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petern12
Posted on Thursday, August 08, 2002 - 08:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

My t-r-a-n-n--y is leaking a hand-sized puddle every night. Where does the leak most commonly come from? I haven't cleaned my underside and look yet. Which brand(if any) ATF Stop-Leak is most effective? Any effect on t-r-a-n-n--y performance/durability? Thanks.
 

Ron
Posted on Thursday, August 08, 2002 - 09:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

input or output and strangly and most commonly from the drain plug/pan gasket

Ron
 

perroneford
Posted on Friday, August 09, 2002 - 02:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Man, clean the thing up and have a looksee. It's probably just the pan. If so, fit a new one, torque it up properly, and leave the stop-leak on the shelf.

-P
 

hendrik
Posted on Friday, August 09, 2002 - 03:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I once tried to use this stuff for a leaking steering box. Shortly after a small drop (which was pretty tolerable) turned into a real leak. I then -as I should have done first time- changed the steering box (was worn also). I may argue, that the stop-leak at last made the steering box tight this way:) It works by making seals swell a little. No substitute for worn seals long-term and not for gaskets.
I should be glad the seals in the PAS pump were not affected.

hendrik
 

Kingfish (Kingfish)
Posted on Friday, August 09, 2002 - 07:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

There's a product called NOLEAK. It stopped my transfer box and steering pump from leaking. OK, so I took the easy way out, but its been about 2 years on the steering box and about a year on the transfer box and my driveway is still dry. By the way, they make 4 different types. 1 for coolant (I wouldnt try that), 1 for ATF, 1 for engines, 1 for steering boxes
 

petern12
Posted on Friday, August 09, 2002 - 12:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I was afraid you guys would come to the replacement consensus...:) I already bought the t--ranny seal/filter kit but was just hoping for a copout since having to remove the Y-pipe & cross member just didn't look like a fun way to spend a saturday afternoon...:) A quick look this morning confirmed that your pan gasket diagnosis is probably right, as things appeared dry above the gasket. Kingfish I'll keep NOLEAK in mind for the TC, which I think is just a matter of time...I
 

Bruce
Posted on Friday, August 09, 2002 - 04:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You realize that once you start this effort of halting your leaks, you will begin to suffer the consequences of dried-out bushings. Whoever stated that line in another post about LandRover's automatic chasis lubrication system was very funny!
Spend the hours doing the right thing, remove the pan and reseal. Spreading the chasis hint, with no highlift jack or spreader at your disposal, cut to length 2x4 and hammer into place.
Have fun...
 

Nathan Hindman (Nathanh)
Posted on Friday, August 09, 2002 - 07:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If it were me, I'd avoid using stop leak in your t-ra-n-n-y. The stop leak works on the principal of causing the rubber and seals to expand. Not that big of a deal on something like the power steering, but think of what happens to all those tiny little seals in your ZF.... Then again I could just be paranoid. :)

Nathan Hindman
http://www.PangaeaExpeditions.com

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