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Al Killebrew (Kbrew)
| Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 08:03 pm: |
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Any info on or links to this project? It has been one of the most useful mods to my TJ and I'd like to add one to my wife's D1. For jeepers, this site is the bible: http://www.onboardair.com/ Just wandering if there might be an equivalent for the Discovery. Thanks -Al |
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Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
| Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 10:15 pm: |
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There's Power Tank, available at Expedition Exchange, but I have wondered about something like this. I saw a Junkyard Wars epsisode where one team simply cut the input hose, and repurposed the output hose of a car's air conditioning compressor! |
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curquieta
| Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 11:40 pm: |
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I use two 10lb. powerttanks in my DII. they work great. I have used them to run air tools effectively. they are mounted in the cargo area on the left side to the cubby hole. |
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Dave_Lucas (Dave_Lucas)
| Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 11:44 pm: |
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On a DII could you use the SLS pump? Or make mounts for an AC pump to fit in the SLS area? |
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Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 11:49 pm: |
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I don't think the DII has a tank for the air like the Rangie has but I've often thought about trying it when I convert the SLS to coils. |
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Ali
| Posted on Friday, September 27, 2002 - 07:21 am: |
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If you guys can find the room in the engine compartment then go for it. On an older RRC, there's plenty of room for a Sanden or a York but dunno about the Discos. One thought I had was to put a Sanden on the left side of the alternator. For some pics of my install, check out: http://community.webshots.com/album/33270040fxdHOZ Let me know if you got any ?s. |
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RVR OVR (Tom)
| Posted on Friday, September 27, 2002 - 08:06 am: |
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Do you keep your A/C, Ali? If you guys go the tank route, here's a good place to put it.. http://www.discoweb.org/trailair/index.htm |
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Al Killebrew (Kbrew)
| Posted on Friday, September 27, 2002 - 08:31 am: |
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Thanks for the responses. I've used CO2 systems in the past and they work well but I'd rather have a compressor driven setup if I can fab one. Ali - Looking good! Are you using an oiler with the Sanden? Also, I'm new here and haven't been around long enough to know what you drive or to recognize models from engine compartment pics. What model is this? Thanks - Al |
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Pugsly
| Posted on Friday, September 27, 2002 - 09:34 am: |
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I agree with Tom, The Trail Air is a much less expensive system than the Power Tank. If you are going CO2 I would recommend them over Power Tank. |
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Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| Posted on Friday, September 27, 2002 - 09:56 am: |
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LOL, and jeep is much less expensive than the land rover.... if you are going for offroad i recommend them over land rover rd |
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curquieta
| Posted on Friday, September 27, 2002 - 06:43 pm: |
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You can fit an A/C pump on the right, rear side of the engine compartment against the bulkhead. To do this requires some minor fabrication. Remove the black plate on the bulhead that covers the ecu and weld a small shelf on it to mount the compressor. I chose powertanks instead of the compressor because I am using the space by the bulkhead for a dual battery. If someone can tell me how to upload pictures here, I'll include some for the compressor installation. |
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Ali
| Posted on Friday, September 27, 2002 - 07:35 pm: |
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Tom, The stock A/C unit is below and to the left of the new unit air compressor. The top bracket is connecting the new and the old air comp. Al, This is '91 RRC with a 3.9 non-surpentine belt. I'm using the oil that came with the Sanden. It's simply mineral oil from what I was told. The filtration system that I outlined in the pics is a closed loop system. This system separates the oil from the air before leaving the system. The separated oil is then returned back into the compressor through the suction side and keeps looping this way. The air exiting the system is still a little oily but not enough to have to top off the system regularly. What really kills this system is heat. Unfortunately due to the lack of refrigerant and an evaporator, the a/comp will get hot and that's why I'm using the oem hoses before switching over to my own hi temp hose. I wish the OEM hoses were even longer! I finally blew a low temp hose from extreme heat in Moab when I was filling up 4 LRs with large tires, approx 20 minutes of cont usage. For short usage, the a/comp stays cooler. On board air reservoir is a must when you add an on board air comp that will do more than just operate air lockers. Hope this helps. |
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Al Killebrew (Kbrew)
| Posted on Friday, September 27, 2002 - 10:12 pm: |
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Ali, Thanks for the reply. I know what you mean about the heat as I melted the bowl on the coalescing filter I used with the york setup on my TJ. Now I just run without it. As you've noted, the output is a little oily but I probably get 3-4 hrs of use without having to refill the oil in the crankcase. I'm using about 18" of hydraulic hose from the compressor to the check valve / pressure switch assembly and then a good quality air hose from there to the tank, pressure gauge and quick connect couplers. I frequently run 20-30 minutes of continuous use without any problem. I think I paid less than $5 for the hydraulic hose at a local farm supply. Thanks again for the photos; they've certainly given me some ideas. Al |
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Ali
| Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2002 - 05:39 pm: |
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Al, You're welcome. I have a York that I'll be installing soon on the 4.6. Somewhere I found a tip that states to drill and tap a 1/8" npt inside the york and plug it up. This will eiliminate the oily air syndrome on the yorks. I think it was in the POR board. As I show on the pics, there's a definite need for a pressure relief valve in case the air comp runs away! Also the glass filter bowl was the hot ticket from GRainger as it handles the heat better. Using the longest outlet air hose possible before exiting the vehicle will cool things down a bit too. Heck for that matter you can almost use a cooling radiator if it's up to the 125psi task! Later. |