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Lawrence Tilly (L_Tilly)
| Posted on Thursday, February 28, 2002 - 10:22 am: |
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Good morning, all. I had a problem w/ my driver's power window this morning. We had light freezing rain last night but the truck had been running for 30+ minutes and there was no visible frost remaining on the windows or rubber seal. Under the similar conditions in the past I have normally been able to open the window with one or two very light attempts of rocking up and down. When approaching a toll booth this morning I tapped the down button to test the window and it was still frozen (moved slightly in the seal but stopped). I taped the button to move it back up and then tried the down one more time. This time the motor ran but the window did not move. It appears something disconnected. The motor can be heard running either up or down but the glass remains stationary. No other sounds can be heard within the door (loose items rattling, etc). I wanted to ask first if anyone is familiar w/ the mechinisms of what might have been the piece to seperate and if it's a DIY job. I do have the shop manual. Also, does any one have any tips on removing the door pannels beyond the steps in the manual? Primarily anything I should watch out for as potential breaks, etc. As always, thanks in advance for any tips. L_Tilly [email protected] 96 Disco "Beowulf" NH, USA |
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drbuck
| Posted on Thursday, February 28, 2002 - 04:04 pm: |
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Lawrence, It sounds like a regulator problem...I would recommend using some gaffer's (duct) tape to hold your window up until you get a chance to pull the door apart...if the window falls into the door frame it could break. If it is the regulator (curved scissor thingy that makes the window go up and down) it is DIY job. Pull the door panel off and have a look...you will likely see the problem. Good Luck, jeff. |
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Max (Madmax)
| Posted on Thursday, February 28, 2002 - 04:19 pm: |
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The same thing happened to me on Monday - I live in Australia and you don't need freezing weather for it to happen. It sounds like the piece of metal that is driven by the regulator has broken off from the winding mechanism. You will probably find it in the botoom of the door panel. It is ann easy DIY job to remove but you need a MIG welder to spot weld (3 spots) the 2 pieces back together as the piece of metal is steel and the winding mechanism id galvanised iron. Taping the window up will be needed at times to remove winding mechanism. Also a good time to regrease/lube all the mechanism in the door. Good luck |
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Rob
| Posted on Thursday, February 28, 2002 - 04:44 pm: |
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Nylon Roller cracked see TECH SECTION to repair. Or easier just to replace. Maybe 1 hour and $50.00. |
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ken knebusch (Charlotterover)
| Posted on Friday, March 01, 2002 - 07:48 am: |
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Lawrence, you've got mail. |
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Lawrence Tilly (L_Tilly)
| Posted on Friday, March 01, 2002 - 12:22 pm: |
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Thanx for all the tips. I'm going to be digging into it this Saturday if the weather's not wet. I'll let you know if there's anything interesting. L_Tilly [email protected] 96 Disco "Beowulf" NH, USA |
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jpitman
| Posted on Saturday, March 02, 2002 - 08:34 am: |
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Two possibilities - seen both now. Original regulators have nylon rollers that break up, and the arm comes out of the channel at bottom of glass. The nylons bits are not available - you have to buy the whole thing (less motor). Allmakes make replacements, with much bigger nylon things, so they will last better, but the metal work is much lighter, and the nylon runners looser, so the window moves around more, and can rattle, mostly when only down - the unit (Allmakes) was imported from UK, and not possible to send back. Using the spots as targets, I drilled small holes (1 per spot), and bolted it back together carefully, glued and peened the bolt ends to prevent undoing. This was drivers door, so it gets a fair bit of work, and ok so far, but only a month now. Front doors are harder as they have two channels with sliding nylons, bigger assembly, bit of wriggling to get out. jp |
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