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Neil Flanagan (Electriceel)
Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 11:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

While swapping out my brakelines for stainless steel ones, the threads from the valve brake(the brass junction block that holds and splits the lines to eack side of the axel) backed out with the line.

Not a big deal you would think, right?

I call the dealer to see if they have on in stock. No. They call around to track one down. No. They call LRUK. The bin is empty and they haven't put an order in to restock. GREAT.

Still not convinced, I call a more dependable source(Nathan), he confirms this with his suppliers. The part won't be available till SEPTEMBER. Fanfuckintastic.

Realizing I'm screwed, I take it to a machine shop to have it rethreaded. It sorta worked however there still remains a leak, which would probably worsen as pressure builds in the lines.

Question. Anyone have any experience with thread sealants? Loctite in particular. Think this is a wise choice? Any other options out there? Anyone have a spare valve brake, LR part # ANR3194?

Neil Flanagan
94 D90 #1092
97 Disco (which may be sittinr in the driveway till September)
 

John C.
Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 11:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Neil, try Aaron Auto (www.aaronauto.com), Rover Cannibal (just be careful), etc.. they might have a DI they are parting out.

Good luck,

John
 

Dee
Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 01:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

For medium pressure situation helicoils should not leak, If that is what was used. But with that thin brass housing who knows? When they drilled it out maybe they damage the seat at the bottom that is what really seals the line.

Or for a replacement call yourself to several of the UK salvage yards or one of the UK types here can advise. Nathan's sources will only fill what's on the shelf

You can try flowing some silver in the threads not sure if it will stick to the SS inserts I did it with carbon steel ones, but it most likely will be a temporary fix. If you don't have a micro torch forget it you will melt the block.. Yes I have done it to similar hyd valves so pardon the pun don't flame me

Its a 3 way block look at a speed shop or try online sources like http://www.jegs.com/
I did a quick search there and it looks like there may be a solution you can call them directly great customer service.

Last resort try some of the bone yards for the part. Also I believe a similar block is used on some other type small PU and 4X4
 

Neil Flanagan (Electriceel)
Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 11:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The seat doesn't apear to be damaged. Loctite makes some pretty amazing stuff. I'm gonna first try the thread sealer route.

It is actually a 4 block fitting. Jegs does have a fitting, howewer in speaking to Jegs CS, it doesnt appear to be a solution as the solid line connection is smaller than the braided end.

I've found a few yards with the part and will go with that if the thread sealer fails.

Any idea what actually goes on inside the brake valve? Is it just a junction block? Is it possible to just connect the braided line to the solid line?
 

Dee
Posted on Friday, July 12, 2002 - 12:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I may be wrong but i think that rear block lowers the pressure?
 

hendrik
Posted on Friday, July 12, 2002 - 05:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If we are talking about the same then this is a matter of several hundreds ´bar´ (even more in ´psi´ rating) of pressure when braking.
Besides: The round cylinder on the inner wheel arch in the engine bay (1"diameter and 2" long about) reduces the brake pressure to the rear axle. In normal conditions you mainly brake with the front wheels because the rears stabilize the vehicle (when locking would occur on the rear wheels first you would turn. Same counts for a flat - one on front axle is no problem, one on the rear pushes adrenalin levels up).

The brass block on the axle is no valve. It only is a "one in" into "two out" thing with a t-shape inner bore.
I wouldn´t want to have the brass block rethreaded. But I never experienced problems about availability. They are found on just every LandRover that left the factory.
LR has two versions, one with imperial thread, one metric. The metric (certainly found on your Disco) has a "M" cast on it. One can try to fasten a metric brake nipple/line into a imperial brass block I think, but it is a loose fit and you will ruin the thread of the softer metal if you go on tightening)(Ok, this is not your problem..unless you get a older imperial one from the junk yard..). I am surprised that the brass block has suffered. Usually the brake lines can be removed without damage on much older rigs.
Still, it is not the thread that seals, it is the cone on the brake line end itself. And I doubt that locktite stands a chance.
And it is not necessary to tighten the brake line very much. The recommended torque steeings are rather low. Especially with stainless-s-brake lines, cause (at least with the ones I got) the stainless counts for the hose (the teflon tube is protected by a s/s tissue) but the threaded ends are aluminium and relatively soft so it is important to watch for this.

much writing .. little contents.
Just change the brass block and discard the faulty one. No alternative really. Every time you try to seal it is a hassle and brake fluid dropping everywhere and air in the brake line,..

regards,
Hendrik
 

Bill Bettridge (Billb)
Posted on Friday, July 12, 2002 - 10:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Neil - did the same thing on mine so I feel for you - the thread size is metric 10x1mm, so isn't the easiest to find in the US.

If you can find it in a junkyard - try to get it with the lines still attached so you can ease out the old parts while on the bench.

Good luck
Bill
 

Kyle
Posted on Friday, July 12, 2002 - 10:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Look in the for sale section ,Mike Mc Caig has some wrecked Discos in VA he parts out. You might be able to get his contact info from John at Rovertym..

Kyle
 

hendri
Posted on Friday, July 12, 2002 - 01:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I forgot about the ABS-vehicles. They have a different brass block, of course. ("two in" to "two out" without connection between the circuits).
 

a different edh
Posted on Friday, July 12, 2002 - 08:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I have one sitting in my garage contact me if you still need it . Block for rear axle 2in 2 out came off a 97 disco .
ED H

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