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bryan
Posted on Friday, July 05, 2002 - 11:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Have an interesting problem: The other day my 95 D1 (110K) started to idle very rough before it died on me. I got it started again, but it continued to idle very rough. Eventually I got it moving, but it had very limited power when pushing the gas. I started pulling a hill and it lost all power and died again. Got it started once more, but it died on me every time I put it in gear and tried to pull the hill. Ended up having it towed to a local garage. Here's what they've checked so far: fuel pressure (perfect, I just installed a new pump 3 months ago), MAS (gunked up with oil from the K&N filter, so they cleaned it), stepper (working fine). I've read all the archives regarding rough idle, most point to the stepper or fuel pump. Anyone out there had a similar problem, or have any suggestions on what to check next? TIA, Bryan
 

Kyle
Posted on Friday, July 05, 2002 - 11:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

That sounds alot like a maf or a broken seal from the maf to the engine..... Ofcourse , youa re there and I am here... :)

Kyle
 

bryan
Posted on Friday, July 05, 2002 - 11:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks Kyle. To quote the great Rodger Waters "How I wish you were here". Any way to nail down whether or not the MAF is shot (Nathan told me they aren't cheap)? You wouldn't happen to be visting the pacific northwest soon, would you?
 

kyle
Posted on Friday, July 05, 2002 - 11:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

lol ,not this week anyway... But there has to be some boys up there that can certainly put their MAF on there to test it. Also check the tube and the clamps on the hose going from the MAF to the engine for leaks. Sometimes under load (Going up hill) the engine will torque up a little and open a crack.. this is all just guessing ofcourse.

Kyle
 

bryan
Posted on Saturday, July 06, 2002 - 12:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The dealership is a few hours away, but I'm trying to avoid taking it there. The last time I spoke with them they quoted me $550 and 2.5 hours to change out a fuel pump. Did it myself in less than 1 hour for $190 (Thanks again, Nathan!!!).
With regards to "Sometimes under load (Going up hill) the engine will torque up a little and open a crack.." the problem is still showing up while in the shop.
 

jp
Posted on Saturday, July 06, 2002 - 04:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If not ignition, fuel pressure regulator? Is it going lean, or rich - smoke out the back=rich? Is the pressure still good? Did you change the fuel filter as well as the pump? Sometimes the wiring to the pump goes bad due to corrosion, dry solder joints etc - BTDT. Fuel pump relay ok? Pressure doesnt have to drop much to give you this sort of problem.
How did they clean the maf wire?? I hear they are only 0.003" so fragile. How do you get at it?
jp
 

bryan
Posted on Saturday, July 06, 2002 - 10:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The local guy said it's running a tad rich. I changed the fuel filter November 2001. Don't know about that MAF wire..how they cleaned it or how they got to it. I should have mentioned in my original post, I'm not getting any code faults, check engine or service engine lights. I thought a code would register if the MAF was bad. Am I correct here?
 

Moe (Moe)
Posted on Saturday, July 06, 2002 - 12:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Bryan, I had very similar symptoms after going overboard on an engine clean. It felt like the fuel pump was failing but the pressure was fine. The plugs showed signs of running too rich. I ended up pulling most sensor connections around the engine bay (including ECU), spraying with electical cleaner and let all dry. Problem went away. I suspect water was messing with a connection such as MAF or water temp sendor?

Take Kyle's advice and borrow a MAF from someone local--the exchange is 5 mins. My '96 is in Seattle if that will help.
 

bryan
Posted on Sunday, July 07, 2002 - 02:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks Matt, the only problem is I'm near Spokane. Do you have any rover connections in my neck of the woods?
 

bryan
Posted on Sunday, July 07, 2002 - 02:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

More questions Matt. I did wash the rig the night before (hood closed, but I made it a point to spray out the radiator well). Is the ECU housed inside the cab on a 95? If not, where do I find it?
 

jp
Posted on Sunday, July 07, 2002 - 02:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

In non-US cars the maf is in the RH A pillar base - under panel by pax feet, quite high up (well, 1 foot above the floor in mine). Difficult to get wet I think.
jp
 

Moe (Moe)
Posted on Sunday, July 07, 2002 - 11:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Bryan sorry I don't know anyone in the area but I think there is a chapter of Pacific Coast Rover Club out in Spokane. That might be a good place to start.

It looks like jp knows the location of your ECU. If you were spraying directly into the radiator, the water could have messed with the sensors that I mentioned. I would begin by cleaning the connections and then move to more expensive solutions.

Report back whatever you find.
 

bryan
Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2002 - 01:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks Kyle, JP and Moe for all your insight with this post. The good news....the problem is solved, a defective rotor arm (7 months old Beck Arnley) which was arcing down the shaft it sits on, instead of to the dizzy cap points. The bad....3 hours of shop time, new plugs, and an injector cleaning (grand total $241.00). Kind of sucks considering I changed the rotor arm myself in December. Never would I have imagined that it would wear out in less than a year, or I would have checked it before heading to the shop. Bottom line, I'm sending my Beck parts to Kyle so he can toss them out his window. The life time replacement warranty has now cost me an extra $240.
 

jp
Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2002 - 02:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I once had a Rover sedan with the 3.5 V8. Got lovely new Plug leads from an auto accessory company that I did software work for. 3 months later I got a misfire. Spent hours looking for it - dismissed leads as problem , they are new. Plugs, rotor, cap etc etc. Still misfiring.
Went back to the company to do more work one day, saw them boxing up the same make of leads I had bought. 'Whats going on ?' I asked. 'Oh, we got a lot of complaints about misfiring due to corrosion on the ends, we are returning them'.

Dont ever assume that anything new CANNOT be bad!
jp

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