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A/C intermittent failure.James08-11-02  11:37 pm
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Tom Johnston
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2002 - 03:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If I drive my truck back and forth to work on level ground it stays within the normal temp. I even drove it 100 miles and no problems. However, the minute I go uphill or turn on the AC or take it out on the trails to abuse it, it heats up fast... H2O pump, hoses, t-stat have all been recently replaced. Also, I just flushed and renewed the coolant. There is no unwanted leakage just when it boils over.

The possibilities I thought of were a new exp. tank cap and the radiator is bad. Could there be anything else?? I'm going to pull the t-stat and try running without it and see if that fixes the prob. If it does work, what does that tell me just that the t-stat is bad??
 

trevorgriffiths
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2002 - 09:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I have seen a lot of Rovers come through my shop with similar temp concerns. I would be willing to bet that if you were to look down the front of the radiator(pull back the rubber seal at the top) you will see debris-leaves etc.- blocking the core. Also, with the engine cool, remove the air bleed from the top of the radiator and look in at a sharp angle at the core. If it is all white and crusty, but the radiator is not leaking, a competent radiator shop can 'rod' the radiator for less than replacing the whole thing. Call me if you are near Baltimore, and I can give you the name of my radiator guy.
Trevor Griffiths
Treasured Motorcar Services
410.833.2329
 

Ron
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2002 - 09:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

New radiator time.

Don't be a CB on the rad.

Ron
 

Ron
Posted on Saturday, August 10, 2002 - 09:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Also check the fan clutch.

Ron
 

Seth Smythe (Seth)
Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 12:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

How do you check the fan clutch? Is that where you: 1) spin it by hand when it's cold, and then 2) spin it by hand when it's warm, and if there's no difference, you need a new clutch?

Thanks,
-SETH
 

Chad Meyer (Ccdm3)
Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 05:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I had the same problem...I now have a new fan clutch and no problem! I did however take it to "you know where" and now I'm out $400! Oh well, at least I got to drive a new D2 for a couple of days.
Chad
 

muskyman
Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 05:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

lol @chad

around here I see ford focus's with stickers that say______Land rover convience car

chad would you feel worse if you'da gotten the focus?
 

Chad Meyer (Ccdm3)
Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 05:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Believe it or not, Plaza motors in Stl. gives you a Rover for a Rover! I would have walked for 2 days before I got in a Focus. Besides, how can they keep enough around with all of the recalls?
Chad
 

trevorgriffiths
Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Is there something wrong with fixing the radiator as opposed to replacing it? If the tanks are removed and the core is evaluated and pronounced good otherwise, why can't the unit be rodded ,resoldered and refitted? I have performed this procedure on many a customer's vehicle with NO failures.
Trevor Griffiths
Treasured Motorcar Services
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 09:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Trevor:
How many miles have your customers put on these vehicles after having the radiator rodded?

I have heard some say that the rodding process only removes the material that can be physically removed and that there is a significant amount of silicates (along with other similar metals commonly found in water) that remain and allow future buildup to take place at a rate greater than if new. Also, there is some degradation to the tanks after prolonged heating/cooling. Some radiator shops will not consider recoring due to liability concerns.

In my case, the locally quoted price to recore was seven dollars more than a new radiator and rodding was only $100 less. Quite unfortunately, I have had three radiators shipped to me that had suffered damage sufficient that I refused delivery. I am now waiting for numbers four and five to arrive, hoping that one will make it to me intact.
 

John Stecz
Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 12:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I'm having a funky temperature problem... the wierd part is, it's intermittent. While moving at a reasonable pace (engine over 2k rpm), I've never had the engine stay above half-way on the guage (maybe once when towing a 5500 lb trailer on a hilly road). But, when I sit at a light, when it's over about 97 degrees outside, the gauge will run to the top of the range (this is intermittent, then next time I can sit at a light while it's really hot and it stays right at the middle). When it get's hot, if I put the truck in neutral and rev it to 2k rpm or so, it will cool down. Can the fan clutch fail intermittently? I can hear the fan turning when it's hot. Both electric fans are on also.

One more question. Should the electric fans run after the ignition is turned off?
 

cartner
Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 02:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

the fan clutch runs off of a synthetic/silicone based fluid that acts as a switch, its explained in the manual. I don't think it could do it intermittently, could be some kind of sensor issue. May be the sending unit.
 

Jeff Price
Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 04:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Kinda sounds like the thermostat sticking, which could be intermittent. If you shut down with the engine hot the fans run on a timer for a set amount of time.

If they aren't shutting off after a few minutes the timer circuit could be hosed.

cheers
-jeff
 

John S.
Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 05:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

One time, I've heard the fans running after I shut it off, it might have been above normal when I shut it off that time. Usually, it's at the middle of the gauge when I shut it off.

I'll replace the thermostat tonight and see if that helps...
 

Charles
Posted on Thursday, August 15, 2002 - 04:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

How can you check to see if the two electric fans work? I am having the same problem. Intermitent heating. When do the two fans kick in?
Charles
 

Brian
Posted on Friday, August 16, 2002 - 03:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I agree with the sticking thermostat situation. Sounds like what happened to me. I replaced the thermostat, now I cannot MAKE my '97 D1 overheat.

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