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Marc
| | Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 10:07 am: | 
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My dealer installed the swivel ball grease "upgrade" and I want to go back to gear oil, so how do I get the grease out of there?
Another thought - tell me if I am crazy - would it be possible to fit a zerk fitting in the housing and keep the grease?
I want to be able to check and change whatever lubricant I have in there on a regular basis. The grease in there now makes this impractical.
Any other ideas or suggestions?
Thanks,
Marc |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 10:24 am: |
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Marc:
This is a topic I once decided was dead and that I would merely use gear oil in my truck, then I learned some more and have since learned even more.
First off, to remove the existing oil, I just learned this morning that one way to remove it is to try to drain what will ooze out and then, top off with 90 wt. Run that for a few days, drain, refill-repeat as necessary. Supposedly, the two viscosity oils will mix well enough that you can get some out each time until you have it all.
As for the zerk fitting,I don't know that is necessary. I have recently been told of a supposed cross to the LR grease that would allow one to buy it in moderately larger quantities (standard grease gun cartridges) for far less than LR charges. If in fact a close analogue of this material is available in this form, one could pretty easily rig up their grease gun to pump the grease in through the top fill hole. If you were to put a zerk on the swivel housing, how would you know when it was full?
I have spoken with my lubricant distributor about a lower cost source for the grease-he expects to be able to provide it at a cost that is either equal to the price he charges me for 5-gallon pails of 90 wt, or at least competitive. Just from the perspective of handling, I expect to gain from the grease over the 90 wt. It will be so much easier to use a grease gun to pump grease into swivels, compared to trying to pour 90 wt. into the little hole without making a mess on the shop floor!
Paul |
Marc
| | Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 11:29 am: |
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Paul,
if you use the grease, how do you know if it is contaminated (water)?
Also, how high do you fill it?
-Marc |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 09:26 am: |
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The contamination issue is the one that still vexes me. The sages say that you can just pull the plug and the water will flow out. I haven't tried it yet. Given how violent conditions have to be inside the swivel, I'm assuming the grease and water will be pretty well emulsified, but sitting overnight should allow most of the water to separate and migrate to the bottom. Emphasis on assuming and should!
From your post, you say the dealer upgraded you to the grease. As a result, I'm assuming you have all three fittings on your swivel housing. You have enough when it runs out the middle fitting. Should take about 375 ml. Turn the wheel away from the side you're filling and you will have much more room to access. |
petern12
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 05:45 pm: |
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guys, I've heard that the LR grease is supposedly the "end-all" solution in the sense that it's virtually leak-proof(notorious on D1) because of the obvious thickness, and practically last the life of the truck, thereby eliminating the needs to replace/refresh every 30k. It would be really sad if I've assumed wrong because I'd just got two tubes of these $10 LR "wonder-grease". So should I stuff it in my swivels or just "STUFF IT".? |
Jay Hobbs (Jayxd)
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 09:24 pm: |
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Well, in my opinion the "end-all" solution from LR is a bunch of shit! My 97 Disco has only the fill plug in the swivels and is filled with the magical swivel grease. PS swivel is leaking slightly at the very bottom so I'd say it isn't virtually leak proof. I can't tell if it contaminated with water but I ran a zip tie down in the ball to check level and when I pulled it out the grease dripped on a shop towel, but then again so did the DS. I haven't opened up my tube of grease to compare either. Anyway, it isn't a squeeze it in and never look back cure. |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 09:39 am: |
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I agree. I strongly believe that the only reason LR went to this stuff is its lacking the propensity to leak out. Talk about anti-six sigma and anti-QS! And, you wouldn't believe the standards Ford holds its suppliers to!
I currently use 90 wt, but am considering changing to the John Deere equivalent grease so I can pull my hub seals and bathe my wheel bearings in the same stuff as the swivel balls.
The big thing to keep in mind here is that these vehicles are VERY robust, but they do require lots of attention. If we keep on them, they will last far longer than most other vehicles (even the Saturn!). How do we keep on the swivels? Inspect, inspect, inspect. Pull the top plug and stick a pipe cleaner down in there to see what you have. Any evidence of anything other than oil/grease indicates it's time to drain and start over. If the grease won't flow out fast enough for you, how about a hair dryer? Heat lamp? Viscosity is still inversely proportional to temperature, isn't it?
Far too many soccer moms think they don't have to check this stuff and then complain at repair costs.
Yes, I really do change my swivel oil about every 60 days, if not more often. Diffs too!
Paul |
perroneford
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 09:42 am: |
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Freak! |
Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 10:29 am: |
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Since I've learned the nature of the diffs and swivels I've been doing them about every other month. Adding oil to the DS swivel about once a week. Not sure why but sometimes she leaks like a sieve (sp?) other times there is not a drop, fluid level still fine. Weird wild stuff. But, I figured I'm better off just adding and changing out the oil on a regular basis |
Dee
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 10:40 am: |
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Every 60 days, im not even that anal... LOL
Yeah it�s a stop gap make the grease thicker never mind the seal design has not changed in 20 plus years... Funny all the adverts for the 2003 claim 35 thousand changes...
Paul isn�t the grease water resistant?
Not many water crossings in my area to test it out the emulsified theory. I could play in the surf but the LR will rust fine on its own don�t need to help it out. I got a visual of a soccer Mom crawling under there getting her French manicure dirty checking the viscosity of her swivel grease... LOL
I like the idea of the John Deere stuff let me know how that works.. TTYL |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 11:50 am: |
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Anal, let me remind you I drive nearly one hundred miles each day to work, round trip! I'm going out on a buying trip tonight to get a dozen oil filters-a year's supply! OK, maybe I am anal!
With that many miles, you'd change your oil more often too! Just turned over 150K on Sunday.
As for the John Deere grease, it might be a legend. I heard about it on the Pirates BBS (Kyle, please don't exile me from D-web!), but my lubricant supplier can't seem to find any specs on it, nor a sample from John Deere-but, one of the fellas here at the plant, his father owns a John Deere dealership...
There is a certain appeal to using John Deere grease as our wheel bearings cross to a John Deere tractor, in addition to one ton Dodge trucks!
Peace,
Paul |
Dee
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 02:18 pm: |
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Thts right you'r a road warrior, Should invest in a Quicke Lube franchise.... LOL I used to do a 170 mile round trip each day 80% of the time on my MC... What filters are you looking at? Wix? Purolator? Have you looked into any remote Double filter setup's or a reuseable filter like System 1?... Email me when you get the chance
TTYL |
Gregg Smith (Discogregg)
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 11:34 pm: |
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What is a swivel? |
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