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Greg P. (Gparrish)
Posted on Thursday, September 12, 2002 - 12:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Anyone know where I can find these? Preferably a style that is a direct fit to the normal automotive relay sockets.

Also, does anyone have the spec's on the LR Fog light relay? This should be a latching relay if I understand properly, but what Amperage is it rated to handle?

Thanks

Greg
 

Shane C. (Qsiguy)
Posted on Thursday, September 12, 2002 - 02:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You can make any relay into a latching type with the use of diodes, if you explain your usage I could figure out a wiring configuration that would work. I can get a mechanical latching relay but it is not the same "footprint" as the standard relays. It's a Potter & Brumfield with mechanical latch, 15amp contact rating, 12volt non polarized coil. I sell them for $30 ea.

Shane
www.c4caraudio.com
 

Greg P. (Gparrish)
Posted on Thursday, September 12, 2002 - 02:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Shane,

I'm trying to run aftermarket lights off of stock landrover Discovery 2 binnacle switches, which are non-latching. Not sure how landrover accomplishes this on their stock loom, but but I think they are using a latching relay under the hood. I don't want to go through the stock system, and want to use the looms provided with the lights and tie back to my non-latching switches for asthetics. I don't have to have a relay to fit the same socket, it would have just been easier.

I'm not sure what the rating on the LR relay is, it is in slot 12 in the under hood fuse panel. I'll check it out tonight as if it is rated high enough and is a latching style, it would work. I will have two 100 watt lights on each relay I think so I'm looking at somewhere between 18 to 25 amps, but would probably want 25 amp relays.
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Thursday, September 12, 2002 - 03:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You don't even have to use a diode. Use a DPDT relay and wire it so that one of the contact sets is used to power the coil so that it stays on until you hit the switch again.

Another time I wish I had the ability to draw schematics using a word processor!

Paul
 

Shane C. (Qsiguy)
Posted on Thursday, September 12, 2002 - 03:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Paul, true you don't need a diode for the DPDT relays, I use mostly the SPDT relays for my security installs. How do you make it turn off the relay by pressing the same button again? The button turns on the relay making it latch itself and the only way to shut it off is to take away power or ground on either side of the coil. The same switch that turns it on couldn't also remove power from it. If you have a way to make that work please explain, I've had many times it would have been nice to use the same momentary switch to do that.

If you have 2 momentary switches one could be used to turn it on and the other to turn them off.

Shane
 

Greg P. (Gparrish)
Posted on Friday, September 13, 2002 - 09:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Another question:

Is there another term for latching relay? for example, would one of the following indicate a latching relay?

SPDT, SPNO, SPNC or SPDM

Thanks,

Greg
 

Greg P. (Gparrish)
Posted on Friday, September 13, 2002 - 11:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

OKAY, forget my question on this. I did find a circuit for making a latching relay on your own at http://www.tfs.net/~petek/autoelec/autoelec.htm for anyone who is interested in it.

I found a better way to accomplish my goal on a D2. This way allows me to use the factory wiring harness and everything.

Basically, you will need this for each light:

1 fog switch
1 cruise control on/off switch
1 factory wiring harness

You can take the cruise control on/off switch from the right side of the binnacle, and flip it to fit the left side. Some trimming of the tabs may be necessary.

Then, you can remove the cap from the fog switch and install on the cruise switch. The light pattern is identical. This gets the correct picture on your button.

Now, you have a latching switch that looks stock and still lights up correctly, and this will mate to your aftermarket wiring harness relays.

If you don't have some spare pig tails you may need to purchase the appropriate sized terminal to fit the pins.

Thanks,
Greg

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