never). For now, rustoleum will have to do.
Here are some pics.
-glenn |
Glenn Guinto (Glenn)
| | Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 05:21 pm: |
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oopss... this one didn't post... let's try again...
-glenn |
chrisvonc
| | Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 07:46 pm: |
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You should not use zip ties on the expanded metal. The edges will cut right through them. When I picked up my sheet, I brough a boat load of those industrial strength ones and they were getting cut before I had 1/2 of the sheet secure to take home. Luckly I had brough wire and heavy duty tie downs.
I have see U-bolts used very succesfully on expanded metal flooring, and if you use some kind of mild rubber of foam padding between the sheet and ontop of the cross bars, you should have no noise.
Glen, it looks good. Remember, roller for the bulk of the painting, spray or brush for the areas the roller cant get to. Dont forget the underside too!
Chris von C |
Coppertop
| | Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 09:48 pm: |
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One of the things you need to watch about using the expanded metal is rusting. You may either want to have it powder coated or painted with a plasticizing paint to keep this from happening. What happens is when the metal rusts, it will leave lovely rust colored stripes on the paint of your rover (where the water runs down). |
Neal Glessner (Nealg)
| | Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 10:01 pm: |
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I'll probably do that to my rack also. Does the floor make any more noise? |
Glenn Guinto (Glenn)
| | Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 10:34 pm: |
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Does the floor make any more noise?" - LOL
It kinda gives it another pitch. Instead of the plain "Symphony in D Major", you get another octave in the harmony with the expanded metal...
Chris, glad you liked it... I'm thinking about using POR 15 on it sometime this summer. POR15 is the stuff that classic car restorers use to paint frames. It gives it that textured (almost plasticky) black coating and it's apparently guaranteed to stop rust. I'll report some feedback.
-glenn |
Clif Ashley (Cta586)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 02, 2002 - 12:37 am: |
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Glen, that looks like exactly what I want to do. I like it a lot. Rustoleum it will be for me too, haha. I need to do a little sanding and touching up on the rack anyways. How much does a sheet of 8 x 4 weigh? Will two people still be able to take the rack off with no problem? Thanks again guys. |
cooper
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 02, 2002 - 12:39 am: |
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Has anyone used a Rhino-type lining on a floor before. Or the kind you can buy yourself and roll on? One other thing, im about to put a floor on my rack, Wilderness Rack. Any ideas on the thickness of metal i should use and type/size bolts to secure it. Thanks. |
Glenn Guinto (Glenn)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 02, 2002 - 07:41 am: |
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Clif,
It wasn't all that heavy. And yes, two people can still lift it and mount it on your roof (or take it off). Post some pics when you're done!
-glenn |
Clif Ashley (Cta586)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 02, 2002 - 01:05 pm: |
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I've got a lot going on right now. And now am looking to pick up an ARB, and a winch. This all being funded by a part-time summer job, haha. So it may be a little while, but when I am done I will post. Thanks a lot Glenn. |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 02, 2002 - 01:13 pm: |
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Cooper. I use aluminum sheet (can't remember how thick) that' I hit with rustoleum just to give it a black look to match the rack and bolted it to the rack with 5/16" Stainless steel bolts. I didn't cover the entire floor but just in places I need to put my feet down on and place smaller stuff onto. |
cooper
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 02, 2002 - 02:31 pm: |
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thanks Al. One more question, the 5/16" bolts that you used. Did you drill new holes or use the existing holes that are already there that hold the bars together? |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 02, 2002 - 03:22 pm: |
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I put the bolts up through the middle of the 4 cross bars. You will need a SS fender washer to keep the head of the bolt from falling into the slot of the cross bars. |
Rich Lee
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 02, 2002 - 10:13 pm: |
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Here is another version of the Wilderness Rack Floor.
My neighbor and I both have fairly nice "cheap bastard" floors on our wilderness racks. Both are 1/2" exterior grade plywood with extra waterproofing, covered on top with green outdoor "grass" carpeting.
This setup gives you a level non-skid flooring that is quiet, secure and is very comfortable to lounge apon in even the hottest weather. It makes a perfect platform for a small tent, such as the REI Camp Dome and can accomodate up to 3 adults or 1 wildly romantic couple or 4 well-behaved kids. It can be easily built in 1/2 day with simple household tools and the materials cost less than $70.
First, the plywood is cut and notched so that it rests atop the front & rear bottom rails and clears the vertical braces & light mounts. It is notched a little extra on one end to make it easier to install or remove by sliding into the rack frame from above.
Second, the location of the cross braces are marked on the plywood about 4" in from the perimeter and drilled with 5/16" holes. Four more 1/4" holes are located at even intervals, about 2" inward from the front and rear bottom rails. We then pound 5/16" "T-Nuts" into the crossbar holes from the top down and 1/4" T-nuts into the end holes. Four more 1/2" holes are located atop each crossbrace down the centerline of the flooring for additional tie-down loops. With this setup all the bolts can be reached with the rack on the truck, so the flooring can be installed/removed without removing the rack.
Next, the plywood is waterproofed on both sides (it may not last forever, but at $10/sheet every 5 to 10 years, who cares). The "grass" carpet is then stretched over the edges, trimmed to fit with a 4" overlap and stapled down securely with 1/2" stainless staples. The T-Nut and center holes are then "clearanced" with a hot soldering iron and the floor is ready to bolt on.
For tie-down loops, I use 9/16" tubular Spectra webbing that is pre-sewn into 6" open "quick-draw" loops, normally used for climbing ($2.75 ea at most climbing shops). These are looped around the center of the 4 cross bars (like a girth hitch)and will stick out through the four 1/2" holes running down the center of the floor they are "bombproof", UV resistant and can be pushed down & out of the way when you want a smooth floor for sleeping, etc..
Next, lay the floor onto the rack and bolt it down. On the sides, use 1.5" grade-5 5/16" bolts with coarse thread, passed between the paired crossbars and backed with thick 1.5" dia. fender washers.
On the ends, use galvanized plumber's tape around the rack rail and bolt the floor down with 3/4"long 1/4" coarse thread bolts. Pull the 4 spectra loops through their respective holes and you are set.
Optional equipment includes either a hinged "trap door" or 1/4" plexiglass window panel over the sunroofs, golf hole cup set into the forward area (optional putting green) beach umbrella holder and 12v power supply socket (for boombox playing "Up on the roof").
It may not be as "industrial" as aluminum or extruded steel floors, but it works and makes a very inviting deck.
Enjoy,
Rich
PS. For those of you who already have metal roofs, simply cut a piece of grass carpet to fit. When you have unloaded your rack, simply roll out the "lawn" and secure it with lots of large paper clamps (the same ones you use on your seatbelts to keep them from getting stuck tight on steep hills). |
Clif Ashley (Cta586)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 02, 2002 - 10:54 pm: |
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Im definately going to need some pics of that deck, preferably while playing golf, with the umbrella up and the stereo on. |
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