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Bruce
Posted on Wednesday, September 18, 2002 - 11:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

For those so inclined to replace your serpentine belt tensioner-pulley �bearing�, it is a very simple process, however the simplicity stops when you are wondering how to remove the circle-clip which holds the bearing in place. The circle clip rides inside a channel on the wall of the pulley at the very top and this has to be removed to press-out the old bearing and press-in the new bearing. When faced with removing this clip, if you are aggressive in your attempts to remove this clip, you could either bend the clip, scar the clip channel or the inside surface of the pulley. It is aggravating and your patience will be tested.
TIP1 = ensure the bearing you purchase from any parts store is �enclosed/sealed�, top and bottom. Do not get home to discover the bearing is open on one side. Been there, done that.
TIP2 = drill a very small hole on each terminating end of the circular clip, then use circlip-pliers to remove the clip and reinsert once the new bearing is pressed-in.

How small of a drill bit? You will see once you remove your pulley, it�s a very small drill bit.

Hope this helps.

Bruce
 

Bill Bettridge (Billb)
Posted on Wednesday, September 18, 2002 - 11:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Good tips - I just used a small 45 deg pick to pop out the end of the circlip and the remainder of it followed easily.

Bill
 

Bill K (Bill_K)
Posted on Wednesday, September 18, 2002 - 11:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks for the post. My tensioner has started to squeal and I will be changing my bearings also. My question is: When replacing the bearings, do I remove the bolt that mounts the tensioner to the engine and remove the entire tensioner, or do I remove the bolt that mounts the tensioner pulley to the tensioner and just remove that pulley?
 

Bill Bettridge (Billb)
Posted on Wednesday, September 18, 2002 - 12:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Bill - just remove the tensioner pulley - nothing else, leave the bracket on the engine.

Bill
 

Rick Lindgren (Slacker)
Posted on Wednesday, September 18, 2002 - 01:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

There have been references in the past to both the tensioner pulley and the idler pulley needing new bearings. Are people mistakenly using both names to refer to the same pulley or is there a problem with the bearings on both types of pulleys. I have noise starting in the belt area and I'm wondering which pulleys I should be checking because of notorious bearing problems.

Thanks,
Rick
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Wednesday, September 18, 2002 - 01:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Much ado about nothing.
I've done this twice in the past week and although it is something of a challenge, the job only takes fifteen minutes and that includes removing the serpentine belt and the pulley and reinstalling.

BTW- the jobber price on that bearing through NAPA is only $5.98!

Paul
 

Bill K (Bill_K)
Posted on Wednesday, September 18, 2002 - 01:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks for the help. I guess I'll be changing it this weekend. I know it's been posted before, my searches arent good, so could someone be kind enough to re-post the bearing number?
 

Jorge
Posted on Wednesday, September 18, 2002 - 03:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Bill,

I believe is Napa 6203-2RSJ. I am actually trying to find it my self because I am experinecing a horrible whistling coming out of it..at least I think that is causing the whistle! last weekend I removed the belt tensioner pulley and applied some WD-40 and that did not take care of the problem, but the sound is coming from there! good luck!!

Jorge
 

Bruce
Posted on Wednesday, September 18, 2002 - 03:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Again, NAPA has just a #$@%load of bearings that fit that description so make sure the bearing you pick is sealed and not open-ended.
Paul has it right, more than 15 minutes equates to someone without the right tools and then, maybe 20 minutes tops.
 

Bill K (Bill_K)
Posted on Thursday, September 19, 2002 - 07:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

When removing the tensioner pulley, how do you hold the pulley while twisting off it's central bolt? Would an oil filter strap wrench work?
 

Bill Bettridge (Billb)
Posted on Thursday, September 19, 2002 - 08:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Bill,
the bolt is a shoulder bolt, so just unscrew it - no need to hold anything as it is not screwed into the pulley.

Bill
 

Bill K (Bill_K)
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 06:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks for the help guys. I just got back from NAPA and the part # 6203-2rsj is sealed on both sides. Thats what the 2 means (according to the guy behind the counter). It was $10 so this will be the CHEAPEST LR parts replacement job so far.
 

Dee Cantrell (Discodad)
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 06:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks Bill K, good thing i loooked at this post i was on my way to NAPA to get the very same part...
 

Dee Cantrell (Discodad)
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 12:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Went to NAPA part number works rebuild worked thanks all
 

Bill K (Bill_K)
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2002 - 10:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Just finished mine. Hardest part was removing the circlip. I had to use 2 flatblade screwdrivers. The grease in the old bearing was cruddy black.
A couple tips:
I replaced the belt with an OEM landrover (also marked DAYCO). The existing belt was a non oem DAYCO installed about 6 months ago, bought from DAP. It was SHORTER than the OEM and was already cracking. Some say a slightly shorter belt wears out the bearings in pulleys faster, others say it doesnt matter. Check your belt.

When replacing the water pump (6 months ago) I put anti seize on the fan threads and it paid off. The fan came off with a simple, quick twist.
 

Dee Cantrell (Discodad)
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2002 - 12:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Did mine the other night i drilled two small holes for the clip. I did get a bit anal being im rebuiliding the top end and cleaning it all up i painted the wheel red barron red... Thank all for the info
 

Rick Lindgren (Slacker)
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2002 - 03:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Does all of this apply to a DII? I just got my tensioner pulley off and it looks like the damn thing is one solid piece of plastic with the bearing embedded in it.

Has anyone actually changed the bearing on a DII? I have a '99 and I'm wondering if they were trying something out for the first MY DII and later reverted. I'm curious if I can pick up a pulley from an older/newer truck, replace the bearing, and install that pulley instead but I don't know if there were size differences between the DI and DII.

Thanks,
Rick

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