| Author |
Message |
    
Mike J. (Mudd)
| | Posted on Thursday, August 15, 2002 - 11:06 am: | 
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Just replaaced my rear latch and now my rear door finally works, but drivers door is trying not to open from the inside. Will the adjustment rod fix this? I read the posts about turning the adjustment rod and tried it on the passenger side as it wont unlock all the way with the fob. I can open it if I use the key. When I use the fob and pull the handle to open the door it looks like the lock drops down a little and the door wont open. Two more lock problems, glad it's not still three. Any one with help for me? Thanks |
Shane C. (Qsiguy)
| | Posted on Thursday, August 15, 2002 - 09:38 pm: |
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You should pull the door panel and get a visual. You may be able to just adjust it. If it's only with the remote then the problem is in the actuator assembly. The motor just may be going out and it can be replaced quite easily. I sell these actuators for $20 at my electronics shop and they bolt right up to the same holes.
Shane |
Mike J. (Mudd)
| | Posted on Friday, August 16, 2002 - 08:35 am: |
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I tried a new actuator with no luck, What about the barrel adjustment, will it help the inside pull handle on the drivers side? and can the latch asssembly do this like it did on the rear gate? |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Friday, August 16, 2002 - 09:54 am: |
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Mike:
You almost assuredly need to lubricate the latch mechanism. What may be happening is that as the latch corrodes and/or wears, the amount of force necessary to move from one state to another increases dramatically and the actuator no longer has the ability to effect the change.
Do this soon as the next failure you experience will be the cheesy little plastic cam on the back of the lock cylinder breaking. Depending upon how this failure occurs, you may not be able to start the vehicle as the cam may last long enough to arm the alarm, but when you go to unlock... Then, when you open another door to gain access to the vehicle, the alarm goes off and the immobiliser kicks in. At this point, the only way to disable the immobiliser is to open the driver's door from the outside using the key. Since you've broken the cam that actuates the micro-switch that arms and disarms the alarm, now the only way to disarm the alarm is to open up the door panel and while holding the door jamb switch in the closed position, manually actuate the micro-switch. You might be able to get around some of this with the remote, but I don't have one (trail rig) so I can't comment on the mechanical/electronic interaction with respect to broken door locking mechanisms and the alarm.
Anybody care to guess how I learned all of this? Try taking a door panel off in the parking lot of your employer during a rainstorm with only a screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers! Of course, this happened the day I was heading to Detroit on business-Detroit with a truck that can't be locked and valet parking attendants at the hotel!
Oh yeah, this all occurred after I had replaced the actuator with no improvement. I'm on my second cam for the lock cylinder and it broke Monday morning, but this time it broke in two pieces so it doesn't arm the alarm and I can get in otherwise!
If it makes you feel any better, a friend of mine just called for help as his Defender is dead on the side of the highway-he is driving the Defender because his Disco has a cracked brake rotor and he's afraid to drive it! Both of his Rovers are causing him grief! |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Friday, August 16, 2002 - 09:56 am: |
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D'Oh-try adjusting the rod first-while you're at it, lube everything real well. I find a Q-tip works well to get the lube where I need it.
Paul |
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