| Author |
Message |
    
Will
| | Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2002 - 03:15 pm: | 
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I just upgraded my stock sound system in my D2 by adding a single 10W6 subwoofer running off of a monoblock 500W amplifier, and I believe I need more juice for my car to draw from. I have some ideas as to what I can do in order to solve my problem. I was thinking of just putting in a high performance battery such as an optima yellow or red top. Also I was thinking of possible upgrading something such as the alternator, or just getting a specific audio battery. Does anybody have any suggestions as to what I should do? Thanks. |
JRoc
| | Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2002 - 03:25 pm: |
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High Output Alternator |
Craig Kobayashi (Koby)
| | Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2002 - 04:04 pm: |
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Heavy duty alternator is the solution, but what is leading you to believe that you need more power? Headlights dimming when the sub is hitting?
I'm running a 700W 5-channel and have experienced no symptoms of too much electrical system draw. |
DChrismon
| | Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2002 - 06:55 pm: |
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I had wanted to upgrade my OEM speakers to after market on my 98 Disco but the only thing I could do according to Best Buy was replace the rear speakers. I have also encountered many audio places don't even want to mess with the LR. Could you give me some pointers to get better sound than what I have. FYI I have the Rockford Fosgates in the rear that is the only upgrade that has been done. |
Bill Molnar (Circekat)
| | Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2002 - 07:49 pm: |
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Best thing to do is remove the cover on a speaker and look at it. Both front door and rear pillar speakers were 6 inch on my 94, and the ones on my 98 look very close to being the same. All it took was a phillips screwdriver. I replaced the ones on the 94 with new Pioneer speakers (cb, thats me!) and adjusted the bass/treble to compensate for the change. No problems at all. I didn't even touch the woofers.
FWIW
Bill M. |
Bruce
| | Posted on Monday, July 22, 2002 - 12:31 pm: |
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Running that 500W amplifier alone, assuming it's the RMS factor, you are going require 75ampres from your altenator, that is ONLY for your new amplifier- DUDE WHY 500 ???. Combine that with the stock amplifier, and I am sure your alternator is not capable of providing the juice and that does not even include other electronic draws from the vehicle. Yes, alternatives above are good, but you may also want to consider a capacitor between Amp and Battery.
500 W... Unless you are in some type of high-end competition, which based on your question, you are not, then 500? Power is not linear with quality.
Do yourself a favor and call Crutchfield. |
Will
| | Posted on Monday, July 22, 2002 - 02:39 pm: |
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nonononono I am very much into quality car audio and my system sounds very good, my bass could be competition quality becasue it can really really kick when I ask it too. The reason I am using a 500W amp is becasue it is a second generation sub from jl audio that runs off of more power than normal conventional subs. Another reason for the power draw could be becasue normally I play my tunes nice and loud and I have other things running such as an additional pair of PIAA driving lights higher performance bulbs throughout the car which may or may not do anyhting since they are the same wattage ratings as stock, as well as a cell charger and a radar detecter which is hard wired into the car. I have heard about these small batteries that can power whole audio systems with ease, so I am going to check that out. |
jerryvigil
| | Posted on Monday, July 22, 2002 - 05:24 pm: |
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Hi:
I have 1995 Landrover Discovery and I installed a custom 10" sub enclosure in the rear storage bins and I replaced the stock radio and rewired the speakers. This should be a pretty straight forward install for any good installer as all of the connections are located at the factory AMP. I use to install Car stereos and alarms for a living and the landrover is one of the easier cars to work on. If you want the wiring color codes for the Discovery, you can email me or you can probably find them on this site.
Thanks |
Todd XD
| | Posted on Monday, July 22, 2002 - 06:14 pm: |
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I run a Landzar 300w to a 10" Pulse tube and an Alpine 150 out to the rest of the factory speakers (replace with MB's) and 6" mids in the passenger doors with no problems. Even while running other gadgets like CB and extra lights. I was informed that it was due to the large cable sizes used coming off the battery?
I don't much about the install, but is sure does sound good. |
Chad Meyer (Ccdm3)
| | Posted on Monday, July 22, 2002 - 07:46 pm: |
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Will...there are many solutions to your problem. A new alternator will absolutely solve your problem. Remember that 500 watts does not always equal 500 watts. The system that is used to rate amplifier output is vague and not subject to any monitoring body. For example I have a 4x16 watt amplifier running 6 MB Quart speakers and a Eclipse 12 with a SPL in excess of 140db. Stupid..yes..but it is a hobby (and former occupation). Anyway...to solve my problems I went with a Jacobs Accuvolt, Optima Battery, and a 1 farad capacitor with 4 gauge wire throughout. To anyone reading...I am more than willing to help with any install questions. This site has helped me expand my knowlege of off roading and I would like to repay the effort.
Chad |
Chad Meyer (Ccdm3)
| | Posted on Monday, July 22, 2002 - 07:52 pm: |
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Chris...I used MB Quart Reference Premium 4in seperates up front. They have the needed spacers in the box. You can take the A pillar off and heat up the silicone holding in the stock tweeter and glue in the Quart. I went with the 5in set-up in the back. For the door speakers, I would suggest tapping into the factory wiring in the kick panels and put the passive x-overs under your seats. You can run new wire into the door, but unless you are competing the factory wire will work for that short of a distance.
Chad |
Craig M. Highland (Shortbus)
| | Posted on Monday, July 22, 2002 - 11:43 pm: |
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1 farad capacitor............get one, and wire it in as close to the Amp as possible. Also, a stand-alone, yellow or blue top, deep cycle optima (or similar) battery just for the audio equip... I use a red-top for cca's and the blue for audio....
If it's SPL's you are going for, time to start thinking about that big (or multiple) alternator(s), etc...
Just my .02
Craig |
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