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Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| Posted on Monday, July 29, 2002 - 12:49 pm: |
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All: I'm preparing to replace the driveshaft on my Disco. Before I drive a new u-joint in and take it to have it balanced, I want to make sure it is going to be better than the one I have-balance weights falling off. As I was cleaning up the replacement drvieshaft, I noticed that there seems to be a rubber bushing in the end that would mate with the centering pin. I have been unable to find mention of this rubber bushing in the parts list, the workshop manual, the Haynes manual, nor the Rave CD. Nor have I seen mention of it in any of the common parts houses catalogs. As the driveshaft shows significant contact with the u-joint yoke and the roto-flex was pretty well chewed up, I probably have reason to be concerned. Anybody got any comments? Better yet, a part number? Paul |
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Blue (Bluegill)
| Posted on Monday, July 29, 2002 - 01:21 pm: |
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you mean this bushing?:
the dealer will tell you that you need to buy the whole rotoflex "kit" to get this bushing...comes in the box with the new roto. Don't know a separate part # for the bushing only. When my roto blew apart, my inner bushing was chewed to hell. The old bushing sits in a metal collar, and it was a real bitch to get out (had to cut it out), then tap the new one in:
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Blue (Bluegill)
| Posted on Monday, July 29, 2002 - 01:22 pm: |
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Blue (Bluegill)
| Posted on Monday, July 29, 2002 - 01:23 pm: |
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Blue (Bluegill)
| Posted on Monday, July 29, 2002 - 01:26 pm: |
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Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| Posted on Monday, July 29, 2002 - 02:12 pm: |
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So that's what it's supposed to look like! Funny, when I bought my replacement Roto-flex, it didn't include one... Suffice it to say, the one in my donor driveshaft doesn't look that good! Blue, you got a part number? You know, us enviro-geeks can't do research very well! D'Oh, apparently, we can't read very well either! I think I can get mine out using the slide-hammer vice grip method. Paul |
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Kyle
| Posted on Monday, July 29, 2002 - 02:15 pm: |
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EEEK , fill rubber bushing with grease. Find rod that fits snug and knock it in. Bushing magically pops out.. Kyle |
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Blue (Bluegill)
| Posted on Monday, July 29, 2002 - 02:23 pm: |
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magic...like this?
bushing came out with peg, it was the metal collar around the bushing that didn't want to come out |
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Kyle
| Posted on Monday, July 29, 2002 - 02:47 pm: |
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Now that is magic...lol , what could be easier ? Kyle |
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Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| Posted on Monday, July 29, 2002 - 03:14 pm: |
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Removal isn't the issue here fellows, the part number is. I can get the old one out... If you read the first posting, my request was for a part number. Time to call Nathan, I guess. |
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Kyle
| Posted on Monday, July 29, 2002 - 03:32 pm: |
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You go beating that thing up with Vice grips and happmers and it will be an issue soon enough.. Kyle |
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Blue (Bluegill)
| Posted on Monday, July 29, 2002 - 03:48 pm: |
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sorry Paul, no part # here - dealer insisted that the bushing couldn't be had separately from the "roto kit" for $120. I looked at the kit, and there it was - bushing & roto in box. LOL, I picked up a fellow dwebber's spare bushing and a new roto from another dwebber. |
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Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| Posted on Monday, July 29, 2002 - 03:59 pm: |
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Kyle: I fail to see the difference between using the hammer and chisel method that Blue used and a pair of vice-grips set up in a slide hammer configuration. In fact, I'd consider it to be better to use a slide hammer pulling outward, rather than a chisel going in. At least I'm heading in the right direction! Going further, would it make you feel better if I were to use a slide hammer bearing and seal puller instead of a pair of vice-grips set up as a slide hammer? The driveshaft I'm working with is Matt Milbrandt's that saw much use and suffered mightily from it, if appearance is any indicator. The roto was so bad that the retaining bolts chewed up the three bolt flange. The U-joint flange showed evidence of having contacted the driveshaft mating end. Not intending to bash Matt here, he was kind enough to sell me his driveshaft. The bushing I'm referring to no longer has much of the rubber left. Given its current condition, I see few avenues left open to me and given the current condition, the vice-grip slide hammer method seems to be indicated. If it's gonna cost me more than a hundred bucks, I'll stop where I am and chop the three finger flange off and weld a u-joint yoke on it and continue with my long-term plans a little more quickly than planned. Blue: With all of the trouble you went to document this debacle, by chance did you write down any of the numbers on that bushing? Paul. |
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Kyle
| Posted on Monday, July 29, 2002 - 04:03 pm: |
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Man I have three or four of those damn things laying aorund here I believe...Send me your address. If the rubber is gone you are right, Time to freestyle. But if you make it out of round it just gonna suck twice as bad to get it out. Keep that in mind. Kyle |
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Blue (Bluegill)
| Posted on Monday, July 29, 2002 - 04:14 pm: |
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wrote it down, but not sure where that piece of wisdom is. Will check one of my spare roto boxes tonight. In the meantime, here's another pretty picture:
I didn't chisel into it, I used a dremmel to cut most of the way through the wall of the collar, then gave it one quick hit with hammer/chisel to break it, then clamped with vicegrip and yanked it. I lightly coated the new bushing with grease, then reassembled. I pulled my rear driveshaft about six weeks later, and the new bushing was definitely showing signs of wear.
That was about nine months ago - I'll probably pull shaft again this weekend (tracing weird noises) and have a look. With all my lift-induced roto vibes, I'll bet it's a mess in there... |
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Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| Posted on Monday, July 29, 2002 - 05:03 pm: |
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Kyle: You have e-mail at your Discoweb address. Thanx, Paul |
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