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Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2002 - 10:22 am: | 
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I am going to have to do one or the other tomorrow as I didn't realize that the rear pads were gone before my last long trip. I tried to be gentle but still screwed the inside of the right rear rotor, outer surface is fine. Anyhow, my question to everyone here is/// Does anyone know the specs on the rear rotors, like, what should they mic out to? I could get a rotor today via the dealer for like 75, or save about 50 and have it turned tomorrow. Lemme know any info that you have. Later.. Robert |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2002 - 10:37 am: |
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If this is a D2 I would just replace them. The rotors aren't that thick to begin with. |
Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d)
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2002 - 11:30 am: |
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I scored the rotors on a ford and then drove another 60K miles on them no difference in braking or wear on brake pads. JMHO. |
Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2002 - 11:37 am: |
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Rover discs don't have a lot of extra meat on 'em for turning... if it's bad enough to think about taking it off and turning it, replace it.
IMHO, FWIW, YMMV......
-L |
Dee
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2002 - 01:14 pm: |
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FYI on the DII rotor Data
DII Brake pad
From the DII Factory Service Manual; Front disc min. thickness
New; 24.9 - 25.1 mm (0.980 - 0.988 in.)
Service Limit; 22.0 mm (0.866 in.)
Rear disc min. thickness
New; 12.5 - 12.7 mm (0.492 - 0.500 in.)
Service Limit; 11.7 mm (0.461 in.)
Maximum disc. runout; .15 mm (0.006 in.)
Min. Pad Thickness; 2.0 mm (0.079 in.) |
Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2002 - 01:57 pm: |
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Hello all, thanks for the suggestions, it is a 96 D1, very badly scarred. Like I said, I was far away from home and just tried to be as gentle as possible on them. Anyhow, went and bought a rotor from the stealership, although I did get a little bit of a discount, it was like $71 after tax. Looks like I'll be in for some more fun tomorrow.. Peace.. robert |
Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d)
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2002 - 03:39 pm: |
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Perhaps someone could enlighten me about this. I scored maybe 4 or 5 deep (2 mm deep) gashes on the ford rotors, when the brake pads wore to bare metal (I was young then ) The disk was a solid one. I put on new pads and drove the same car for several more years. The pads would mold themselves to the scores, and that was that.
So was I supposed to notice something bad happening after all this? |
drakosfire
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2002 - 04:34 pm: |
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Dean
Besides wearing out the pad quicker, a scored rotor would not dissipate heat as it should. This leads to warped rotors and if the heat built up is serious enough, it can cause the grease in the wheel bearings to turn to a liquid state and release themselves from the bearing. Leaving nice warm bearings and a hefty bill later. if you did not experience any of these problems, maybe you didnt pick them up or were lucky. D1, experience. |
Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d)
| | Posted on Friday, July 05, 2002 - 03:59 pm: |
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"...a scored rotor would not dissipate heat as it should."
How's that? I can see this happening if the scores were radia, but they aren't, they go round in circles, and the pads just wore in to their shape. How can that lead to heating? Ford experience (much) |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Friday, July 05, 2002 - 04:20 pm: |
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Dean, The thinner areas will heat up more than the thicker areas. The more heat the more the metal will expand and with bands of more expansion than others you'll cause the rotor to expand. Even with radial scoring. |
Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d)
| | Posted on Saturday, July 06, 2002 - 11:06 am: |
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Ok so now we're saying the rotor will heat up more, because its thinner at the scored parts. ROTFLMAO! The heat conduction is gonna take care of that miniscule effect, and the way you drive (braking down a mountain and not using engine braking) or leaving a rotor wet all night to rust after washing the buggers will have much larger effects, and can lead to warping for sure.
But thinking you need to replace a good rotor because the pads wore down to metal and scored, well that's just plain rediculous.
Dean |
Jeff Anderson (Groovydude)
| | Posted on Saturday, July 06, 2002 - 11:54 am: |
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Hmm you must wash your car/truck and let it sit for a long time for the discs to get so rusted that they would warp them or cause issues. I have some rust colored surface stains on mine but I don`t see that being a issue. You can argue with all of use here but FACT is FACT a scored rotor will lead to greater heat build up and the warping of the disc and potential wheel bearing problems. But you believe what you want ok. |
Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d)
| | Posted on Sunday, July 07, 2002 - 10:58 am: |
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Ok I'm not putting forward any thoughts or guesses, I'm jut reporting that I scored the hell out of my rotors and then drove on them for another 5 years before the car was sold, and it was still in perfect working order. That's all. Just a FACT, which I hope someone may find useful. |
Kyle
| | Posted on Sunday, July 07, 2002 - 11:09 am: |
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Dean , perhaps I got what you are looking for. Both our trucks have scored rotors on them and they are fine. For all the others here posting I will throw in a twist that I think Dean can understand. I rottor with grooves in it actually will stop the vehicle better and can cause some pulling. Thats about the only real world side affect that you are gonna see from it..
Kyle |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Sunday, July 07, 2002 - 11:24 am: |
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Okay, back to the original question and the facts. The Disco II's rotors even scored can wear down 3mm up front and 1mm in the rear from new. There isn't enough meat on the rotors to turn them so either way you should just replace the rotor. Not to mention that many states that have safety inspections will fail a car with bad rotors. Can you drive with bad rotors? Sure. Would I take a chance with bad brakes and risk my life or that of my family or the life of the others on the road? No. So it's up to you. |
Kingfish (Kingfish)
| | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 08:28 am: |
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Robert, did you mention that you bought A rotor from the dealer? They need to be replaced in pairs. |
Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
| | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 08:42 am: |
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I did only replace the ONE rotor. What problems could arise from that? I've never heard of that. Anyhow, I guess I had better go to work now.. Peace.. RS |
Kingfish (Kingfish)
| | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 11:06 am: |
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I don't think you'll go to hell for replacing just one, but every repair manual tells you to always replace in pairs. Speaking of which, I replaced my rear rotors on a BMW this past Sat. and the "instruction" pamphlet specifically said that rotors MUST be replaced in pairs. It's your truck, do what you want. |
Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
| | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 12:25 pm: |
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Yeah, didn't think I'd go to hell for replacing just one, but just wasn't sure. It's all the other things that I do that will land me down there in the fiery pits. Oh well, have a good one.. RS |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 12:50 pm: |
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It's not just BMW repair manuals but Land Rover Manuals also say rotors and Pads MUST be replaced in pairs.
Kingfish, what's your Bimmer? |
Kingfish (Kingfish)
| | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 02:09 pm: |
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M3. If I recall, you have a BMW also. Check out Eurasian auto for parts. I got some nice zimmerman rear rotors for $40 each and Pagid pads for $35. A lot cheaper than most car parts. |
Kyle
| | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 02:32 pm: |
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Al , I have been a mechanic for some time. You know , the guys that actually work on he cars ? Not the guys that print or write the manuals ? I was giving you facts.... If you wanted optimal braking at all times you would have to change everything weekly as thats about how long it takes to start degrading from new. They also degrade at differnt rates front to rear side to side.... And as far as "The original question" we were addressing that. Addressing the fact that he may be just wasting money... Did you ride with both the scored rotor and the new one Robert ? Notice any difference ?
Kyle |
p m
| | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 03:08 pm: |
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Dean,
the problem with grooved rotors is that it is difficult to get two on the same axle grooved in the same way (though i managed to do exactly that on my jeep). the grooved one will cause a pull to its side ('cause just like kyle's said, it will brake better).
the grooved rear rotor on a disco isn't too bad. push comes to shove, you can drive it for another set of pads' life.
peter |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 03:13 pm: |
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Kyle... I didn't want to ruffle any feathers. I'm just going by what I have read and what I know. Not that a Land Rover is a "performance car" but most tracks, auto crosses and state inspections will not allow you to drive with groved rotors. The fact that one rotor is groved and gives you more surface area and brakes better can be a real problem. As a mechanic you can appreciate the dynamics of what happens in the brakes and tires when you brake into a turn. |
Kingfish (Kingfish)
| | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 03:31 pm: |
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Since we're on the subject, what happens if you replace rotors, but keep the original pads, which are still good? |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 03:46 pm: |
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>"Since we're on the subject, what happens if you replace rotors, but keep the original pads, which are still good?"
the original pads keep doin their job.
you should also replace tires in pairs or better yet in full sets, but it's not like all 4 won't roll down the road if you replace just one or two or three...
the people pushing for replacing in pairs are frequently the people selling in pairs... |
Kyle
| | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 04:49 pm: |
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Thank you blue. I am simply stressing the fact that a groovedRotor is not a "Fix now or else" type item. It will do its job just fine till you can comfortably get round to it... Unless ofourse you drove for a month metal to metal and the Rotor is the thickness of paper..
Kyle |
Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
| | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 06:32 pm: |
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Hola Kyle, I was about 500 miles away from home, and the right rear was metal to metal. I had never checked the rear pads, why, the only reasonable answer I have is that it didn't cross my mind b/c I'm a retard. Anyhow, the inside of the right rear had Very Deep grooves. I have not noticed one bit of difference in my stopping ability other than there is no grindage from the metal to metal combo. I can see the others points as for replacing both if perhaps I was driving a Lotus or something, but I usually just putt around town here or am doing the massive interstate trips.. Later all.. |
kyle
| | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 08:34 pm: |
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Exactly , lets face it , you aint getting any performance anyway . I am not saying drive a hunk of shit around. ( I have been known to do it). Just saying that you shouldnt buy the sales routine that so many service writers (professional bullshitters) are spinning.... Our whole fucking world these days is all about "What can you sell" ,up to and including ones self.....
Kyle |
JB
| | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 08:36 pm: |
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My last rotors were so lipped and grooved I had to shave and file my brake pads to get them to seat properly against the rotor lips ( Always wear a mask when working with that brake dust) . I ran those pads for 15K till the brake pad metal backing was actually grinding the rotors flat again. Then I paid $120 for 2 new rear rotors and a pad set from Atlantic Brittish - or was it British Pacific. I could not tell a difference in braking bewteen old and new, just no more grinding sound. I also repacked the rear wheel bearings but that was just for sh'ts and grins. |
Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
| | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 10:18 pm: |
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Here is a hunk of crap I drove around for a bit, but none the less it was lovely and quite the conversation piece (piece of sh(*) more like it, but still yet.... |
kyle
| | Posted on Monday, July 08, 2002 - 10:21 pm: |
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Man , I dig those,,,"The THING!!" LOL
Kyle |
Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2002 - 06:58 am: |
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God! At first that looked like a matchbox car taken with a macro lens! LOL |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2002 - 12:41 pm: |
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yeah, that THing does look fake. I'm waitin for Gumby to walk into the picture...dammit
another thing about your scored rotors...it's not like you're going to do any more damage to them, so as long as the car stops when you push the big pedal, why not get some more life out of them? |
Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2002 - 12:46 pm: |
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Just another picture to let you know that the THING was for real. On note of the original subject of this posting...I thought that since it was So Badly scarred that it would rip through a set of new pads, thus, it has been replaced, it is in the past now, can't go back and change what I've done, etc... |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2002 - 12:49 pm: |
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it looks even more fake from that angle!!! Need something for scale, like a penny or a thimble. |
Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2002 - 12:55 pm: |
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Sorry Blue, but the THING is no more. I sold it back around November of last year to a guy up in Michigan. That is the only evidence I have left of it. I Will own one in better shape later down the line. The rust on the THING made the Rover rust seem like just dirt. I had no rear floor pan (especially underneath the battery), and you could see through the rockers to the outside. But, started up every time and had a great heater. Other than that, probably the most dangerous vehicle on the road b/c it was literally falling apart. I about bought a sticker that said "Honk if something falls off my THING"..really, at www.thethingshop.com Later.. Rob S |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2002 - 01:30 pm: |
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 |
gp (Garrett)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2002 - 01:35 pm: |
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damn that's good. i think mr. peanut needs to make a visit to this family. |
Kingfish (Kingfish)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2002 - 01:41 pm: |
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Robert, was that a '74? I had a '71 conv bug and I went through 3 floors with it. It had rust in places you wouldnt imagine. It was a looker, though. |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2002 - 02:20 pm: |
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Pokey's talkin about rotors, not rotos. He ain't too bright. Gumby could kick Mr. Peanut's ass. My Dad and I were always looking for a Thing to use on the old farm, but everyThing we looked at (in northwestern NY) had no floor. |
Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 09, 2002 - 02:47 pm: |
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Dang Blue, that was awesome. Wish I knew how to use that photoshop stuff. Absolutely great work my friend. Perhaps this thread has moved from Technical discussions to general don't ya think? And Kingfish, it was a '73 model, and yes, rust pretty much anywhere you could ever think of looking to find it,, Blue just made my day. Later.. Robert |
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