| Author |
Message |
    
murray
| | Posted on Sunday, July 14, 2002 - 05:19 pm: | 
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has anyone pulled the carpet out and put something different in there? i am thinking about pulled out the carpet and putting some of that spray bedliner inside... can someone give me some pointers on this ... or reasons to do or not to do this..thanks
murray |
Carter Simcoe (Carter)
| | Posted on Sunday, July 14, 2002 - 08:20 pm: |
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I know a guy that did it in a CJ-7, its gonna make it quite a bit more noisy. There is a layer of sound proofing material beneath the carpet that you would have to remove as well, it could very well have wires running under it too but I am not sure. |
M. K. Watson (Lrover94)
| | Posted on Sunday, July 14, 2002 - 09:07 pm: |
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murray,
i will be doing that very thing in sept. if you can hold off (and anyone else) i will get pics of the process and let you know how it goes. it is not actually Rhino Lining, but a similar process. it will be sprayed on and not rolled on. anyways i will let everyone know how it goes.
mike w |
Clif Ashley (Cta586)
| | Posted on Sunday, July 14, 2002 - 09:18 pm: |
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I know a guy that did it succesfully here in KC. He moved his computer into the center console and his CD player into the glove box. If you are going through the process I would highly reccomend that, because if you are planning on taking on that much water, those two would be toast anyways, as well as having those wires exposed under the carpet you would have to move them anyways. |
M. K. Watson (Lrover94)
| | Posted on Sunday, July 14, 2002 - 09:25 pm: |
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thanks clif,
mike w |
Greg French
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 16, 2002 - 11:17 pm: |
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Rustoleum makes a truck bed liner kit that it great! It is a roll/Brush-on, so not as messy ast spray-on.
I just re-did my roof rack with it today. It is around $90.00 at Lowes, but you get a lot with it. It makes a gallon of the stuff (You mix 2 liquids together)
I'll let you know how it holds up if you can wait. |
murray
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 17, 2002 - 09:23 pm: |
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cool cool .. thanks for the replys...
murray |
Dave M.
| | Posted on Thursday, July 18, 2002 - 08:31 am: |
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I'm planning to do that in the Trooper I'm getting. I'll probably do it myself though, not have it sprayed in.
Pull all the seats, pull the carpet, clean up the floor, reposition anything that's in the way, then roll it out!
Of course, I'm talking about a $500-$1k beater, not a Disco. I doubt I'll do it in my Disco when that day comes. |
Marc
| | Posted on Thursday, July 18, 2002 - 08:44 am: |
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I did it in my disco and put the padding and carpet back in
had some pretty good surface rust in there, this way I never have to worry about it again
I used Herculiner - I think it is probably the toughest DIY available |
Jeff
| | Posted on Thursday, July 18, 2002 - 10:29 am: |
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Murray
Hey, Im the guy from KC who did it. I used a Bondo kit that was only $60 and had enough to do from the front foot wells all the way to the back door.
I am happy with the product. My opionion is to add the pint of sand that they suggest, I didn't read that till I had just mixed the two parts and had no sand on hand. Also, I would add some flat paint to the mix (think about removing an equal part of the paint from the kit as you are going to add, IF the paint in the kit isn't some special formula). The finish is pretty shiny, if it matters to you.
I haven't seen one of those Herculiner kits installed but it appears to be just one part. I wonder, Marc, is the stuff pretty gooye? This Bondo stuff was really think and I know its not going to chip, and for a do it yourself kit I think it is darn scratch resistant.
I still haven't put the rear seats and padding, carpet in. I think I am going to pick up some different insulation (that doesn't soak up water) and rubber mat this weekend and just put that in. I seem to get the darn thing wet inside a couple times a year and that thick foam stuff just holds too much water.
Another piece of input is to cut the front insulation down the length of the transmission tunnel on each side. This allows you to remove the insulation when you get it real wet like I was mentioning above and letting that insulation dry out and really being able to clean the floor boards out. I reused the front insulation just because it gets so hot from the firewall and tunnel that you just cant beat the foam stuff without spending a ton of money. I also neatly snipped the carpet where it connects under the console so that the carpet could be removed easily to dry and clean.
Sorry for the length, I haven't finished the job yet and I have had lots of time to think about it as I am never home. Furthermore, treat that rust properly. I used a wire brush on the rusty spots and then sprayed them with the rust inhibitor. Its a clear laquer looking stuff. I also used sand paper and scratched up the entire surface that was to be painted. Then I washed it out with a light soap water.
There are a few drain whole plugs in the front foot wells, and lots of them in the rear. I took them all out, I didn't know how well the paint would stay on the plastic. I still have to replace some of them as I destroyed a few of the small ones to get them out.
If its not obvious, you have to take out the ENTIRE enterior. Plan ahead, as I found that I did not have a torks big enough to take the rear seat belt anchors out after I had no drivers seat and no one was home to run me to the hardware store. I did move the computer under the console, I figure if I have taken on enough water to get up to the window switches then I will have a few other things to worry about first. I also am moving the CD changer to the glove box, nothing as nerve racking as sitting stuck in a mud puddle and worring about the $300 you have sitting under each seat. It was easy to move the wiring for each, they are each plenty long enough.
If you have any questions let me know. |
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