| Author |
Message |
    
Jack (Olered)
| | Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 09:53 am: | 
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I performed my first brake job on my 99D1 this weekend (changed the brake pads and inspected). I ordered my parts from Nathan at Discount Rovers and the price was right. But now I'm mad. After performing the repair, I realized the amount of money that I had saved. LR wanted $400+ and a local shop wanted $500+. With the exception of breaking the lug nuts loose, a drunk blind man with one arm tied behind his back could have finished the job. It took me about an hour. The only problem encountered was the use of the D2 instructions that I found on EE. I found myself trying to follow them to the word. The D1 is even easier! So what next? Is everything relatively easy? |
Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d)
| | Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 09:57 am: |
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500+ for just changing the pads? Holy $#!^ |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 09:59 am: |
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next is you can go to the local parts store and get generic pads for $16-$20 per axel and cut out the whole mail order thing.
rd |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 10:03 am: |
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Yes, everything is that easy once you get the factory workshop manuals and learn the British way of running you around the barn to find the answer you need-buy the manual and you'll quickly learn what I mean!
Go forth and do your own work!
Paul |
Kyle
| | Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 10:05 am: |
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Well I dont think you wanna do that to Nathan. Its in everyones best interest to keep the cash flowing in his direction .....
Kyle |
Jack (Olered)
| | Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 10:09 am: |
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Nathan has my business. Don't worry. I was not afraid of getting the wrong parts. That is why I ordered from him. Trust is the word. I started to document the process so that there would be a D1 tech article but it was so damned easy, I said F it. Oh, my $20 limb risers from Home Depot will be complete today. I think it's all about being patient and inventive. |
justin
| | Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 11:15 am: |
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Absolutely, the 20$ limb risers from Home Depot definately work!! and in my personal opinion I think they make the truck run better. |
Jack (Olered)
| | Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 11:18 am: |
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If not run better, it will hold it together! |
Lawrence Tilly (L_Tilly)
| | Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 11:20 am: |
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Jack,
Yes, many of the projects are pretty easy, if you have the right tools (beer), patience (beer), and some beer. I think it's part of the Rover's design concept that there's a lot of room to work around and most things are pretty accessable. Despite the yuppie image they have become a part of, they are still expedition-class vehicles at heart. It wouldn't be very smart of Rover to design something of this nature and make it impossible to perform field-repairs on even "difficult" items. If you read some of the adventures some people on this board have had they have done some pretty intense repair work at times on the trail, all with what they carry in their truck.
The more I work on my 96 D1 the more work I realize it needs (previous owner was a mall-crawler that did not even perform the FREE scheduled maintenance or recall items while under lease!). Personally, I do enjoy wrenching on the Disco and have found it pretty easy to do even things that sound like they should be difficult. The most difficult thing I encounter on almost every task is coorosion / seizure. Once I get past those issues the rest of the project usually goes pretty quickly.
A real shop manual (not just Haynes) is a MAJOR plus if you plan on doing your own work. Between that and the resources here on DWeb, EE and such, I feel confident attacking almost any job. And the Disco is really the only vehicle I've ever done work on. I'm a computer hacker by nature, not normally a gear-head, and I haven't had to turn to a garage yet except by choice.
Lawrence [email protected]
96 Disco "Beowulf"
NH, USA |
Paul D. Morgan (V22guy)
| | Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 12:17 pm: |
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Yes, Beer is important.
This weekend the goal is new rear springs and brake pads all around.
Paul
'00 pig |
Ramsay (3toedsloth)
| | Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 12:37 pm: |
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Home Depot limb risers? Interesting. Home Depot + playing with a dirty Disco. = Two of my favorite things in life. Can anyone elaborate on this? Thanks.
JR |
Lawrence Tilly (L_Tilly)
| | Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 01:28 pm: |
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JR,
He's probably refering to building home-made limb risers similar to the ones in DWeb's "Tech" section. You can get most of the required parts at Home Depot or other good hardware stores.
If you haven't browsed thru the Tech section of DWeb and/or EE (www.expeditionexchange.com) yet you should. Some great project ideas and fantastic help.
Lawrence [email protected]
96 Disco "Beowulf"
NH, USA |
trevorgriffiths
| | Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 10:11 pm: |
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I was a little surprised by the price quote for the installation of front brake pads. I am a shop owner that specialises in Land Rovers and would think that "$500+" from the independant was including rotors, hub seal, drive member gasket, repacking the bearings, and flushing the brake fluid. I would even throw in an inspection of the stub axle seal and bearing before the bearing collapses, because we all know that the failed bearing is one of the leading reasons ABS wheel speed sensors are replaced with out fixing the problem.
Or, at least , that is what I would offer for $500+, if the vehicle came to my shop.
Is that fleecing?
Trevor Griffiths
Treasured Motorcar Services
Reisterstown, Maryland
410.833.2329 |
Jack (Olered)
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 09:25 am: |
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It is when none of the above is completed. When your neighbor works for LR it's easy to find out the TRUTH. As for the independent shop, none of the above work was offered. They were replacing the pads on all 4 and "inspecting". When the general public doesn't know what work is being done or how easy it is, then that to me is taking advantage of people. Now I know that a lot of times its a matter of convienience (sp?) and time is money. My problem is when I run up to LR for a special part that costs me $100 and then I'm able to find it for $3 elsewhere. Same goes for labor. I know that dealerships must support themselves...
tired of ranting. I think we've all been there. |
todd slater
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 02:16 pm: |
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Jack,
Me thinks you may need to retuurn to the independent shop with some new rotors in tow. At 30k miles on my 99D2, after the PA annual inspection by LR ••••••• (free), they informed me that I needed new rear pads and rotors. I'll spare you my earlier rantings on the subject, suffice it to say that the D2 rotors come from the factory with 1 mm of "useable thickness"...there will be no turning of these puppies. At 30k mine were well below minimum thickness (now... no longer a surprise, I kept looking at my micrometer in disbelief). As I have resigned myself and others will too..Your rotors are disposable. Everytime you change your pads you will now include rotors in the mix...Sorry, to be the bearer of bad tidings, but I just read the mic and weep. |
R. B. Bailey (Rover50987)
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 04:46 pm: |
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I think I remember asking about possible brake jobs before diving into owning a Disco. I just wanted to know what price I would pay for normal maintenance. The LR dealer said something like $300.00, but only if you get them before you need to turn the rotors. After that it goes to $700.00 - if you're looking for a Disco, don't ask questions, just buy, and yes - just beer.
http://landrover.mrbaileyshistory.net |
trevorgriffiths
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 11:11 pm: |
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Fortunately the D2 and New Rangie are easier to work on due to the hubless design of the rotors- no need for hub seals gaskets,etc. so labor costs are down, but it's true: the rotors are very soft and wear out very quickly. I would guess the need to prevent squeal was the trade-off for longevity.
Trevor |
todd slater
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 01:08 pm: |
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Yes it is true the new D2's are very easy to do the pads and rotors replacement. I still think they could have put a little more meat on them...1 mm useable thickness is mighty skimpy. By the way my local LR dealership was more than happy to quote me just shy of $500 to do "just the rear pads and rotors" !!! Drugs are bad don't do them even if you are a LR dealer ! |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Friday, August 16, 2002 - 01:08 am: |
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My dealer wanted about $750 for all four (rotors and pads) for a D2. Very easy on a D2 to do yourself and save buckets of money. But I don't look forward to the day when I need to work on the hub bearings. D1's have it easy there. |
Paul D. Morgan (V22guy)
| | Posted on Friday, August 16, 2002 - 07:00 am: |
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Hey Folks,
Last night I replaced the pads on my pig. It took a whopping 1.5 hours and that included stopping to enjoy a coke. Save your money, order the stuff from www.discountrovers.com and knock it out.
Paul
'00 pig |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Friday, August 16, 2002 - 01:22 pm: |
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Rotor replacement: I have a truck coming into me in the next few days with the Right Front Rotor cracked in at least three places. While I'm not sure that they need to be replaced each time the pads are replaced, this is certainly a dramatic reminder of the fragile nature of the rotors.
On the cracked rotor, one crack extends from the hub to edge and is about 1/8" wide(!) and the rest are in the center of the ablative surface, and show evidence of getting bigger every minute!
Trevor, how often do you see it this serious ? |
Sus (Susannah)
| | Posted on Friday, August 16, 2002 - 01:27 pm: |
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Are there warning signs for cracked rotors, etc?! My brakes are squealing like crazy and I have developed a metal/metal squeal now in what seems to be the right front tire....everytime I turn the wheel to the right of center it happens and does go away when depressing the brake. Before I bought the car, my pre-purchase inspection guy (who works on Rovers in Raleigh) said my brakes were 50%, but it's only been 3000 miles and I'm not heavy footed! Does this sound like I need new brakes? |
Marc
| | Posted on Friday, August 16, 2002 - 01:55 pm: |
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Susannah,
are you in Raleigh? - I live in Wilmington. |
Sus (Susannah)
| | Posted on Monday, August 19, 2002 - 10:09 am: |
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Sorry Marc, my sister lives in Raleigh and I bought the car there, but I live in Central Virginia. |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Monday, August 19, 2002 - 02:41 pm: |
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Warning signs for cracked rotors: The smaller cracks in the center of the rotor appear to start looking somewhat like what a BB does to your windshield right before it takes over your entire windshield. There is a slight bit of crazing that quickly becomes a crack. The disturbing part of this is that there is no evidence of excessive wear anywhere, just smooth wear all the way across the face of the rotor. doesn't appear as though the pads ever wore down to the metal, just that the rotor wore out, completely. I'll know more when it is brought in. Maybe I'll even have pictures.
After having been astounded at the cracks, I now stop (stoop?) to look at my rotors far too often.
As for Susanah's problem, it could well just be worn out pads (wow, I'm not being cynical and suggesting $2000 worth of work!) Of course,it could also be CV joints going bad-there, I feel better! Take a look at the inboard and outboard sides of the rotors, looking for gouging or other signs of metal to metal contact-that is bad!
Paul |
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