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Jay Hobbs (Jayxd)
| Posted on Friday, July 26, 2002 - 11:39 am: |
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My PS swivel ball is leaking at the retaining ring, just a little bit of grease, not much at all. I'm assuming it is the seal? I'm having new rotors put on next week and it seems that some of the work to replce the seal will be done already so I should see about getting it replaced. Will the tire shop putting my rotors on know what to do or look at me and go huh? I'm under the assumption this is a fairly LR specific thing. |
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Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| Posted on Friday, July 26, 2002 - 12:24 pm: |
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Replacing rotors and replacing swivel ball seals are only related in that you have some of the stuff off to do the rotors that you'd need to remove to get to the swivel ball seal. I strongly doubt that a "Tire Shop" would know about swivel balls and seals. The swivel ball design was also used on old Scouts too. We had a fairly lengthy discussion on this topic a few weeks ago. Try to do a search through the archives and you should find a fairly detailed description of what is involved. If you need more insight, there are several of us who have done this who can offer you some suggestions. |
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Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
| Posted on Friday, July 26, 2002 - 05:19 pm: |
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Jay, this is from Paul a few weeks back. I cleaned mine thoroughly and drained it and refilled with some heavy Lucas Gear Oil and no more leaking. I am thinking whoever owned this before had put some really thin oil or synthetic in it. Anyhow, here is what Paul posted for me: Get jack and stands, jack up car. Remove tire/wheel Disconnect caliper and remove ABS sensor loosen the seven bolts that hold the swivel to the axle tube. Withdraw halfshaft and swivel Remove five bolts holding swivel seal collar in place Remove swivel seal and replace collar Carefully feed halfshaft back into axle tube. Tighten seven 14 m/m 12-point bolts to mount swivel to tube. Replace caliper and ABS sensor Remount tire Lower jack Refill swivel housing with lubricant of choice Drive away. I'll email you some stuff that Dee sent me, Thanks again Dee.. Later.. Robert |
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Ricky Smart (Rikstaboogie)
| Posted on Saturday, July 27, 2002 - 03:23 am: |
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landrover one shot grease or axle oil... :-) |
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Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
| Posted on Saturday, July 27, 2002 - 06:25 am: |
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IMHO, No grease if you enjoy water crossings since you would have to disassemble to clean out that grease. Heavy gear oil works great and you can drain it and refill after a weekend of river running. Later.. Robert |
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Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| Posted on Saturday, July 27, 2002 - 09:52 am: |
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Robert: In the past, I would have agreed with you on the 90wt. versus grease (not that I'm necessarily disagreeing with you now), especially since I blew a rear hub seal by filling the axle with water (OK, maybe it didn't "Blow"). Anyway, since then, and after listening to a friend of mine's wife complain about wading having destroyed wheel bearings, and since hearing that a number of guys (pirates)have removed the stub axle seal to bathe the bearings and swivels in a common lubricant, I'm leaning toward using John Deere corn head grease. I am still concerned over the ingress of water during mud puddle crossings, but I've now begun to wonder if one lets his truck sit for a day or two, will the water migrate to the bottom of the swivel and could you drain it out? I'm sure that the action inside the swivel ball is pretty violent and the oil/grease/water has to become homogenized at one point, but will the grease prevent the water from going to the bottom? Is the viscosity sufficiently high to overcome the differences in densities? Again, the density differential of heavy grease and water would likely be much less than that of the 90 wt. Yes, I'll take Ho's advice and just do it and let everybody know what I find. Suppose I should fill a swivel with corn head grease, add a few hundred mls of water, drive for a week, let the truck sit overnight and see what drains out? Paul |
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