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Rob Vreeland (Cruzths)
Posted on Monday, September 23, 2002 - 02:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Anyone know of Sway Bar quick disconnect kits that will work on a Disco II? The Rovertym disconnects are only for Series I.

Thanks,
Rob
 

Alen
Posted on Monday, September 23, 2002 - 11:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

JKS for 97 and up wranglers work good for the front
 

RJ Clayton (Tozovr)
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 09:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Heh heh, when I slid under My cousin's '00 I commented that those look just like the TJ links LOL! I guess I'm getting good at this...
 

George Clayton (Offcamber)
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 10:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

......My brother is running the JKS in his '00 TJ, and LOVES them. Nice to know they'll work on the Discos, too. I was just getting ready to post the same Question.

What is everyone doing with their rear swaybar. In the Cherokees, we could pull them out and throw them in the woods with no adverse handling effects to the rig once it was lifted.

Opinions?

Anyone know where you can get the JKS for a reasonable price?
 

Greg P. (Gparrish)
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 10:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Why wouldn't the same one's work? Looks like on my 2001 D2 that the linkages are the same front and rear.

Greg
 

Jroc (Jroc)
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 12:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I have a '95 Disco and I use my rear sway bar to collect dust samples in my garage! I took the rear off about two months ago and I hardly noticed a difference at first and now I definately don't notice. The fronts I've left on because I have bilsteins and I don't think the sway bar is the limiting factor for me there. Eventually I'm going to a longer shock and then I'll want to disconnect the front sway bar. I was also curious about what people do with the front sway bar once disconnected. Does it come off entirely? What's the deal? I should also mention that I have OME heavy springs all around and that's probably why I hardly noticed a difference without the rear sway bar.............Get it dirty.
 

Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 12:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

While the ends of the sway bar can take a quick-disconnect, the bar passes through capture points that are bolted down. You "could" unbolt them and remove the entire bar if you really wanted to, but then you'll be carrying around a sway bar with you. Most people leave them bolted in place, and just pull the disconnects loose... this removes the effect of the sway bar while leaving it bolted in place.

-L
 

Sean Hanagan (Seanh)
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 01:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Where could one find the JKS?
 

George Clayton (Offcamber)
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 05:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

With respect to the front swaybars, the bar stays connected to the vehicle, just the points at which they connect to the suspension are disconnected (with a product like JKS, you simply pull a pin, and separate....pretty slick setup). Once I'm disconnected, I usually use a couple of zip-ties to truss everything up and out of the way.....hate the thought of bending something while out there on the trail.

Anyone with a D2 either throw their rear sway bar out, or set up disconnects for it?
 

Rob Vreeland (Cruzths)
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 06:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Do you know which model number of JKS works? I went to their web site and there is nothing listed for 97' and up wranglers.

Thanks,
Rob
 

Rick Lindgren (Slacker)
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 06:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Rob, you have to speak "Jeep". They don't call them wranglers. It's for a '97 and up TJ. I think the XJ and ZJ apply to the cherokee and grand cherokee.

But don't quote me on that, I don't own a Jeep.

Rick
 

Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 07:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

CJ = CiviJeep, ie, older Jeeps, CJ2, CJ2A, CJ3A, CJ3b, CJ5, CJ6, CJ7
CJ8 = Scrambler
SJ (or, FSJ) = Full Size Jeeps, ie, Wagoneers and Grand Wagoneers, old Cherokees, and J-truck pickups
XJ = Cherokee
MJ = Commanche (little pickup)
YJ = Wrangler
TJ = "new" Wrangler
ZJ = Grand Cherokee
WJ = "new" Grand Cherokee
KJ = Liberty
VJ = old Jeepsters
DJ = Dispatch Jeeps (mail Jeeps)
C101 = Jeepster/Commandos
FC = Forward Controls

-L
 

Rob Davison (Pokerob)
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 08:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

i thought vj's were just on mtv
 

Dave_Lucas (Dave_Lucas)
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 08:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

My 4wheel drive hardware catalog says that the following JKS disconnects are for the 1997 � 01 TJ Wrangler

#557972 TJ with 0 2� lift
#557974 TJ with 2 ½ - 6� Lift
 

Dave_Lucas (Dave_Lucas)
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 08:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Or online

www.4wd.com/shopcatalog/fall02/jkstj.asp
 

Dave_Lucas (Dave_Lucas)
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 08:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Looks like JKS also sells them on their site

www.jksmfg.com/quicker_disconnectsTJ_XJ_ZJ.htm

Does anyone have them installed on a DII? If so did you use the standard length or the 2 1/2 - 6" ones?

Would it make sense to use the ones for a lifted TJ? Or would this cause problems?
 

Rob Vreeland (Cruzths)
Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 09:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Dave - I ordered a set so I will keep everyone posted. I got the 0-2.5" version, I hope it was the right now.
 

George Clayton (Offcamber)
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 09:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Just posted a group buy thread on JKS Disconnects in the For Sale Forum.....for anyone interested...
 

Dave_Lucas (Dave_Lucas)
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 09:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I am going to go down to the local 4x4 store on thursday and see if they have some I can check out.

Rob,
Looking forward to your post on how they work for you.
 

muskyman
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 09:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I know the thread says kits

you can build your own disco disconnects for damn near nothing with pins you can purchase a a good hardware store.

just made a set for a friends new cherokee and it cost him about $18 bucks in parts and me 15min of work with a chop saw and grinder.
 

zenwithin
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 10:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

How about giving some details on the homemade disconnects Muskyman? Fabrication is fun!
 

RJ Clayton (Tozovr)
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 10:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

There's a link in tech for disconnects that works with DS1's...that's the style we usually fabbed for jeeps. Now I just use the JKS GENII, the ease of connect/disconnect is uncanny with them. Anything less than the JKS GEN II's and you may as well just unbolt the stock links when you wheel (it's pretty easy to do, much easier than the JKS Gen I disconnects were...especially when it came time to reconnect).

my $.02
 

muskyman
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 10:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Zen,

remove one of the bolts that connects the swaybar to the axle housing.

go to a hardware store and ask where the hitch pins are...these come in all shapes and sizes for anything from a lawn tractor to snowplow and equipment hitches.

find one that is the same diameter as the sway bar bolt. the ones with a large hoop work well and are easy to get in and out.

put the pin into through the bushing and through the sway bar. install a washer over pin and mark the shaft of the pin just past the washer.

then cross drill the pin on the mark and cut the pin down to 1/2" longer then where its cross drilled. grind a small taper on the end of the pin to let it slide in and out easy.

on some vehicles you can then weld a couple tabs onto trhe frame so you can swing the swaybar up and use the same pin to affix it to the frame when offroad.
 

RJ Clayton (Tozovr)
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 11:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Aedofab Anti-Sway Bar Quick Disconnect Kit Install For a Discovery Series 1
 

George Clayton (Offcamber)
Posted on Wednesday, September 25, 2002 - 08:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The JKS Gen I Disconnects were definitely as tough to Connect/Disconnect as anything you could make yourself. The home-made systems work really slick after you put some effort into them, get everything all measured up rite, etc. However, the JKS Gen II's are a piece of art. As quick as I could disconnect my home-made setup on my Cherokee, my bro and his TJ with the Gen II's were ten times easier, and when it came time to reconnect, no issues......except for one time when he lost the pin to one side...that was fun. That's the reason I'm thinking about getting the Gen II's for my Disco.

FWIW
 

Dave_Lucas (Dave_Lucas)
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2002 - 09:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Well,

Just installed my JKS disconnects on the front today and tested them, I will post some feedback and pictures later.
 

Rob Vreeland (Cruzths)
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 01:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Damn Dave.. How did you get them so quick? Mine should be here on Monday.

So did it require any modification? If so, please do tell.

Now how about the rear?
 

Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 01:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

How long are the 0-2.5" lift version relative to the stock downlinks?
 

Ho Chung (Ho)
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 01:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

al, go to bed. LOL
 

Dave_Lucas (Dave_Lucas)
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 10:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

AL,

I am not sure about the 0-2.5" version, but here is a picture of the 2 1/2 - 6" as you can see they are about the exact height as the original.

JKS 2 1/2 - 6"
 

Dave_Lucas (Dave_Lucas)
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 11:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

DOH, GRRR, ARGH,

JKS
 

Rob Vreeland (Cruzths)
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 11:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Crap.. I got the small ones (0-2.5").. I wonder if they will fit.
 

Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 11:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Cool... Thanks Dave. looks like a good direct replacement for those of us with ACE that want to go taller than a 2" lift. I was thinking of making something up but this may just save me some time. :)
 

Dave_Lucas (Dave_Lucas)
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 12:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hello Rob,

I went to my local 4x4 shop on Thursday and got them, they had them in stock for 119.00

For the install you will have to make one minor mod and possibly a larger mod to get them to work properly. here are some tips for how I installed them, keep in mind that I used the 2 ½ - 6�. And they do remove/replace without difficulty.

Mod 1 Clean/enlarge lower bolt hole.
The bolt for the lower pin mount on the JKS is the exact size of the hole that you need to insert it into, I am sure you could force the bolt into the hole, but I choose to use a small round file to clean up the hole and enlarge it a small amount on the first side, it took about 12 Min of filing to get the bolt to fit nice. On the second one I choose to find a drill bit that was the same size as the JKS bolt that needed to be inserted and drilled the hole, it just barley removed any metal at all, more of a cleaning of the hole and making sure it is round.
Mod 2 Grind sway bar sides to match JKS top strap width
I have not done this yet, however I plan on doing this later, JKS is very clear and states it several times that you should mount the strap on the top of the sway bar. The reason is that if the strap is on the bottom of the sway bar the bolt holding the strap bears all of the stress when the vehicle is lifted with the connectors connected. You will notice that it is not possible to mount the straps on the top as they are just a little to small, I am going to pull out my sway bar and grind a little off the side of the sway bar to get it to fit proper. I have them installed on the bottom for now since I did not have time to do the proper grinding yesterday. You can see what I am talking about the next picture.

Let me know how yours work out and if you run into the same problem.

ummm
 

Dave_Lucas (Dave_Lucas)
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 12:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

AL,

"I was thinking of making something up but this may just save me some time."

Depending on how much time it takes to grind a little off the sway bar to have them installed proper you may not save much time. However I can say that this is THE best quick disconnect I have ever seen. They are sooooooo easy to disconnect compared to my original JKS disconnects on my old Jeep.
 

Dave_Lucas (Dave_Lucas)
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 12:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Rob,

"Crap.. I got the small ones (0-2.5").. I wonder if they will fit."

If they are shorter they may be good for the rear, the rear links on my DII are several inches shorter than my fronts.

Let me know what they are like when you get them.
 

Rick Lindgren (Slacker)
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 07:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Dave, how much grinding is required? I went to the local shop and just from looking at the JKS I thought they would be too small but I didn't have a tape measure. Other than that, they look really nice.

Rick
 

Dave_Lucas (Dave_Lucas)
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 08:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Rick,


I am not sure how much grinding would be needed yet, however I am guessing about 1/4 total.

Others have posted that they have them installed and they did not mention grinding off anything. Maybe I am to picky, maybe they will work fine on the bottom of the sway bar (they have for two days now)? Who knows? I am not sure so I would rather grind a little off the sway bar and install per JKS recomendations.

" I went to the local shop and just from looking at the JKS I thought they would be too small but I didn't have a tape measure"

I do not think the ones I have would be too short, in the pic above they are adjusted to be as short as possible, but they can adjust up about another 4". I am going to do some checking, maybe the short ones that you have seen will work in the back, the rear connectors are alot shorter.
 

Dave_Lucas (Dave_Lucas)
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 08:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Rob,

If you get yours and they are too short for the front, check them for the back and let us know if they are about the same. I looked at the back and I do not think you would need to grind on the rear sway bar at all since it is not as wide.
 

Rob Vreeland (Cruzths)
Posted on Monday, September 30, 2002 - 10:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Dave - should get them today as long as UPS delivers without signature (I'll be a work). I'll let you know if they would work for the rear. They may work for the front if I extend them all the way. I will probably mount them on the bottom of the sway arm as you have it right now because to remove my sway bar for grinding would require the removal of my SG front skid which would not be a simple or quick job. Maybe I will just reinforce the JKS bracket with some steel bars and welding. I'll keep you posted.

Dave - what are you using to secure the sway arm after you disconnect? Oh and what about brake cables, will they be long enough if they are stock or are you running extended steel cables?

Rob
 

Dave_Lucas (Dave_Lucas)
Posted on Monday, September 30, 2002 - 12:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Rob,

I have a 3" rovertym lift so I am running extended ABS and brake lines.

For the brake lines I moved the front lines to the back and installed the extended stainless lines that John provides with the kit. (The fronts lines are the same length as the extended rears John sells)

I am not sure if you will need to extend them or not. You may want to ask here and on the yahoo DII group someone may have a similar setup as you.

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