| Author |
Message |
    
ccdm3
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 12:25 am: | 
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I began installing my new OME suspension today and...EVERY shock bolt is siezed! I spent 3 hours on 1 shock. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Chad |
Clif Ashley (Cta586)
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 12:33 am: |
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Use a propane torch, hold it on there for a minute or two, until its nice and red hot and they should come right off. Becareful not to use to much force, you can break the studs. |
Jeff Anderson (Groovydude)
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 12:33 am: |
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You can try to heat the bolts with a Torch to loosen them, wack the bolts with a hammer to loosen the crap in the threads (just dont mushroom the bottom of the bolt or fk-up the threads), or put alot of PENITRATION fluid on them and let them rest over night (don`t use WD40 or Liquid wrench use a industrial Penitration fluid). Just a few ideas. |
Ho Chung (Ho)
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 01:01 am: |
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have you tried a pipe wrench?  |
hendrik
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 02:11 am: |
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There is a method I use on drive shaft nuts if they really resist:
you can try to take a thin chisel and put it on the nut (parallel to and between two of its edges) and give a few sharp blows with a hammer.
Either you create a deep "scratch" (or kerb ?, excuse my english please) which "widens" the nut enough to looses the threads a bit - often it can be turned then with a wrench.
Or you have succeded and cut through the nut (don´t have to drive the chisel as far as to the bolt for that) and then voilá ..
(could be that this is more difficult on the shocks because the rubber bushings, but I think it works(I have done it) at least on the front shock´s lower nut).
Hendrik |
ccdm3
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 11:20 am: |
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OK I dumped liquid wrench on them (before I read above post) let it set for a few hours and nothing. I went to work on the rear while letting the front soak, and I got one to turn but with a ton of force. I am now afraid that the stud is moving and not the nut! About the torch concept...can I just use one of those little hand held jobs from Sears? (the cheap ones) How long should I heat it for? Ho..yes I tried a pipe wrench. The shock body is not moving, but neither is the nut! Thanks for the suggestions.
Chad |
Greg P. (Gparrish)
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 11:41 am: |
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Okay, I don't know if the DI shock mounts are like DII mounts, but the nut is welded to the mount on a DII and you turn the bolt. Is a DI not the same? |
Clif Ashley (Cta586)
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 12:07 pm: |
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Yes, you can use a cheap torch. I forgot to mention that the bushings will probably catch on fire. It is comprable to a marshmellow for your s'mores cathincg fire, just blow it out. A minute or two should do it, it will literally turn red hot. Thanks |
ccdm3
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 12:41 pm: |
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I will give it a try...thanks
Chad |
Ron Ward (Ronward)
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 01:58 pm: |
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Hey Chad? Careful not to ignite the ABS sensor line that runs right next to the lower shock mount on the front for a D1.
Also, try this if you are replacing the shocks. Put a spanner on the lower nut and have someone hold it there just so it won't fall off. Take a pipe wrench or a curved jaw vice grips and grip the body of the shock. Try and turn the shock body while the nut is held still by the spanner attached to it. You'll muck up the shock body, but it will give eventually.
Good luck. |
Greg Davis
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 03:01 pm: |
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Greg P. the DSI's use stud mounts. Basically the shaft of the shock is threaded and the nut threads directly onto the shaft. They are a real PITA once they rust 'cause the shaft will just turn with the nut. |
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