| Author |
Message |
    
Arman
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 11, 2002 - 11:24 am: | 
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Dear Discowebers,
Seeking some advice on how to best maintain the chassis on my D2. I was underneath changing the oil and noticed a lot of surface rust (not to excessive) on the chassis frame and a few of the members where the factory undercoating had just peeled off. Two options exist, I can apply a synthetic rust check coat on the chassis which will penetrate and basically put the rust at bay, or I can sand blast the rust spots clean, and apply two coats of undercoat paint. I intend to keep the truck along time.
Any suggestions from experience are welcome.
Regards,
Arman. |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 11, 2002 - 12:02 pm: |
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I would use waxoyl or equivalent and plan on recoating every couple years. The advantage of waxoyl is that it can be sprayed inside the frame rails to get the rust that you can't see, but is much more damaging than the surface stuff you see now.
Other option is to have the entire truck Ziebarted - don't laugh! - i've seen it do wonders for quite a few vehicles. Though you'd still need to recoat the frame as off-roading tends to scrape off anything |
dan
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 11, 2002 - 07:33 pm: |
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Arman, have you ever driven your DII on the snow?
Bill, what the heck is ziebart? |
niall forbes (Forbesn)
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 11, 2002 - 09:23 pm: |
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Yes, that DII has seen snow. No doubt!
I say paint it with some rust paint, and then get it rust checked. I forget if you're still under warranty or not. If you are, I believe only Crown rust proving is LR approved. I prefer Rust Check. |
Arman
| | Posted on Thursday, September 12, 2002 - 11:23 am: |
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Dan,
The D2 has seen lots of snow. Niall thanks for the advice, I think I 'll take have the surface rust sand blasted off, re-paint those spots with Tremclad, then get it rust checked.
Cheers,
Arman |
niall forbes (Forbesn)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 12, 2002 - 12:50 pm: |
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I think if you keep on top of it and make sure to keep the innards rust checked, you'll be fine. As Bill pointed out, these things rust out from the inside. The exterior rust is mainly just ugly. Just by noticing it and being concerned about it, you're already doing better than 99% of the LR drivers on the road. You could try some cold galvanising spray, but I'm not sure it would be worth it. Unless you can get it "on sale" from the office ;-) |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 12, 2002 - 12:58 pm: |
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That's why I mentioned waxoyl sprayed into the frame rails! The outside stuff is purely cosmetic (at least now). Sandblasting, etc the exterior seems a bit extreme for some surface rusting.
You also have the insides of doors and body to worry about if you're serious about keeping the truck. I've had two vehilces that were Ziebarted and 10-15 years later, they were still in amazing shape. A friend recently bought a 89 LCruiser from Michigan of all places - it had been ziebarted when new and still had a perfect frame and body (which is fucking remarkable for an 80's vintage Toyota)
Bill |
Mark Smith (Msmith)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 12, 2002 - 01:25 pm: |
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I'm in the auto restoration business, so this is one thing I can comment knowlegably on...lol. The best rust protection you can do, short of taking your body off the frame, is sandblast the area of rust. If you can't blast it, a wire brush and drill work pretty well. Then prime it with epoxy primer, Rustoleum, or Corroless from The Eastwood Company. After priming,sand it and coat it with spray on bedliner for trucks. You can buy a setup of spray in liner for about $100 and tint it with black enamel paint. Your local body shop can spray it on for you if you don't have access to the equipment. It uses an Undercoating spray gun from 3M. The truck bed liner material is acrylic urethane resin, so it's VERY tough and should hold up well off road. The supplies total will cost about $200-$250, but you can get to almost all the outside of your frame with it.
As for the inside the frame box, you can spray in epoxy primer or Corroless.But first you'll want to drill a few holes in the bottom of the frame at strategic drain points ( i.e., the lowest points on the frame) to allow water to more freely drain.Use the new holes and existing ones to clean inside the frame with a pressure washer. Take your favorite jack to the local U-Suds-It and wash away. Let it dry overnight, then prime. The best way to spray in the primer is to use the 3M undercoat gun with some type of hose attached to the nozzle. The hose will allow you to reach inside using the new and existing holes in the frame, then flood the area with primer/Corroless. Aside from that, there's not alot you can do for the inside without removal of the body, but it should work pretty well. |
Mark Smith (Msmith)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 12, 2002 - 01:43 pm: |
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Oh yeah, you should clean the entire frame and wipe thoroughly with wax/grease remover before spraying. There are better ways of rustproofing, as mentioned earlier. But, IMO, if you're on a tight budget, this should work fine for several years. If you're careful and mask off areas where you don't want the liner get on, it'll look great too! |
Arman
| | Posted on Friday, September 13, 2002 - 04:45 pm: |
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Mark,
Thanks for taking the time to explain things in detail, really appreciate it. Gives me something to chew over.
Cheers,
Arman. |
Mark Smith (Msmith)
| | Posted on Friday, September 13, 2002 - 06:25 pm: |
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You're quite welcome
--Mark |
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