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Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
Posted on Friday, August 23, 2002 - 04:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I know this question has been on here, I even did a search trying to come up with anything solid, but didn't. I have heard that with my OME HD springs and shocks (N44 and N45f's), that if I remove the rear sway bar that I don't need to extend my brake lines. Then, in contrast, I've heard you must definitely do so. So, does anyone on here have OME s&s and removed their rear sway bar? I was thinking of pulling it off for the weekend to see how uneasy it made me feel if any at all.
 

brian friend
Posted on Friday, August 23, 2002 - 04:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Robert,

I have removed both sway bars and it got real goofy but i drove like that for about 5 months and got used to it. I finally put my fronts back on and I feel like I am driving a race car. I don't think I will take them back off again. I would recomend quick disconects. For the rear....I have a safari gard drop kit and I no sway bars with hd ome springs and shocks and stock brake lines...no problems. The lngth of the ome shock limits my down travel. hope this helps,

brian friend
 

Bruce
Posted on Friday, August 23, 2002 - 04:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Just as Brian indicates, your shock travel and lift will determine the need to extend your brakelines. I have 2" RT lift, but same stock shock length, so no need to worry about extending the lines.
Not sure how far you have lifted, but if it is more than 3 inches, you must have increased shock travel, else why lift and have limited ability to flex. So, over 3", shock travel increased, I would extend.
 

Blue (Bluegill)
Posted on Friday, August 23, 2002 - 06:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

someone please recommend, from personal experience, a good front & rear sway disconnect kit.

muchos thankos
 

brian friend
Posted on Friday, August 23, 2002 - 07:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Blue,

No personal experience here but i am going to make a set. It hould be simple enough...idea is to drill a hole in the existing bolt, add a washer and a pin. Should cost about .30. I'll let you know how it works.

brian friend
 

Blue (Bluegill)
Posted on Friday, August 23, 2002 - 07:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

yeah, I actually already bought big ass cotter pins, but I'm just feeling lazy, so I want someone to do it for me and I'll pay them. but none of that lights camera action hollywood gold chain shit, right Rob? :)
 

Jeff Conrad (Jwconrad)
Posted on Saturday, August 24, 2002 - 03:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Blue, I just bought a pair from Rovertym and I'm very happy with them. I had a hard time parting with 95.00 to get them but they work very well. You could fabricate a set with parts from Tractor supply. There is an tech article on the D-90 source web site on how to make some.

Jeff
 

Ramsay (3toedsloth)
Posted on Saturday, August 24, 2002 - 09:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I made the Lowe's variety last night. $3.00 and they work like champs. Not that the Disco is really articulation inhibited with the sway bars. I've gotten some sick flexes out of my '96 with both sway bars connected. I guess they're just damn impressive vehicles...

JR

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