| Author |
Message |
    
scubaman99
| | Posted on Thursday, September 19, 2002 - 06:45 pm: | 
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i have to replace my front rotor, which according to the manual means pulling the front hub.
that seems simple enough, BUT upon replacing everything, my manual talks about using a dial gauge with special LR part for the mounting base to measure free play of 0.08-0.25mm.... torquing the hub ajusting nut to 61nm, then backing off 90deg, then retighting to 4nm, to get a 0.010mm clearance
yikes... does everyone really get this specific... am i crazy if i dont hook up a dial gauge?!?!?!
what does/did you do? |
Dee Cantrell (Discodad)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 19, 2002 - 06:59 pm: |
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I torque the inner nut to 90 ft pounds, break it loose 1/4 turn then tighten until a slight resistance is felt. Add bend tab washer the outer nut i torque that to 60 and bend the tabs... This is the same procedure outlined by AllData. it will set the correct preload... The Dial indicator is a pain unless you have a flex mag base one... Good Luck |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Friday, September 20, 2002 - 08:17 am: |
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As long as you replace the end-play shims that are behind the circlip with the same ones that you took out - you'll be OK - don't worry about it otherwise.
BTW - don't worry when you can't get the old rotor off the hub - clamp the hub in a vise and use a 2# maul to tap off (LOL) the old rotor. As far as putting the new rotor on - clean the flange up and put a light coat of grease on it, then set the rotor down on the hub so the bolt holes line up and thread each bolt all a few turns - this will keep the bolt hole alignment while you tap the new rotor on (piece of 2x4 and aformentioned 2# maul).
Oh yeah - if you have a press, you don't need to do any of that......
Bill |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Friday, September 20, 2002 - 09:13 am: |
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I haven't had any problems with having the rotors come right off the hub-was pretty amazed when it happened! Both times!
I don't use the vise method... Just flip the tire over and put the hub back into the wheel and hold the rim down with your knees as you remove and reinstall the rotor on the hub.
I have used the dial indicator method and on all of the bearing jobs I've done (up to about 10-15 by now), every time, I run out of thread before I really get the nut tight. Checking them after 500 miles shows the bearings to be running well.
Don't sweat it. Another easy job and this one isn't even too time intensive.
Paul |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Friday, September 20, 2002 - 09:31 am: |
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Damn Paul - I wish mine were that way - all 4 took some serious persuasion...... |
scubaman99
| | Posted on Friday, September 20, 2002 - 08:10 pm: |
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Thx paul,
i will have to remember the "mount to wheel in order to remove rotor trick" |
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