| Author |
Message |
    
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 04, 2002 - 07:48 pm: | 
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i put the new serp belt on , thanks for the instructions those who helped, but something sounds funny. The belt is really tight. Does it need time to loosen up? Also the part that is on the tensioner doesn't ride down the middle but kind of goes back towards the engine a little. It sounds like the fan is hitting something or some ticking type noise.
any ideas on what to check |
Kyle
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 04, 2002 - 07:54 pm: |
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Check to make sure its in the grooves properly..
Kyle |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 04, 2002 - 08:14 pm: |
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its on properly i believe , it may be off by one on the alternator though, going to far inward that might be why the belt runs a little inward on the tensioner.
Can the belt be to tight??????? |
kyle
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 04, 2002 - 08:40 pm: |
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No , the tensioner dictates it. But you gotta get it in the grooves right man... You cant just say ."Well its just a little off"...
kyle |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 04, 2002 - 10:02 pm: |
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it kind of smells like burning rubber a little bit also
does it matter which side is on the outside? does it have any directional thing to it?
this sux |
Scott Hayes (Scott_H)
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 04, 2002 - 10:44 pm: |
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make sure the grooves on the belt line up with the grooves on the pullys, it sounds like its slipping. I just did mine this weekend, and no problems. |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 04, 2002 - 11:20 pm: |
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does anyone know the exact land rover product # for a serpintine belt for a disco
maybe it was the wrong one or something
but i doubt it because it went on
ahhhhhhhhh 
this just plain sucks
that says this just plain sucks in greek , lol |
Kyle
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 08:51 am: |
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Did you correct it on the damn grooves in the pulleys ?
Kyle |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 09:20 am: |
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Also - recheck your routing via the diagram - it must be exact.
If the idler pulley is not centered on the belt - then like Kyle said - something is off a groove.
Bill |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 12:10 pm: |
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everything is exact i checked it again and it runs , but it is not center on the "idler pulley"
i am going to take it off and do it over again today and see if that will fix it |
Jorge
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 12:24 pm: |
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I have a related question!
a strange noise is coming from the tensioner in my Disco II, and last weekend I removed it and cleaned the pulley. I put it back and it still continued to make the noise. it is a very annoying sound that comes when I apply gas and disappears. it also makes the sound when I apply the brakes. I am very positive that the noise is coming from the pulley at the tensioner and from the pulley just below it (smaller one).
any thoughts??
Jorge |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 01:01 pm: |
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Jorge -bearing is going (they last a long time making noise BTW) There was a DII recall on this a while back, but it is equally as common on D1's
See the Dweb cross ref page for the Napa bearing p/n and replace just the bearing not the $$ tensioner. This is the bearing for the D1 tensioner - not sure if it is the same D2
Bill |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 02:31 pm: |
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ok on the serpintine belt problem i may have the answer
On my tensioner it seems to not even have a bearing in it at all. i can lift the wheel off the pin that it spins on about 1/2" which is a pretty good bit , do i need a bearing? did mine magically explode?
or are you supposed to be able to do this |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 02:37 pm: |
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Shouldn't wobble at all -sounds like your bearing ate itself. It'll only take about 1/2 hr to replace and even less if you have a press (if not, vice will do)
Bearing is about $9
Bill |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 02:42 pm: |
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where should i get it from
Napa ? |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 02:49 pm: |
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i looked up part # 6203-2RSJ which was given when i did a keyword search for a napa part, but napa's website couldn't find it |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 02:51 pm: |
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Napa has it for sure......... they might just go by 6203
Bill |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 03:00 pm: |
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Half hour? It took me about 15 minutes tops! The worst part is getting the damned snap-ring out as it doesn't have holes for the pliers. Use two screwdrivers and be careful, that retainer could take an eye out.
Oh yeah, don't run with scissors. I feel like I'm at work... That's right, I am at work!
As for NAPA's website, don't even bother! |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 03:02 pm: |
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One more thing, Thanx for suggesting I replace the bearing in the tensioner Bill. It wasn't the root cause, but inspection of the old bearing showed it to be severely worn. |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 03:19 pm: |
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the napa guys don't have a clue
anyone got the part #
or should I call back and ask for someone with some sense |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 03:29 pm: |
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I took the tensioner wheel off and it had no bearing in it. It had the inner ring of a bearing and 2 rings that looked like it went on the outside of the bearing and that was all so i guess it is the bearing but now the question is where do i get another one
maybe is it one of these (this is what i could find from NAPA)
NAPA Bearings P/S Pump Shaft Bearing
Usually ships in 24 hours. BRG62032RSJ $ 9.49
NAPA Bearings Clutch Pilot Bearing
Usually ships in 24 hours. BRG62032RSJ $ 9.49
NAPA Bearings Alternator Bearing - Front
Usually ships in 24 hours. BRG62032RSJ $ 9.49
NAPA Bearings Alternator Bearing - Rear
Usually ships in 24 hours. BRG62032RSJ $ 9.49
NAPA Bearings Generator Bearing - Front
Usually ships in 24 hours. BRG62032RSJ $ 9.49
NAPA Bearings A/C Comp Clutch Bearing
Usually ships in 24 hours. BRG62032RSJ $ 9.49
NAPA Bearings Generator Bearing
Usually ships in 24 hours. BRG62032RSJ $ 9.49 |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 03:50 pm: |
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Just walk into Napa and ask for a 6203 bearing!
Ummm - just looked at your list - 6203-2RSJ -
right there in black and white........
"NAPA Bearings A/C Comp Clutch Bearing
Usually ships in 24 hours. BRG62032RSJ $ 9.49"
Paul - glad to hear it hope you avoided a future problem with your rig! I only said 1/2 hour for those that may be less "handy" 
Bill |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 04:04 pm: |
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Unfortunately, the root cause was a bad bearing in the PS pump. I'm sitting here at work praying that when I get home there is a new (boneyard) pump on the backporch, or perhaps a box with the new bearing in it. If neither, it will be an evening of perfecting fabricating skills to put the Saginaw pump on. I'm going nuts driving my sister's farm truck and my camp truck has appliances on the back of it and the wife and kid don't want to help unload.
Last night, got home late and a little drunk as I was having too much fun at my friend's house-the guy who works at the industrial power transmission shop, and wouldn't you know it, two days in a row, I've forgotten to bring the front driveshaft for him to build me a DC joint for it, but he's coming over Sunday evening to measure my brake lines to replace them all with stainless. I hope to have stainless brake lines with stainless fittings too by the end of next week! I'll have the power steering lines tonight though. With stainless braid sheathing!
Oh yeah, I will also have some more cross references for the table.
Paul |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 04:45 pm: |
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Hope you'll document the Saginaw install - are you using a pressure reducing valve at the LR box?
PS - I'd stick with standard rubber covered 100R1 hose - that showy braid isn't getting you much and you lose teh abrasion resistance where the hoses touch one another (unless you sleeve them, in which case you lose the fancy show braid anyway).
Bill |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 07:08 pm: |
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my bad man they all say 62032RSJ it confused me , anyways i guess its the same bearing huh?
ok once i get this bearing from napa
which will prolly be a week or less
anyways
does anyone know some instructions on how to put it in and with what, i don't have many tools down here in auburn with me
thanks |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 08:24 am: |
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Blake, you'll just need to press the old bearing shell out and the new complete bearing back in. I assume you don't have access to a press, so a vice will do - just pick a socket of about the correct diameter and press in/out. It is a light friction fit (very light - not much pressure is needed). Just make sure it goes in square and press it until it seats completely.
Bill |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 09:28 am: |
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Blake:
I used a hammer and punch.
To remove the old bearing, first off, spray whatever aerosol penetrant/cleaner/degreaser you prefer and clean the groove. Now ,pry a small screwdriver into the gap where the edge of the snap ring ends. Carefully pry away from the outer edge, inward. Once you get a small gap, slide another screwdriver into that gap and pry up to pull the snap ring up away from the bearing. Place your hand over the snap ring so it won't fly out. Grab the end of the snap ring with a pair of tiny vice-grips and pull the snap-ring out. Be careful with it as you'll need to put it back in.
Now, turn the pulley over and gently drive the old bearing race out using a brass punch-as you said you only have parts of the old bearing, you may have to improvise with this. Take care not to tear up the surface of the pulley where the bearing runs. Once you have the bearing out, clean up the inside surface, wipe a tiny amount of white grease on the outside edge, place the bearing into the recess and very carefully and gently drive the bearing into the recess. Reinstall the snap-ring, put some anti-seize on the threads of the retaining bolt and tighten!
Bill-I have been conferring with some folks about the pressure difference. Most don't seem to think that the ~300 psi difference will be a major problem. I have found the displacement per revolution information for the ZF pumps, but have not had the same luck with the Saginaws. To a great extent, I'm willing to give it a shot just to see if it works. Last night, I worked on the brackets for a little while and found to my amazement that rather than not having enough room between the block and the edge of the drive pulley, I will need to make up an even wider spacer than I had originally thought! A high-class problem, eh? If I'd had the correct pulley last night, I'd be driving the Rover today! I threatened to cut down my spare serpentine belt to make it work! I came to my senses!
Paul |
Mike Rupp (Mike_Rupp)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 09:54 am: |
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Paul,
I wouldn't trust the steering box to handle the 1500psi from a Saginaw pump. The stock pumps put about 1100psi. That's a 36% increase in pressure. Just to be safe, I'd look into a relief valve. |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 09:57 am: |
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Paul - sounds good that it is coming together. What are yu doing about a pulley for the sag? Are you reusing the ZF pulley (doubt the bore is the same) or do you have an appropriate groove width Sag pulley?
Bill |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 11:45 am: |
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Bill and Mike:
I have been conferring with a fellow in Oz who tells me this is an almost common swap over there as their pumps die early deaths. From what I've been told, no one has bothered to reduce the outlet pressure and I have yet to hear of a failure. Just so you know I haven't been ignoring you, I spoke with my hydraulic shop friend last night and he felt that given the high pressures involved in hydraulic systems and the over-building that occurs as a result, he didn't think it would cause any catastrohic failures. I have however also heard accounts of folks who have cut a few turns off of one of the springs in the outlet valve to reduce the pressure, but everybody I've questioned on this thought it was untrue.
I have seen listings from ZF pumps that put their output pressure to be in the range of 1100-1150 and the outlet pressures of the Saginaws to be in the 1450 range. I know we are splitting hairs with high pressures-OK, I am! The ZF appears to displace about 4.5 ml per revolution-anybody know the per revolution displacement for the Sags?
Pulleys: In an unbelievable quirk of fate, it appears as though the hub on the ZF that supports the pulley will fit on the shaft of the Saginaw! They both have an 11/16" ID and are pressed on. I'm expecting a problem with removing the hub from the ZF, but expect to be able to use the GM install tool to push it back onto the Saginaw pump. I don't know if it would be easier to try to press the hub onto the Saginaw, or try to source a GM pulley for a 1" belt. When one walks into Billie Bob's parts house and tells them he wants a pulley that is 1" wide to fit on a Saginaw pump, they look at you with complete astonishment!
If I only had more time...
Paul |
Dee
| | Posted on Saturday, September 07, 2002 - 12:31 am: |
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Hey Paul on the tensioner for my 97 serp belt is there a bearing replacement for the wheel it sounds bad and feels worse when i roll it... |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Saturday, September 07, 2002 - 12:56 pm: |
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Napa part #
BRG62032RSJ
it will pull up about 7 diff titles of bearings but there the same
www.napaautoparts.com |
Dee
| | Posted on Saturday, September 07, 2002 - 04:57 pm: |
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Blake was that for me? |
Rich Lee
| | Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2002 - 02:21 am: |
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Hi All,
I didn't know this post also dealt with bearings as well, or I wouldn't have bothered with my question yesterday.
The NAPA part # 6203-2RSJ (a SKF bearing) is absolutely correct, My wife picked up 2 at the local store yesterday (the other is for her Rangie).
It really is easy to replace and Paul's instructions are accurate. For a "bearing driver", I simply used the same 1-1/16" socket I use for my lugnuts...perfect fit.
Sometimes it's a pain to crank the tensioner over enough to replace the serp belt. Sliding your jack handle over your ratchet makes a convenient "cheater stick" for the job (which took 12 minutes).
Thanks for the info |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2002 - 06:14 pm: |
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yeah dee that was for u man |
Bill K (Bill_K)
| | Posted on Monday, September 09, 2002 - 08:04 am: |
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Blake, reading from your earlier post, am I to assume that all those different pulleys on the Disco take the same bearings? |
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