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mathew
Posted on Thursday, July 18, 2002 - 12:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Purchased a 95 Disco about 8 months ago. To this point, my hands are still bleeding from constant repair. I still have the proverbial whine in the T-box and clunk in shifting. I now have what seems to be a warp in the right exhaust flange where it bolts to the manifold, and a need for new brake pads. How 'bout that exhaust flange...any ideas. Haven't done a brake job on this animal...I assume it is relatively simple. Love that Disco...just need encouragement. By the way, today the door latch on the passenger side is sticking. The mechanism does not release..Help!!
 

Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Posted on Thursday, July 18, 2002 - 01:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

"It's never over in a Rover" is on SO many levels....

Yes, the brakes are easy. For just pads, you pull the pins, pull out the old pads, compress the pistons, drop in the new pads, and put the retaining pins in.

On the exhaust: you mean where the manifold and the down-pipe meet? There's a gasket for that spot, that it isn't uncommon to leak... I haven't seen one "warped", though....

Door latches... PB Blaster. :)

Good luck,

-L
 

Matt Marshall (Matthew)
Posted on Thursday, July 18, 2002 - 03:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Leslie,

Thanks for the info. Pads sound easy. The leak is in the downpipe where the flange bolts to the exhaust manifold. I have replaced the gasket on a couple of occasions and it only lasts briefly (day or two). I checked to see if I had a motor mount problem and maybe the engine torq was jacking with me. No problem there (as if they have enough torq to create a problem.) It appears someone at somepoint welded on the downpipe just below the flange. I am guessing they had the downpipe off and didn't get the flange back straight when welding.

Bring me up to speed! PB Blaster?
 

Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Posted on Thursday, July 18, 2002 - 04:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

PB Blaster is a penetrant.... puts WD-40 to shame for getting stuck things to break loose.... it's not a lubricant, or a water disperser the way WD-40 is, WD-40 is a bit of more universal in use.

WD-40 would work fine here, but, what I would suggest, is to use PB Blaster to free it up, then maybe followed by WD-40 or 3-in-1 oil to lube it a bit.

Good luck with the exhaust, sounds like the downpipe might need to be replaced.

Hang in there!

-L
 

Matt Marshall (Matthew)
Posted on Thursday, July 18, 2002 - 04:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I'm with the program now. Thanks for the suggestions.
 

derek (Vortrex)
Posted on Thursday, July 18, 2002 - 04:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I think the "clunk" is "normal", my '95 does it also.

as far as the door lever not opening the door, my '95 also did this. there is an adjustment which needs to be made to the latch. pop the door panel off and there is a vertical rod with threads on the end which activates the latch. you need to shorten (tighten) this up, just twist it a few times.
 

Matt Marshall (Matthew)
Posted on Thursday, July 18, 2002 - 05:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I believe you must be exactly on. If I trip the catch with the door open, and pull the handle, I can see the the catch mechanism does not quite release. I'm guessing I will need some need clips in hand before popping off the door panel?
 

derek (Vortrex)
Posted on Thursday, July 18, 2002 - 05:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I would spend the money and just get a door trim removal tool, much easier to get the door panel off without any damage. I think mine was $10, get it at any chain auto parts store.
 

derek (Vortrex)
Posted on Thursday, July 18, 2002 - 06:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

also, there was a post on this before, when I did it. someone had a picture showing a diagram of the rod and such. I cannot find it with the search, but you might want to try.
 

Matt Marshall (Matthew)
Posted on Friday, July 19, 2002 - 10:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

FYI...Thanks for all the good information. I am now qualified on this particular subject. I just popped the door panels off and peeled back the moisture barrier. The adjustment rod coming down from the outside door handle needed about 6-7 revolutions to shorten the linkage. Been there done that...bought the T-shirt. Very simple operation. Thanks again for the info!!!

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