| Author |
Message |
    
david kempken
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 18, 2002 - 01:14 pm: | 
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Just bought a 1995 discovery and the brake backing plate is wet from a leaky swivel ball.
How to fix? Where to get parts?
Thanks Dave |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 18, 2002 - 01:25 pm: |
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Dave:
It's an easy fix. Time consuming, but easy.
Quick and dirty method: Disconnect the swivel ball from the axle tube and withdraw the entire assembly intact, remove the botls on the back of the swivel housing, pop the new seal in and bolt it all back together. For a newbie, figure on 3-4 hours.
Long and drawn out method: Start at the wheel and disconnect/unbolt everything until you get to the axle housing. Back up until you get to the swivel housing, remove bolts, pop seal in, reassemble.
As for parts, the least expensive will come out of the UK. I use Mansfield Motors. Domestically, Discount Rovers is probably the best and least expensive.
If you go to the trouble to tear your swivels apart, buy the bearings and do the job once, right. You might also think about setting the swivel preload.
The wheel bearings are timken number 37. I can look for the Timken equivalent for the swivel bearings too, if you need it.
Again, it is not a particularly difficult job, merely time consuming. It's just nuts and bolts and most of them loosen counter-clockwise.
Paul |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 18, 2002 - 01:33 pm: |
|
would this problem cause you bearings to go bad
quickly and cause the grinding noise associated with a bearing going out?
i may have this problem with mine because my brake backing plate has oil or grease on it and it leaked on the inside of my wheel
on the front left side |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 18, 2002 - 02:16 pm: |
|
Blake:
Under most conditions, the swivel seal will have absolutely no bearing (Tee hee) on the condition of the wheel bearings as they are intended to run in separate oil baths. There is a seal in the stub axle which is intended to keep the two different lubricants separated. However, I have seen a few situations where that seal obviously failed and the two mixed. Now, that may sound bad, but there are some who remove this seal altogether with and run the two lubes together.
In my experience, the grinding noises are not bearings, but CV joints. I have however heard many instances of the bearings going bad in such an extreme fashion that they did make grinding noises. I know of one individual who in 90,000 miles had to replace his wheel bearings three times. Me, I'm at 153,000 miles and still on my original wheel bearings, although I did have a real axle seal fail, necessitating an eventual disassembly. If I'm gonna tear it apart to put a new seal in it, it only makes sense to me to replace the bearings at the same time.
Paul |
david kempken
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 18, 2002 - 03:58 pm: |
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Paul<
Thanks for the info, when I get my hands greasy, and have more questions you may hear from me.
The rig has pretty low miles(40k) so I probobly won't do the bearings and all, but will try the quick and dirty method first.
Dave |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 18, 2002 - 11:59 pm: |
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i'm gonna take it to the stealership in birmingham and let them fix it for good i guess
 stealership |
Mark Smith (Msmith)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 19, 2002 - 04:32 am: |
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Blake,
There's a guy on the southside of bham, close to the dealership that works on rovers...look him up and take it to him. lots cheaper than the dealer. he's in the yellow pages.
--Mark |
Blake Luse (Muddyrover)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 19, 2002 - 12:01 pm: |
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ANy idea on his name mark.
or maybe the city he's in
taking it to him would help out alot on costs
i'd probably bust a move like this if i found him!
 |
Joe Still
| | Posted on Friday, September 20, 2002 - 07:59 am: |
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Is this Bham AL we're talking about? I'm in Huntsville (LR wasteland) and may need such help someday?
Joe Still |
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