| Author |
Message |
    
Maneesh Kumar (Dmk)
| | Posted on Saturday, September 14, 2002 - 05:49 pm: | 
|
I checked with a local audio shop and they told me that installing a Sony head unit would require bypassing the factory installed amps. Is this true??? |
ken
| | Posted on Saturday, September 14, 2002 - 07:02 pm: |
|
Yes its true |
Shane C. (Qsiguy)
| | Posted on Saturday, September 14, 2002 - 09:12 pm: |
|
Well, there may be an adapter option but I recommend bypassing it. Thats what I did on my 95 Disco. Most decent head units have as good or better amps than the stock one built in anyway. My Pioneer "45w per channel" head unit sounds better than the stock amp did. All you have to do is wire the 4 pairs of speaker wires from the amp to the head unit, which on my 95 disco the stock amp was under the passenger front seat.
Shane
c4caraudio |
Boxerhips
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2002 - 01:18 am: |
|
The amp under the pass seat feeds the sub amp. If you remove the amp the subs will not work. For the record no radio has more than 18 watts of clean power. They all use "chip" amps. If a radio has a 15 amp fuse, 10 amps for power @ 50% efficient = 5 amps of current, 5 x 13.5(volts) = 67.5 / 4(each channel) = 16.8 watts MAX , half of 1% distortion about 9 watts per channel. Factory amp is 20 x 4 clean. |
ken
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2002 - 02:40 am: |
|
I haven't looked into it But I doubt the factory amp is 20watts at .5 THD |
Shane C. (Qsiguy)
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2002 - 04:44 am: |
|
That's why I said my Pioneer has "45 watts per channel" (note quotes). It does sound better than the stock amp tho whatever the claimed power output is of the stock amp (which I would very much doubt that the stock amp in my 95 D1 is 20x4 "clean"). It is true that the front amp feeds the subs but I have also removed the subs from the rear door because I don't like them and I have an aftermarket 12" sub with an aftermarket amp to run it.
By the way DMK, you never said what year/model Disco you have, that could make a big difference.
Shane
c4caraudio |
Maneesh Kumar (Dmk)
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2002 - 06:31 pm: |
|
Sorry Peeps. The pig is a 99 D1. Does anyone have a link to installing such a head unit? |
Danno (Danno)
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2002 - 08:19 pm: |
|
from my ETM:
LF+ = BLK/WHT, LF- = BLK/BRN
RF+ = BLK/PINK, RF- = BLK/RED
LR+ = BLK/YEL, LR- = BLK/ORG
RR+ = BLK/GRN, RR- = BLK/BLU
installers had used a level converter on my Sony to the factory amp. |
Kurt J.
| | Posted on Monday, September 16, 2002 - 05:23 pm: |
|
Shane,
boxterhips is right on the money. While you are correct that the factory unit leave much to be desired in audio "volume". Your 45 watt Pioneer unit is not truely 45 watts per channel. Reason,
trasisters "chips" emit large amounts of heat as you rase your volue levels. To dissapate this heate most aftermarked amps have heatsinks on top and sides. Your Pioneer unit does not have this capiblitiy. I hate when manufatures quote wattage on a total output level rather than a THD level.
Your unit will only produce about 6-9W per channel with .5 % THD. Anything above this will
be distorted and unclear.
My suggestion, for inexpensive sound improvement
Aquire an aftermarket amp with hi-level inputs and place it inline after the factor amp. Yes this is not the cleanest way to do this but I doubt you will here much of a diffrence and give you the wattage you are desiring.
I would also look into replacing the speakers. I wired up a hi-level sub using the rear speaker
wires from the sub and it works great. I did have to run an alternative power sorce from my battery which took about 30min. |
Jroc (Jroc)
| | Posted on Monday, September 16, 2002 - 06:15 pm: |
|
Good rule of thumb is: Anytime a piece of audio equiptment advertises the wattage on the piece in big bolt type, chances are, it's gonna sound like shit! Look for the RMS rather than Peak output and don't get hung up on Wattage. Quality sound has more to do with everything being matched to each other, than anything. Speakers designed to handle high amounts of wattage don't sound right when not given adequate amounts of power. This is just one example of many. The speakers and amp that were stock in my Disco I were, IMHO, garbage! I replaced the entire system and didn't keep any of it! The sound is much much better. All I lost was the ability to control the stereo from the dash controls above the steering wheel. Why LRNA thinks this is more convenient than the knobs on the deck is beyond me! And while I'm venting, 4" full range speakers in the doors is almost as pathetic as 4" full range speakers in the rear pillars! This "Audio System" was designed by a retard!!! Top of my list of mods to the system would be to swap out the rear "full range's" with a larger speaker, maybe 6 1/2 or 6 3/4 whatever will fit. Slight cutting of the sheet metal required. Second would be to add a self powered sub to replace the two anemic 6 3/4 subs. Check out the Philips Basslinks, Awsome! And I think they fit in the space where the jumpseats go. Maybe just these mods and a real amp for the door and rear pillar speakers. And lastly change the door speakers to match the amp picked. Price for the upgrade, under a $1000 with one basslink, a little over with two. Sound improvement? Priceless!!! LOL I'm curious how this would sound with the stock head unit, I'm guessing it would sound fine and still keep the useless controls in tact. Everything from Mozart to Ozzie should sound much fuller. Sade to Enya, Neil Young to Neil Diamond, LOL You get the idea. Quality sound knows no genre. Good Luck and get it dirty!!! |
|
Closed: New threads not accepted on this page