| Author |
Message |
    
Mike Rupp (Mike_Rupp)
| | Posted on Friday, October 04, 2002 - 12:49 pm: | 
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I noticed an occasional vibration while driving around 25-50 mph. I started checking the ujoints; they seemed fine, so I started checking the steering components. I noticed some play in one of the tie rod ends. I got the Rear tie rod off, but I'm having some problems getting the tie rod end off of the tie rod. I've obviously removed the bolt from the clamp at the end of the tie rod. Is there any trick to removing the tie rod end?
Mike Rupp |
Brian Friend (Brianfriend)
| | Posted on Friday, October 04, 2002 - 12:59 pm: |
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Mike,
I seem to have to remove mine after every trip. Whack the mount really hard on the side of the (not the bolt) the vibration will break it loose. Might also have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth as you push up (or down depending on what side is giving you trouble)on the thing. good luck |
RonLF
| | Posted on Friday, October 04, 2002 - 02:29 pm: |
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Loose the nut, place a large hummer on one side of the casting, not the tie rod, and then hit the other side with a second hummer(on the casting, not tie rod). You might have to do it a couple of times, but it has always worked for me. |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 08, 2002 - 10:16 am: |
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Mike:
I suspect that the responses you got were not what you needed, as you stated you had been able to remove the assembly from the truck. Hopefully, you have been able to accomplish what you set out to do, but if not, here goes.
I also had this problem and my experience ended badly and expensively-and, I had the tooling to cut new threads for the tie rod ends! I actually broke a tie rod end off in my cross tube!
As I have not had the greatest success in removing the damned things, I can only relate has and has not worked for me. Soaking in penetrant is critical. Use of substantial amounts of heat might be necessary. Whatever you do, do not merely add longer bars to your pipe wrench as that was what ultimately led to my problem!
In breaking the tie rod end stud, I broke a vise, tore another vise out of its mounting, and finally broke the tie rod stud and made it much worse with my misguided attempts at removal (I was tired and very frustrated, a cooler head prevailed a week later and I was able to remove the broken piece).
The easiest way to solve this problem-buy a new cross tube! The aftermarket pieces are far cheaper and stronger than OEM.
Paul |
Mike Rupp (Mike_Rupp)
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 08, 2002 - 11:02 am: |
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Paul, Here's the things I tried: soaking in PB blaster, banging the cross tube with a hammer to attempt to break the threads free, heat it up with a torch. Repeated until the cross tube was quite chewed up by the pipe wrench.
Figuring I might end up breaking the damn thing, I gave up. I was planning on buying the setup from Rovertym for a while now, but this event accelerated the process. |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 08, 2002 - 11:29 am: |
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Mike:
I feel your pain! If you still want to give it a go, you might try using a cut-off wheel to lengthen the slit in the side-my final suggestion:-). Were you using an acetylene torch, or propane? Sometimes, the propane just won't get it hot enough. FWIW, once I had busted the end off, and buggered it up really good, two days later, the stub threaded out as nicely as you could wish.
I was in a pretty major bind and needed a cross tube yesterday, hence, I went with Rockware and have been very pleased with the results, the damned thing is bulletproof and I have certainly shot enough at it!
You will be pleased with the RTE rods, his stuff is great.
Peace,
Paul |
Mike Rupp (Mike_Rupp)
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 08, 2002 - 11:42 am: |
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Just propane. You're probably right; it most likely didn't get hot enough to do anything. The fumes from burning the PB Blaster were nice though! |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 08, 2002 - 12:42 pm: |
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Mike:
Doesn't the can say to use with adequate ventilation? I had to say that, my day job is Environmental, Health & Safety Manager in an auto parts factory! Some day, I'll work on Rovers full time!
Yeah, you probably didn't get it hot enough using just propane, but then again, you didn't get it too hot, either. If you haven't gotten the new rods, try repeated soakings of WD-40. I was really embarrassed at how easily the stud came out once I had broken it and drilled ahole through the center. Even more embarrassed at what I did to get myself into this situation. I have found that sometimes, mixing penetrating oils with gasoline causes them to flow better. Unfortunately, one of the best surface tension defeating compounds has fallen out of favor due to Environmental and Health concerns.
Be careful heating penetrants. I set my Blazer (pun not intended) afire using WD-40. Long story.
Paul |
Mike Rupp (Mike_Rupp)
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 08, 2002 - 04:56 pm: |
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Definitely used in an area w/ ventilation: my garage w/ door open. Still you can imagine the copious amount of smoke. Once I get the new rods, I'll probably take another whack (pun intended) at getting the tie rod end off just to have a spare.
When assembling these units at the factory, do they use any anti-seize? Or when the dealers have a problem do they just sell an entirely new setup? |
Jeff Conrad (Jwconrad)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 09, 2002 - 01:06 am: |
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Mike, try a pipe wrench and a B.F.H.
Jeff |
Mike Rupp (Mike_Rupp)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 09, 2002 - 08:55 am: |
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Did that. Like I said earlier, I'll try again when I get the new Rovertym rods on. I wont be as concerned about busting the rod at that point. |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 09, 2002 - 09:40 am: |
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Pipe wrench with a BFH is how I broke one of my tie rod ends, requiring replacement of the tie rod (cross tube in LR nomenclature).
Paul |
JB
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 09, 2002 - 09:58 am: |
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Paul is always dead-on with his advice( like that pun Paul ? ;)... RTE is awesome stuff, DAP also sells a tie rod set with greaseable ends as well for lots less $$, it is claimed to be heavy duty but you might can sleeve it for cheap to make it even stronger and it should be lots easier to take apart than what you have now. I think it is $160 or so total.. |
JB
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 09, 2002 - 10:09 am: |
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To maintain the d-web protocol Kyle has set of not giving props to things you ain't got. I must say I do not actually own anything RTE makes, I say Awesome in the sense that people I know and trust and have $$ and use their stuff and say it is awesome - so by the transitive property of equality I too think it is awesome and when my big plastic #8 Budweiser bottle is full I am gonna buy some big momma springs from them. |
pk
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 09, 2002 - 11:52 pm: |
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Heat is the key. Heat the tube around the threads. Make it real hot, not propane warm.
Are you trying to straighten a bent link? Don't bother, once bent it will be soft and bend again very easily. Either replace it with aftermarket or sleeve it with 1" black gas pipe.
Being a cheap bastard, I sleeved mine with gas pipe. 10 bucks worth of pipe, some cutting, grinding and welding and both the drag link and tie rod are fixed. They are not as good as JJ�s cool stainless steel links, but they are much better than the stock spaghetti links.
pk |
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