| Author |
Message |
    
Steve Andrews (Sillybus)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 05, 2002 - 09:18 pm: | 
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OK, please bear with me on this one.
I understand that as pads wear, the indicators rub and cause squeal. What I don't understand, is how a pad on the backs of the brakes can keep them from squealing when the pads are servicable. Does it have something to do with vibration transfer through the metal similar to when you rub your finger around the rim of a leaded crystal wine glass?
Please educate the village idiot. |
Steve Andrews (Sillybus)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 08:33 am: |
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Anyone?
And when I attempt to change the rear pads this weekend by myself, is there anything else I should look at? How do I tell if my rotors need replacing etc. |
Carl E. Cedeholm (Cederholm)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 09:30 am: |
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Steve,
Someone around here will give you better info than I, but....Yes the wear indicators squeal when pads are low, but the anti squeal pads/goo on the back are for a different squeal. I forget the mechanics behind the squeal but someone here will tell you.
The minimum rotor thickness is stamped on the inside of the rotor, you can check it when you are changing the pads. you can also check for warpage or cracks in the rotor.
..otherwise the pads are a very easy fix.
Carl |
perroneford
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 09:30 am: |
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Your first answer to your own question was correct.
As for your second question, changing the pads is as easy as falling off a log. You need to measure your rotors to see if they need replacing.
-P |
Steve Andrews (Sillybus)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 09:41 am: |
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Thanks guys!
Now, if i am going to go purchase a caliper (measuring kind) to do this job, is there anything I should look for so that I will have a good tool for working on my disco and maybe other things? For instance, are some of the specs on thicknesses and gapage in mm in the workshop manual? Basically, who makes a good tool that I can find at Lowe's or Advanced Auto? |
perroneford
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 10:57 am: |
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You can't find good tools at Lowe's or Advanced Auto. At least not for precision measuring.
You want good measuring tools? Remember these names:
Mitutoyo
Starret
Brown & Sharpe
I'd suggest you either order new (expensive) or try ebay or other tool auction place. There are LOTS of these things around.
And yes, all your measurements for thicknesses and gaps are in the workshop manual. I take it you don't have one of those yet. GET ONE! It really helps out a lot.
-P |
todd slater (Toddslater)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 11:21 am: |
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For the "precision" needed for checking caliper thickness and probably anything you would be attempting without the aid of a good machine shop at the helm....go to sears hardware a pick it up... cost $20/$25. |
James M. Eaglesome (Jme)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 11:51 am: |
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I had my 45,000 service done at the dealer and one of the problems I have been having is the brake squeal. The dealer tells me my brakes have over 50% left on them and that the squeal is something that all Discoveries have. I have had this problem since I purchased the vehicle one year ago and I find it hard to believe that a vehihcle of this price has a constant squel problem. Is this true? and if not what do I need to do?
Thanks
James |
Carl E. Cedeholm (Cederholm)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 12:02 pm: |
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James,
Had the same situation, and same dealer responce. I took the glaze off the pads.
I pulled the pads, scuffed them up with medium grit sandpaper and put them back on.
It's been fine for the last 8,000 miles
Carl |
James M. Eaglesome (Jme)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 12:25 pm: |
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Thanks Carl, will do |
James M. Eaglesome (Jme)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 12:28 pm: |
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One more thing I forgot to mention, the dealer also informed me that the drums cannot be turned because they are made of some composite material. He further informed me that when they are worn out they need to be replaced at a cost of $600 for the rear and the same for the front. Is this bull or what? |
Carl E. Cedeholm (Cederholm)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 12:30 pm: |
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James,
a couple of tips.
-use a sanding block
-work in small circles
-don't forget a mask
-mine had been the rear set only...had I known it would have saved me from doing the front.
Good luck
Carl |
Glenn Guinto (Glenn)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 12:56 pm: |
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...and Carl drives it like a race car... !
-glenn
Steve, hope that manual helps... Even I was able to change my brakes before...(I'm not really known for being mechanically inclined) BTW, I still have a couple of manuals left if you know anyone that wants one... (shameless plug...hehehe) |
Carl E. Cedeholm (Cederholm)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 01:21 pm: |
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James,
Not drums...your Disco is all disc...but you knew that
..but I hear the discs are to thin for turning, you will have to replace them when the time comes.
Glenn,
It's the color...the Kinversand just LOOKS faster. |
Steve Andrews (Sillybus)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 02:12 pm: |
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Glenn: You have NO idea the amount of work I've been able to do with that manual. I am not really mechanically inclined either. In fact, the only thing I've ever done prior to buying the Disco a few weeks ago is changing spark plugs on a Chevy a long time ago.
With your manual, I've been able to fix the rear door lock, one of the passenger door locks and am going to use it this weekend to service the rear brakes and replace the pads and try to trace my problem of why my cruise control just quit on me.
I'd have to agree that those manuals are worth much more than what I paid for it. Its already paid for itself in saved labor.
Also, I've invested in an ODB-II cable to hook up to the laptop. Obviously I'm going to either force my way into the gear-head club or be a grease monkey poseur. LOL |
Neil Flanagan (Electriceel)
| | Posted on Friday, September 06, 2002 - 02:22 pm: |
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You can also try:
Tapering the leading edge on the pad with a file. This stops the trailing edge of the pad from rotating upwards and allowing more vibration.
I haven't tried these, but NAPA should sell brake pad shims which are an adhesive pad that sticks to the back of the brake pad to prevent squeal.
Wurth DBQ2200. Works better than the spray. It has an applicator like shoe polish.
Neil |
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