| Author |
Message |
    
Jay R
| | Posted on Thursday, August 29, 2002 - 07:50 pm: | 
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Hi,
Its time to change the brakes in my 97 Discovery I. I think I need to swap out both the pads and the rotors. I would like to try out the DBA slotted/cross-drilled rotors that DAP and GBR sells.
Does anyone have any feedback on them from relatively long term usage? Is it a direct replacement kit or does it require any modifications? I would probably by happy if it offers the performance of the OEM setup without fading. I have had quit a few brake fading episodes in my Disco. I can put up with a bit of squealing if I have to.
Any thoughts?
Would I be better off with the OEM setup?
Also, I am planning on doing this in my garage. I do have the workshop manual and have already ordered the Motive Power Bleeder. Any special tools required? Has anyone published a DIY page for the brake job on a D1?
Thanks.
Jay. |
Glenn Guinto (Glenn)
| | Posted on Thursday, August 29, 2002 - 08:11 pm: |
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Jay,
Al Hang has a detailed step by step article in his website which I've used a couple times. He doesn't have the Rotor swap though.
Just a thought on the slotted rotors, I don't have first hand experience with them but I would think if you wheel in muddy/rocky/sandy areas, you would catch a lot of crap in the holes and cause premature wear on your pads. FWIW...
-glenn |
alhang
| | Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 09:52 am: |
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http://www.people.vcu.edu/~ahang/Bearings/bearingsandmore.htm
there's the link to the unfinished write-up. it's just pics, been too lazy to make any other changes and i can't access my server from work cause our firewall guy is a little too overly protective.
To answer your questions you will need the Hub nut tool - dap has one that's real cheap, a set of metric wrenches and sockets, grease to repack the wheel bearings, some type of cords to keep the brake caliper hanging, and maybe a new set of seals while your are already there? It's a really simple job, I did my bearings at the same time which took the majority of my time.
I like the setup, noticed a better bite and less fade. The kevlar pads from DAP are great, just a little pricey. And when they are cold they do squeal a little but not much. just email me if you have any other questions. |
Neil Flanagan (Electriceel)
| | Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 11:22 am: |
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Mine squeal like a pig, but the performance gains have been so great it doesn't bother me. No fade and the truck stops in 3/4 to 1/2 the distance of stock 'when you really need to'. I have them on my Disco and D90.
As already stated, if you're doing the rotors, now is a good time to do the bearings(and check the CVs if you are really ambitious). Rotors are one thing the manual does a pretty good job of describing.
I wouldn't worry about premature wear from offroading debris in the slots and holes. After 3 trips in southern Vermont mud and rocks in the 90, I havent experenced them filling with crap. I would sugest taking off the shields to the rotors if you havent already.
Neil
94 D90 #1092
97 Disco |
Buddy
| | Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 11:42 am: |
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Is it necessary to fit the back with slotted/cross-drilled rotors as well? Or is that overkill? |
alhang
| | Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 01:37 pm: |
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i don't really think it's overkill. although you will notice greater benefit from the front, if your rear rotors are shot, might as well go for the drilled rears too. I think the price difference is pretty neglible. |
Todd Sanders (Sanderskog)
| | Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 01:57 pm: |
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Extreme overkill. My other hobby involves a '68 BMW 2002 track toy and cross drilled rotors on the rear are nothing more than neat to look at. True, the BMW weighs a hell of a lot less but my statement still applies. If the price is the same I'd say got for it. Otherwise IMO you're just paying money for the look.
If you want real improvements then vented rotors would be the best option. Although I don't know that they are available and they typically require new calipers.
Also - cross drilled rotors have a tendancy to crack at the drilling point under extreme heat. A LR typically won't generate the heat necessary but I'm not sure I'd want to heat the brakes up real good and then do a water crossing.
Todd |
JayR
| | Posted on Friday, August 30, 2002 - 03:41 pm: |
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Hello All.
Thanks for the information. It looks something that I can tackle. I think I will go ahead and do the DBA rotor/pads install.
Al - Thanks for the offer to answer questions by email. I will take you up on the offer if I come across any problems in the process.
Thanks.
Jay |
Grady Huber (Grady)
| | Posted on Monday, September 02, 2002 - 07:52 pm: |
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I agree and disagree with you Todd. Your right about the vented rotors cooling better than cross-drilled. The problem is getting vented rotors for the rear of most cars. The rear rotors of most cars, including Discos, are too thin to to make them vented, so they are solid. Because they are so small and thin, they really heat up, fade, and eventually warp. I've got this problem on my Disco now, and also had it on a BMW E30 M3 I used for autocrossing. Also seen it on my friend's Benz.
The solution on the Bimmer was cross-drillled rears for better cooling. When I get some extra cash, the Disco's getting them too.
My 2 cents is that alot of people are running around with "bad vibes" that they can't get rid of on their Discos, when in fact they have warped rotors that need to be replaced. You can feel the warping more with Discos than alot of other cars because our calipers are solid mounts. Most good designs like my M3 have floating calipers, which help, but you can still feel things at higher speeds. Besides why put on factory rotors? They are just going to warp again! |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Monday, September 02, 2002 - 08:09 pm: |
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Grady, be glad you have floating calipers. BMW didn't import the E36 M3's or M Roadsters with the floating calipers to the US. I don't know about the E46 M3's but my guess is they're not floating either here in the US but I could be wrong. |
Sanderskog
| | Posted on Monday, September 02, 2002 - 08:12 pm: |
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I've always loved the E30 M3. Unfortuantely my pocket book would never allow me to get one. To purchase they are reasonable, it's the maintenance that would kill me. Cross drilled rotors will allow some additional cooling at higher speeds, I just don't think they make that much of a difference on a Disco though. That being said, if they are the same or cheaper that OEM I'd go for them if they quality is there. The do tend to crack though although the only time I have seen them do so is on the track (mostly on M3's ironically).
Todd |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Monday, September 02, 2002 - 08:16 pm: |
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I agree with Todds comment about the use of cross drilled rotors (not the cost of maintianing an E30 M3  ). Would cross drilled or slotted rotors help in dusty or sandy areas? I'm just wondering what other applications they *might* have in a Disco. The only time I would think they might help in a Disco is in mountain areas or when towing heavy loads. |
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