| Author |
Message |
    
christian
| | Posted on Monday, August 05, 2002 - 11:35 pm: | 
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I recently purchased a diff. guard for my DII for the front diff. from Al at D.A.P. He told me I had to loosen the passenger side panhard rod to allow the diff. protector to be placed onto the front differential. He said the diff. protector will not squeeze between the panhard rod and the differenial. Is this feasible and if so, can the bolt be loosened, removed and retightened as is or do I need to torque it specifically or do anything else with it? thanks.
Christian |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Monday, August 05, 2002 - 11:41 pm: |
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Torque the bolt to 170 lb/ft. |
Frode H�bertz Haaland (Discofrode)
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 03:53 am: |
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Guess CORRECT way would be a new Nyloc nut for your panhard rod bolt.
Frode |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 06:40 am: |
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Loctite works a WHOLE lot better than Nylocs, but its your choice.
-P |
Frode H�bertz Haaland (Discofrode)
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 07:21 am: |
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Is that really true, Perrone?
I've been feeling guilty when loctiting if I didn't have the proper nyloc...
Well, I'm an academic professor, so my technical judgment is way low. Following the LR and Haynes manual script, using torquewrenches anywhere and everywhere is my only way of ensuring at least SOME of the job is done in a proper way...
Frode |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 07:44 am: |
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Well,
Nylocs only hold torque for 2 to perhaps 3 applications. However, they offer no eveidence as to when they won't hold proper torque.
Nylocs by their very nature are not hardened so their use in critical situations is not recommended.
Nylocs have to be tossed out creating waste. A significant problem for field fixes when the damn nut won't stay torqued.
Nylocs offer no protection against rust or corrosion on the threads.
Nylocs don't offer as much protection from vibrational loosening as Nyloc nuts. Or so sayeth the tests from the guys who wrench on the space shuttle. (loctite holds in a vacuum)
Nylocs don't reseal once overheated.
Loctite solves all these problems as well as some others. It's cheap, it works on any fastener even one's that aren't prefectly clean. Loctite is MUCH easier to carry in a kit than a bunch of different sized nylocs.
-P |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 10:07 am: |
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i'm not just a memeber of loctite for men.. i'm also the owner 
my beef with nylocs are when you take them on and off a few times all that "ny" in nyloc gets chewed up and doesn't hold worth a shit. i go to replace it with a fresh nut but i cant find metric fine thread nyloc's let alone just a regular metric fine tread or even sometimes regular thread in metric.
rd |
Dee
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 10:23 am: |
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Perrone Nylocs are supposed to be used once and discarded. Once the Nylon is seated thats it, if you reuse it no new Material is left to fill the thread valleys.
I give nylock with my Diff guards |
perroneford
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 11:20 am: |
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Dee,
This is dependent on the type of Nyloc (Nylok) nut used. For the generic brands with a Nylon insert available at the hardware store this is true. However, the better grade fasteners like those sold by the Nylok corporation are in fact reusable.
Have a visit over to www.nylok.com and look at the Torq-Patch locknuts which is what we are discussing here. These are generally usable 2-3 times before they lose their ability to hold torque.
However, I simply use loctite which also gives me anti-galling and anti-sieze properties without having to worry about tossing my expensive hardware out every few times I disassemble a part.
Rob, if you want to get metric hardware try Maryland Metrics (http://mdmetric.com/) they have EVERYTHING you could need fastener wise.
-P |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 11:42 am: |
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they have everything but a store 5 minutes from my house!
i rarely have the foresight to order nuts and bolts ahead of time, though i've been fantazing about stocking a couple hundred bucks worth of hard to find metric and fine thread unf stuff in my garage. just cause it's priceless when you need it.
rd |
perroneford
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 11:50 am: |
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I use the common government method of buying 5 when I need 1. If it breaks once, it's bound to break again so buy spares.
I'm currently converting my truck over to all TORX and SHCS fasteners so I can lighten the load of tools I have to carry around. Torx sockets are a LOT easier to carry around than a toolbox full of wrenches. Carry loctite and loctite thread form is a LOT easier than carrying spare fasteners, etc.
-P |
Dee
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 01:22 pm: |
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PF I came from an Navy Aviation Maintenance back ground and no matter what I never reuse Nylocks. The various compounds still deform and each reuse degrades there performance. Also any quality mechanic will replace Nylocks when removed. There are several sites to order Nylocks in Bulk I go to a local source no need to go to LR and pay 3.50 for nut |
perroneford
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 01:59 pm: |
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Aviation specs are a LOT tighter than anything else. Take a trip over to the motor pool and ask if the hummer mechs, reuse Nylocs. Believe me, you don't have to explain about not re-using them. I never did on my truck, which is why I got SICK of them. The final straw was HAVING to reuse a set of 4 nylocks on my front driveshaft on a trip to a rally. The damn thing loosened up 3 times before I could find some loctite to keep them on. I swore from then on, I'd never fool with them again.
-P |
Dee
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 02:50 pm: |
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Perrone
8 new Nylocks for a drive shaft $1.25 not a major cash outlay maybe less I think I pay 18 cents each.
As a rule I always use new Nylocks Also I replace rusted & worn fasteners when found usually with a similar or better quality item. I try to torque to required specs and use items such as Lock tight, Anti Seize where required. Bla Bla Bla I know....
We can go on and on about this but its personal preference thing. I use the methods I was thought durring my 20 years in the Navy, Aviation Mil Specs are tough but nothing compared to Nuclear Sub Safe requirements. Work in that enviroment gives a new meaning to the word anal
I've had very few fasteners fail me in my years of wrenching. I am not trying to brag or give a resume. I have been fortunate to work in some very challenging and complex machinery and wrenching on Land Rovers is close to the bottom of my skill level
Most here on Dweb think I'm full of shit on my opinions So be it. |
perroneford
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 03:14 pm: |
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Dee,
I don't think you're full of anything. And I've had the pleasure to work with others who wrenched in the military both on fighter planes and in Nuke subs in the engine rooms. A nice gentlemen I used to work with spent 15 years on a nuke sub, through the cold war...
My problems with Nylocs are most certainly personal preference. They work as advertised when new. My issue with them is only field fixes as I rarely carry spare hardware with me in the field. However, in my garage shop I do have an organized selection of fasteners, anti-sieze, anti-galling compounds, and all manner of thread locking compounds.
No dry fasteners!
-P |
Dee
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 03:31 pm: |
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Now all fancy rules of mechanics go out the window in reguard to trail repairs. What ever gets you home works
I was thinking of the biggest PIA fasteners I ever had to deal with and it was the Inconel 12 point bolts found on the TF30 engine casings what a pain to drill out most of the time I had to burn them out |
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