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Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 12:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hello all, I'm about 200 miles away from home working all week and today my thermostat was occasionally sticking. Engine heating way up, radiatior cool as a cucumber. I've never pulled a thermostat, but was under the assumption that I'd be able to do without it for a few days. I know to unbolt the two bolts coming from the hose from the radiator to the engine block, but once that is off, what shall I do? Will the thermostat pull right out? Should I stick some hylomar or something on it? I plan on doing the repairs early in the morning before having to cruise around any more. It's not sticking all the time but on 3 occasions today i had to shut the rig off and let him cool down after the temp gauge went 75% + towards the top.. Thanks in advance.. Robert
 

Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 12:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Robert,

Where are you at right now, that's 200 miles from Vol-land?

IMHO, pop by a parts store and get a replacement, it's not anything special.

Yes, the thermostat is just inside the housing, just swap 'em.....


Good luck,

-L
 

Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 12:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hola, I'm in Gallitin? TN. Not sure of the spelling, just North of Nashvegas. Working here all week, joy of joys. Stopped at AutoZone and another place which I can't remember the name of, and they were ZERO help. Neither stocked the part, and when I mentioned pulling it out they acted like that was a big mistake or something. From what I've always heard thermostats are mostly important in the cold/winter months, primarily for comfort reasons. Anyhow, if I pull it out, do I need to seal that back up to the block with some hylomar or something? On a lighter note Leslie, saw your post about getting a 95, congrats, and as I already mentioned on another post you had better come toward Knoxvegas or give me a call sometime.. Peace.. Roberto
 

Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 12:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

LOL, saw the post.... :)

You're right, you can run it w/o a thermostat in the summer if need be, I just try not to do it. I know Gallatin, it's the wrong way for me to be of any help.... :(


Probably wouldn't be bad to use something, I'd probably use blue RTV if I had it handy, hylomar should be fine if it's handy instead.


Good luck,

-L
 

Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 12:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Kind of lived with my then girlfriend which is now my wife in Murfreesboro for awhile, so I've been here before. Only time I remember being here in Gallitin before was going to the Best Buy down the road to get a TV. I have an old friend here so we went out tonight, and I'll have to say this once again.. ALABAMA sucks. Much happier to be here around Nashville:)
 

petern12
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 12:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Robert, sorry about being stuck so far from home. Sounds like your Thermostat is stuck in the shut position intermittently. It will be perfectly fine running your engine for a few days without the thermostat, the only difference you'll notice is that it'll take the coolant/engine a little longer to get up to operating temperature, no biggie in the summer. The therm removal process is as follow:

1. remove top hose, which is attached to the thermostat housing(you've done that)
2. remove the distributor cap for access to the two bolts at the bottom of the thermostat housing.
disconnect the ac temp switch screwed onto the front of the housing.
3. you should now have access to remove the two bolts. Be careful to retain the gasket.
4. with housing out, pull thermostat out.
5. bolt housing & gasket and stuff back. You're now running the coolest engine on the road!

Let me know how it works out for you...Good luck!
peter
 

Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 12:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Except, a 4.0 is distributorless.....

:)


-L
 

rubisco98
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 12:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks Peter, I've got a '96 so access to the bolts is simple. I plan on doing it in the a.m. since it has been like 90's here during the day. Actually 82 degrees when i woke up this morning.. I can't wait until fall/winter:) Thanks again for your help.. peace.. RS
 

petern12
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 02:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I wrote the instructions w/ the under the hood "visual" from my '95 D1. Well, it'll take you even less time to get back on your rubbers...
 

Ron Ward (Ronward)
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 08:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Uh, don't forget to drain off a gallon or so of the antifreeze/coolant mixture before removing that top hose....

Ron Ward
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 09:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Same gasket and t-stat as small block chevy, except no "Jiggle Pin". For a quick field repair, use a small nail to bust a hole in the ring around the element. Or, just leave the damned thing out! But, get the gasket.

Given the pressure and likelihood of warping of the mating surfaces, I wouldn't suggest just using hylomar as a gasket.

The joys of Rover ownership!
 

Blue (Bluegill)
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 10:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

tstat123
 

Brian
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 02:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If you can, drain some coolant first. When you first pull the thermostat from its housing, you will be surprised at how much drains out onto the ground if you don't first take some out. Also, this keeps animals (antifreeze is literally like Kool-Aid to them) from being poisoned.
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 02:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Blue:
Have you conducted a photo-documentary of EVERY maintenance step you've undertaken on your truck?

Paul
 

Blue (Bluegill)
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 02:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

no, changing fluids is a poor photo subject
 

p m
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 03:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Paul, i'm getting the same impression.

soon Blue is going to be The Guru.

peter
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 03:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I don't know about the changing fluids being a poor photo subject. I took some pictures of the 90 wt. draining from my Brother in Law's Rangie and the cool little sparklies in the oil turned out really well in the picture! Of course, it didn't bode well for the contents of the swivel ball.
 

Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 04:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Alrighty, a couple of things. Got up early to beat the heat and removed the t-stat, I didn't drain out any fluid ahead of time, but dumped about a gallon into the WalMart parking lot. I already used some Permatex sp? on it. Anyhow, after running around town today she still heats up. So, not a sticky t-stat but now I'm guessing blockage of the radiator. Anyone have any luck with any cleaners/rad. flush type products? I'm afraid it's going to take a rodding to get it back in shape.. but was hoping for the easy, cheaper fix. Thanks Blue for your pic, although I already had it out before I had the chance to check here this morning.. Peace.. RS
 

Ron Ward (Ronward)
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 05:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Sounds like a poorly funtioning viscous fan clutch or clogged radiator. Check the fan first. Then have a local radiator shop pull the rad and rod it out. I had my rad done last week. Took one day.

Ron Ward

p.s. Had me laughing out loud about dumping the coolant in the Walmart parking lot!!!
 

Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 05:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Ron, I recently was up in Asheville, NC and picked up a local paper. They had all these statistics on how much pollution Wal-Mart stores create and were trying to keep a new SuperCenter from opening up. As I sat and watched the coolant flowing like the Mississippi, I actually laughed (only inside my head though) thinking of that article. Because you know if I did it, then there must be at least one more idiot that did the same thing. I just didn't have much of a choice on location. The local WM is about 1/8 mile from my hotel here. Anyhow, how much dinero should I plan on spending for the rodding? Also, do they pull the rad. or will I have to. I've never owned a vehicle that I've had to work on. I'm really surprising my wife b/c I'm under the galldarned thing at least once a week:) i sure could use a cold beer.. Later.. Robert
 

JB
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 05:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

found this in my notes, does it sound right?

To Test The Viscous Fan Clutch

1. With Engine cold. Spin fan. Should be able to spin it halfway around or more.

2. Get engine to temperature (idle 5-10 minutes.) Shut down engine, spin fan. Should spin no more than 2-3 blades even with a firm push. If it spins the same as it did when the engine was cold, you need a new viscous unit.


JB
 

petern12
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 05:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Is your fan clutch functional, it should kick in and stay in as the temp rises. Also check for EXTERNAL clogging of the radiator's "cooling fins". For rigs which have been mud-bogging a few times, t's not unsusual for the rad to get clogged to the point where it's no longer capable of regulating the operating temp...Walmart has always been very generous with their parking lol's camping policy. I hope it doesn't end because of you. Worse yet, I hope they don't press charges, as coolant qualifies in some states at toxic waste dump! :) Good luck!
 

petern12
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 05:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

...without saying also check your pump...
 

E Snyder
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 05:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If you run in a lot of mud, there could be a good bit of mud between the two radiators. The outer one is for the transmission if I understand it correctly. Leaves, mud, etc. can build up between them. Might be causing it by only part of the radiator actually cooling. Mine had a ton of crap between them the last time I had overheating issues.
 

Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 05:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

That is definitely a possibility of the mud build up. How would I go about pulling the two apart to clean in there? I've never pulled a radiator so any help would be very nice. I won't be able to do that until Saturday I suppose so no rush on this info:) Peace.. RS
 

Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
Posted on Thursday, August 01, 2002 - 11:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Got called back to Knoxville *home), and tonight I did a complete flushing of the radiator, even some of that Prestone cleaner stuff. Didn't look like any crap coming out of there. I also cleaned as best I could the back side of the radiator and sprayed through the front fans after removal of the grill. I'll find out tomorrow I suppose if it worked since it wouldn't heat up much being 20 plus degrees cooler outside with no sun.. Oh well.. Later.> RS

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