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bryan
Posted on Wednesday, July 10, 2002 - 03:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Should a rotor arm last longer than 7 months/10K miles? I replaced cap/rotor/plugs/wires on my 95 DI at 100K in December. The local (non-rover) shop which is working on solving my problems listed here ../2/6041.html"#444444">
 

Dee
Posted on Wednesday, July 10, 2002 - 07:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Maybee excessive mositure, Are the Beck Arnley the POS blue ones with the aluminum contacts on the cap? Spend a bit more and get the genuine ones. Black with copper posts
 

bryan
Posted on Wednesday, July 10, 2002 - 07:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks for the response Dee. Yes, the cap is the blue version. What is the difference between the two other than the Al/Cu contacts? Do Cu contacts react better with the rotor than the Al type? The shop said the cap still looks good.
 

Dee
Posted on Wednesday, July 10, 2002 - 08:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Well bottom line the Blue ones are crap !!! I had so many problems with them ove rthe years, Alu is not a good conductor of elec. stick with the stock ones, Beck Arnely products are mostly crap,

I asked Nathan to stop selling them, I dont know if he did i am no longer there. Ask Neal Glessner his opinion on those Blue Ones

Shop around in your area if you can find the hard black or orange caps with copper contacts go with them..

Your mechanic may like the B/A but a lifetime warranty is BS, if it sucks it sucks and it will not change just because it has a free replacement warranty.

I am sure ill get flamed for this one.

If needed email me and i can get you a good cap and rotor

Dee
[email protected]
 

Mike B.
Posted on Wednesday, July 10, 2002 - 09:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You call them like you see them. I can respect that! I think we all can.

Thanks,
Mike B.
 

Henry Enriquez (Discoinla)
Posted on Wednesday, July 10, 2002 - 11:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hmmm...I'm almost temped to agree w/ the A/B cap is crap (hehe...i rhymed). I decided to perform a tune up on my Disco I before an out of state trip, and used the A/B cap (along w/ replacing the rotor, wires, and plugs). Well, that's when all my troubles began. Rough idle, stalling, etc. I tried replacing it w/ the original cap, but to no avail. Anyway, just my 2 cents. BTW, how can I tell if the stepper motor is good or defective?
 

Dee
Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 12:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Henry at least in your case a sub standard cap and rotor is not the fault. The POS older Lucas electrics is a real PIA to find the faults.

On my 88 RR i caved in and changed the whole system and the fault was a correded wire to the coil an expensive aw shit. it did run much better

Another point i see alot of people putting the incrrect plugs in the LR, I have tried and tested all the brands, For me i like the BOSCH SINGLE electrode Platiums not the dual or 4, IMO there an over kill and not worth the $$$, also get the correct heat range and set the correct gap. Most Bone heads at the part stores will sell you the wrong plug.

Plug wires is another one, the POS cheepies like champions and Autolites or Belkins will not hold up. Get a good quality set of 8.5 MM like MSD or MagnaCores dont waste your money on Jacobs or Nology high tech glow in the dark BS plug wires. Jegs and Summit have good prices on the MSD.

Also the coil most people pass that one off, If you have a high miler and still have the orginal coil get a new ((LR Genuine Coil)) it does not have to be from the dealer,, The POS cheppies like Beck Arnleys will allow mositure in and corrode.

The steper motors if its the older 3.5 / 3.9 theres a GM part that will fit serch the archives i dont have the part number. Most of those are very dirty you can pull it and clean but the GM ones are lik 30 bucks at NAPA.

I had a shop check out the rough idle the idiot changed the Fuel Pump the Filter still it had a rough idle @ $500.00 later and would stall if it idled too long, Cause was a very worn out timing gear set, I replaced it with a Cloyes double roller. Now after that was done the head gasket went

Best bet is to follow the trouble shooting steps in the LR factory manual or use the Haynes i now use www.alldatadiy.com but i dont belive it covers the older RRC or Discos

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