| Author |
Message |
    
Rick Lindgren (Slacker)
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 27, 2002 - 03:42 pm: | 
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Mongo and Greg,
You both just replaced your front driveshafts, right? One due to Hookes joint disintegration and one due to fear of disintegration. Did you both replace them with standard DII driveshafts or did you find a solution with greasable joints at both ends? Just curious.
Rick |
mongo
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 27, 2002 - 04:56 pm: |
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Hey Rick,
LR replaced my front with a stock, they also gave me a used one that's at a drive line shop and they are making me a one with greaeable u-joints. I had a little problem with LRNA over the GBR rear shaft, so I had to put the rotoflex back on so they (LRNA, not the dealer) would extend my warranty another 50k. THe dealer is going to put the GBR back on when the claim is settled. pretty weird, but I'm getting another 30k of warranty out of the deal...
Frank  |
Gregory W. Davis (Gregdavis)
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 28, 2002 - 09:44 am: |
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Rick, I found out that the front greasable joint on the DSII front prop shaft will actually fit the DC joint (it would just take 2 of them). I informed my dealer of this and suggested that instead of replacing the entire shaft, just put two LR greasable joints (P/N TVC100010) in my existing shaft.
Great they said, sounds like a good idea. But the LR regional rep said no way. Not standard procedure and won't be covered under warranty. Only the entire ass'y can be replaced.
So, they put in a brand new shaft. The LR joints are almos $125 each, so if you want greasable joints in the DC joint, get them from Bill @ GBR. He sells the spicer version (stronger than stock) for $39.99. Or you can go to NAPA and use P/N 344 for $25 each. Personally, I think I'd go with teh spicers (whick I will eventually do). |
Kyle
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 28, 2002 - 10:24 am: |
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Keep in mmind that the shaft they put in is no different then the one you took out. Just resets the clock....
Kyle |
Gregory W. Davis (Gregdavis)
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 28, 2002 - 12:41 pm: |
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Yep, that's why the greasable joints are on my "A" list now. Just need the time to do it, but it won't be too far off. |
Rick Lindgren (Slacker)
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 28, 2002 - 01:27 pm: |
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Greg D.,
Is that $39.99 for a complete spicer solution or $39.99 per joint and you need two? Is this something that you can do yourself or does the shaft have to be balanced etc. afterwards? I've never done any mods to a driveshaft before, so what's involved.
Thanks,
Rick |
Rick Lindgren (Slacker)
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 28, 2002 - 01:32 pm: |
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Mongo,
What was the cost of the GBR rear driveshaft and what was involved with installation? It doesn't make any sense to keep replacing rotoflexes if the cost of a new u-jointed driveshaft is reasonable.
This may already be covered in somebody's tech section, so feel free to point me in the right direction if it is already written up somewhere.
Thanks,
Rick |
Matt Milbrandt (95discovery)
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 28, 2002 - 01:41 pm: |
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I just put 3 greaseable Spicer joints in my DII shaft. I had never messed with a DC joint before, but it wasn't bad at all. $39.99 is for one u-joint, you need 3.
Also, the GBR rear DC shaft is $399.
Matt |
Gregory W. Davis (Gregdavis)
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 28, 2002 - 01:43 pm: |
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Thanks Matt.  |
Kyle
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 28, 2002 - 01:58 pm: |
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You know Matt , for the longest time we were told to toss the Cardan shafts and just replace them with new ones when a joint went bad... Very few shops would actually rebuild them. I remember the first one I did years ago and thinking that same thing..... "Why the hell havnt we been doing this all along??" It does make it easier with a ball joint press or the like...
kyle |
Rick Lindgren (Slacker)
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 28, 2002 - 04:48 pm: |
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Matt,
Is one of these what you installed?
http://www.spicerdriveshaft.com/cardan/cardan-light.html
Could you send me an e-mail letting me know what you had to do? My address is in my profile.
Also, there is a DC joint at the link above. Would the Spicer DC be an improvement or just the same problem from a different manufacturer?
Thanks for all of the input. I am trying to get better at actually understanding how my truck is built and what it does rather than just turning the key and going until it breaks.
Rick |
Matt Milbrandt (95discovery)
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 28, 2002 - 06:41 pm: |
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Rick,
You have mail.
Matt |
Rick Lindgren (Slacker)
| | Posted on Thursday, August 29, 2002 - 06:27 pm: |
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Thanks for the input everyone. One last question. How do you replace the rear drive shaft with a U-joint instead of roto. Is it a matter of unbolting one and bolting in the other or did you replace the third member (I think that's what it's called. The diff side of the shaft.)?
Thanks again,
Rick |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Thursday, August 29, 2002 - 06:33 pm: |
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Matt... would you mind posting the info for the rest of us lurking?
Thanks |
Matt Milbrandt (95discovery)
| | Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 01:48 am: |
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I would like to make it clear that I don't have the shaft on the truck yet. I am still waiting on a couple new seals from Nathan before I can put it back on, but I do have the shaft with the Spicer u-joints in it sitting on my work bench totally done. I didn't get the u-joints from GBR, and I don't really want to post the part number since I don't want to take business away from Bill. I mean, it's not at all hard to find out what the number is, I just don't want to hand it out so everyone can get them locally and undercut Bill.
Matt |
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