| Author |
Message |
    
Stuart (Paavscan)
| | Posted on Monday, September 30, 2002 - 03:12 pm: | 
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Manual states to push sensors in. How far and at what force can you push? Photo of L/H front sensor. Sensor looks to be bottomed out already. 83k New front rotors and pads installed, 10k before I took delivery. Is there a way to jump the the data plug to read/get the code? |
Bill K (Bill_K)
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 01, 2002 - 07:38 am: |
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what year and make do you have? its possible with some years. |
Stuart (Paavscan)
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 01, 2002 - 01:49 pm: |
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1997 4 door SE with seven seats, auto. |
Stuart (Paavscan)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 02, 2002 - 02:00 pm: |
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After a week and 600k the light has gone out. |
Bill K (Bill_K)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 02, 2002 - 05:19 pm: |
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Stuart, I think the 1996 and up models need a special reader to tell the code. You can try checking the resistance of your ABS sensors . Test them all while still in the truck( disconnect the wire harness) and see which one has a different reading |
Stuart (Paavscan)
| | Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2002 - 01:55 am: |
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Lite back on again, Have checked front L&R, both messure the same resistance of 90 om the 10x scale.
I stoped in at the dealer for a price on the sensors $500 for each front, And $800 for a rear set in Canadian $.
I will do the rear this week end. I have next week off.
Another string talks about pulling them out and cleaning them. will try that on the one that is different. |
Bill K (Bill_K)
| | Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2002 - 08:15 am: |
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Stuart, your cheapest bet is to pay a shop to read your codes and tell you which sensor is bad. Then buy the sensor and install it yourself. I once had a bad FL sensor. At the time, I didnt know about these boards and took it into the dealer. They shafted me for $715! The next time it happened, I read the codes (thanks to this BBS and the truck being a '95) and replaced my FR sensor for $200. |
Stuart (Paavscan)
| | Posted on Saturday, October 12, 2002 - 03:36 pm: |
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I have tested the rear sensor's and is the same resistance of 90 ohm on the 10k scale. I also have the electrical manual now, it just states to test with the Testbook a dealer laptop diagnoistic tool. I've also tried to tap in the sensors with a plastic drift and a rubber malet. Thanks for the help Bill! |
trevorgriffiths
| | Posted on Sunday, October 13, 2002 - 10:09 pm: |
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Faulty bulb warning relays and failed cv joint stub axle bearings can also cause the anti-lock light to stay-on/come-on!
Does the light never go out or is there a sensation of the abs is functioning on dry, straight roads under gentle braking? |
Arthur
| | Posted on Monday, October 14, 2002 - 04:57 pm: |
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I have a 96 DI that has the ABS light as well as the engine light on. I have had the code read out indicating that the "Gap" is too big on Right front sensor. It did not indicate that any sensor was bad. I've tried pushing this in, but can't get it down past a certain point, which is a bit higher then the other side.
I had ordered a new bushing from discount rovers, but it never arrived.
If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate hearing them.
BTW.. is the 90 Ohm number the correct resistance for a working sensor?
--Arthur |
Stuart (Paavscan)
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 15, 2002 - 02:28 pm: |
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The ABS action works when tring to panic stop when R/H side is on shoulder [gravel] and L/H on pavement. Was unable to trigger ABS on dry pavement. Vehicle stops straight |
Stuart (Paavscan)
| | Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 10:40 pm: |
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No fault codes on ABS system during system diagnosis at dealer.
Dealer found contact stuck on relay for warning light relay. p/n YWB10032L cost $24.00 cdn. This relay is located below and fwd of glove box. Green 1" square with 5 contacts made by Siemens.
I hope this info will help.
Stuart |
Bill K (Bill_K)
| | Posted on Saturday, October 19, 2002 - 11:30 am: |
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Lucky you, Stuart. |
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