| Author |
Message |
    
Jack (Olered)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 12:10 pm: | 
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Which wires would I need to tap into? I would like to have three settings:
position 1-ON
position 2-ON-turns on with back up lights
position 3-ALL OFF
Anyone have this?
Thanks |
ken
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 12:28 pm: |
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You would need one relay and a diode. The only wire you would have to trace is the back-up lights. Wire the relay with a switch on the ground wire. Then wire the Pos. side of the relay to what ever it is you want to turn on you work light. now find your reverse light and tap into it put a diode and run that to the same place as the pos. wire on you relay. Now what this does is: To turn off the circuit completely turn off the switch that the ground controls. If you have that switch off you back up lights work as normal. Turn the switch on and the "on" switch and just the work lights will come on not the factory back up lights. Next put the car in reverse and all the light will light up.
hope that helps
ken |
Carl E. Cedeholm (Cederholm)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 12:38 pm: |
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Ken,
That's a great circuit! You should draw a simple diagram and toss it up in the tech section...I bet a lot of people would use it...like ME! 
just a thought.
Carl |
ken
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 12:42 pm: |
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I suck at viso. Mabey if Shane reads this he can do it. He has made some nice drawings in the past |
Shane C. (Qsiguy)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 12:28 am: |
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Sure I can make a diagram for that. I have a question tho Ken. Maybe I am missing something in your description but why are you connecting to the reverse lights? Sounds to me that to get the OEM reverse lights to come on you are putting the rig in reverse which would turn on the reverse lights anyway. If you have the switch on it just turns on the work lights then put it in reverse to turn on reverse lights so they are all on. Clarify this for me and I'll draw one up.
Jack, your discription shows 3 settings, does this mean you are going to, or want to use a 3 position switch? If so the are several simple ways to make that work.
Shane |
ken
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 12:57 am: |
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Don't know he said he wanted them to come on with the reverse lights. I figure he would like them to always be off. when he gets to the trail he would turn them on then they would automaticaly turn on with the reverse lights for extra back-up lights. (I assume these lights are on the rear of his rack). Lastly he would like to control them independantly of the reverse lihgts.
ken |
Shane C. (Qsiguy)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 01:12 am: |
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Oh, I get it. I thought he wanted them to come on when he fliped a switch to one position then in position #2 turn on reverse and work light. So what you are saying is he want's work lights with a switch on dash and reverse lights and work lights for extra lighting while reversing.
OK, I'll whip up a diagram for that.
Shane |
Shane C. (Qsiguy)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 01:52 am: |
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Ok, is this what you had in mind Ken?
http://www.c4caraudio.com/diagrams.htm
Click on the link "How to wire additional reverse lights/work lights"
Shane |
ken
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 02:09 am: |
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thats exactly what I was thinking
ken |
Todd Phenneger
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 06:16 am: |
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One question,
Can you do that with one 3-pos switch? I've never used a three position so just checking. I like the idea though. Very simple.
Does anyone know of any good ground and +12v taps under the dash of the Disco. Rangies seem to have lots but I didn't see any in a quick inspection of the disco.
Thanks
Todd |
Rans (Rans)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 07:44 am: |
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Wow Shane, that's great work. I'm guessing that the 3 pos switch is shown in it's seperate functions here, but it leaves me confused as to how one wires the 3 pos switch? |
Markd1x2 (Markd1x2)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 08:16 am: |
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As far as +12v taps go ...
For the lights 12v "supply" you should run a fused line directly from the battery to the new relay contact that controls the lights. If you tap into other circuits, you risk blowing their fuse and/or wiring. For the new light control relay coil +12v, you can tap into the controlling light circuit. The 2nd switch down on the left binnacle (above audio volume controls) is connected to the second wire in on the connector near the rear door hinge (i'm talking about a '97 D1). I used a VOM to find out which wire it was and then put the relay in the area where the right rear lights are. The connector in there has the, (I believe its white/orange) wire you're looking for that will give you the rear "extra" lights. I used the heavier +12v "supply" wiring for electric brakes that the previous owner had installed. I found a relatively small diameter #10 braided wire that is chemical (oil, gas) resistant to do the external wiring up to the rack.... And I used a #6 braided wire to ground the entire rack so that I only need to run a #10 "hot" line to the front of the rack for those lights and a separate #10 to the rear of the rack (up along the rear door hinge). If I get a chance, I'll see if i can open up the panel to the area where the connector is to check that i've given the correct wire color... but I think its the second one in on the connector... just check them with a VOM until you find the one that's controlled by the binnacle switch.
So far, my lights are working fine.... I also intalled a secondary rocker switch in the back to overide the binnacle switch. I may use a diode circuit so that I can use the lights without having to turn on the headlights and/or engine... The diode will keep the battery +12v from turning on the other "extra" lights controlled by the binnacle switch.
Of course adding all these lights means I/we will most likely need another "lights" battery and an alternator upgrade. |
Jack (Olered)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 09:09 am: |
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That's great!
Thanks all! |
Carl E. Cedeholm (Cederholm)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 09:15 am: |
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Nice work guys.
Thanks!
Carl |
Shane C. (Qsiguy)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 09:57 am: |
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In my diagram (Ken's design) the 2 switches are separate switches, not a 3 position switch. I'll have to give it some thought on how to use a 3 position switch, you may have to use additional relays to use the 3 position switch. I'm heading out to the office now so I'll have to do it later.
Shane |
Todd Phenneger
| | Posted on Saturday, September 07, 2002 - 02:48 am: |
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In regards to +12v taps and grounds go.
I've posted this message MANY times and Markd1x2 is the first reply I have gotten. Thanks Mark, you gave me some more ideas :-)
However, my question still resides.
1) ARe there ANY +12v (switched or non switched) power taps under the dash. The Range Rover has this feature, fusable and ready to go so you dont always have to run new wires up to the battery.
2) Are there any good factory ground locations under dash? I know I can screw into metal somewhere, but my Audi's allhave common ground points that usually have a few open terminals which is very helpful.
Thanks
Todd |
Shane C. (Qsiguy)
| | Posted on Saturday, September 07, 2002 - 07:58 pm: |
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I haven't found any "taps" under the dash of my 95 D1. If the connection is "non critical" you can just use the 3M T-Taps on the ignition wires and you can get accessory power, ignition, constant, or crank power. I say "non critical" because the 3M taps are pretty good but I wouldn't use them for something that may cause a safety hazard should a connection fail. Also I wouldn't use the main ignition switch wires for anything that draws over 20-25 amps. If you want an easy ground there are many bolts to attach a ground wire too but I prefer to clean the metal and install my own ground screw or bolt.
Shane |
Todd P
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 10, 2002 - 01:45 pm: |
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thanks,
I just assumed there was a factor grounding point you could tap into. Oh well.
l8r
Todd |
Jack (Olered)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 12, 2002 - 02:02 pm: |
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I've wired everything and it works. Thanks all. Now for another question:
is there some type of wiring/fuse "block" that can be used for accessories?
I'm picturing a block that would allow me to connect all of my accessories to the block and have only one wire to the battery? Like a distribution block. |
Mohan (Mohan)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 12, 2002 - 03:04 pm: |
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Have a look at a marine supply store. I have bought 12v power bars/strips there in the past for the boats I worked on to provide more places to run electrics from. The ones I used had about a dozen or so contact points that you could screw a wire into.
Stephen |
Shane C. (Qsiguy)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 12, 2002 - 03:37 pm: |
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Yes, I have a bunch of those type of accessories that we use for custom sound and security systems. How many outputs, amp rating, wire gauge, etc. do you need. Here are some examples.
http://www.scosche.com/efx/products/power/P48ATCFDE.asp
http://www.scosche.com/efx/products/power/PDM48x4.asp
http://www.c4caraudio.com/tech/atc_fuse_block.jpg
(this one is $20 and prob. best for basic uses)
Shane
c4caraudio |
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