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William Turner (Wturner)
Posted on Tuesday, March 05, 2002 - 11:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I lock my Disco with the POS key pad, and it waits for about 15 minutes (now, last time I asked it seemed to only wait about 30 seconds), and the alarm goes off.

Their can't be a shorted wire, ot it wouldn't take so long to activate (??). It's just a random action. I was forced to pull the fuse, to avoid pissing off everybody in the complex.

What could be wrong???
 

William Turner (Wturner)
Posted on Tuesday, March 05, 2002 - 11:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

BTW, after I unlock (after hitting the god damn button 7 @#$%ing times) with my POS keypad the little light on the dash blinks VERY fast, but the alarm wont go off while unlocked for any reason (like it's supposed to).
 

Kyle
Posted on Tuesday, March 05, 2002 - 11:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

My advice ? Buy the 1911 colt in the for sale section and do what feels natural to that alarm... :)

Kyle
 

Anonymous
Posted on Wednesday, March 06, 2002 - 07:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Batteries from the keypad are down. Replace them.
 

William Turner (Wturner)
Posted on Wednesday, March 06, 2002 - 10:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Why would the batteries in my keypad (that I recently replaced ALREADY) affect my alarm, when my keys are 100 yards away inside my apartment, but the signal barelly reaches 3 yards, when trying to unlock or lock, with the battery I just replaced AND the new one?

It can't be the battery, unless the new battery isn't "Lucas" compatable.
 

Mark Meyer (Deadelus)
Posted on Wednesday, March 06, 2002 - 10:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

William,

I had the same problem, or at least similar symptoms. Check for a lose connection at the battery, or else it is a bad ground somewhere.
Do you have relays clicking and going crazy under the dash, after the alarm fails to respond to the fob? I would have that problem and then the alarm would "reset" itself by going off until I could get into the car and start and turn off the ignition. I finally found a loose positive connection at the battery and that has seemed to fix it.

Hope this helps,
Mark (in Austin too)
 

William Turner (Wturner)
Posted on Wednesday, March 06, 2002 - 11:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I check it out!
 

William Turner (Wturner)
Posted on Wednesday, March 06, 2002 - 05:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

battery's not loose
 

J Mace
Posted on Wednesday, March 06, 2002 - 05:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Have you syncronised the key fob with the car? When fitting key-fob with replacement battery, take old battery out then press key-fob activator[s] for at least 10seconds to remove all electric charge. Fit new battery. Aim key-fob at car and press 'lock button' four times. On fourth press, car should lock.
I had same problem - alarm developed a mind of its own because electricity had not been completely drained from the hand-set. PS.. I live 2miles form the experts at Landrover Solihull UK !
 

William Turner (Wturner)
Posted on Wednesday, March 06, 2002 - 05:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

OK, now I'm confused.

The car locks and unlocks as is should (well, not really as it should, it still acts like the batteries dead, but it always did that).

When I am all the way in the house, or at work, the button is out of range anyway, so how could it affect the alarm then?

I think it may be a symptom of the whole door locking problem I've been having. See the door doesn't unlock all the way, and NOW maybe it has reached the point that it does not lock all the way either, so after the main car battery sits for a few minutes, or 30, or how ever long it takes, it drains to a point that the actuator moves or does something that activates the alarm.

That is all I can come up with.

?????
 

Mark Meyer (Deadelus)
Posted on Wednesday, March 06, 2002 - 07:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Sounds like some of those wierd Lucas problems that I have tried to grow to love. When it decides to work it works great, when it doesn't you might as well go buy another car. William, when you say the car seems like its battery is dead, when you activate the locks, do they go down really slowly, as if they aren't getting enough juice? I had that particular symptom when I was having my alarm problems. Also note that when I "tightened" my battery cables, they were NOT at all noticably loose, nor was there any corrosion of any kind on the terminals. My main symptom waas a total loss of juice when I turned the key from "on" to the accessory position right before all of the way "off". Everything would die immediately, the radio, the interior lights, etc. I also had the radio whine associated with revving the engine. All of that has gone away after I found the "bad connection"

Hope any of this helps,

Mark


Oh, yeah, you can clean the connections that run form the battery cables into the underside of the main fuse block in the engine bay. Those wires go into the bottom of the "fuse-block" and split up and get attached by screws to the seperate "fusible- links" that live in the fuse block. That could also be your prob lem. There is a fairly recent thread that regards this particular fix.
 

Moe (Moe)
Posted on Wednesday, March 06, 2002 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

"and NOW maybe it has reached the point that it does not lock all the way either"

Change or repair the door activator. I had mine replaced under warranty after experiencing similar symptoms.
 

William Turner (Wturner)
Posted on Thursday, March 07, 2002 - 12:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I have looked at it and I don't think that the problem is in the accuator, but in the mechanical plate where the locking and door latching actually takes place. I think this because when I use the key, thus mechanically forcing the mechanism to completely lock and unlock, it works fine, even the alarm, but it's very hard to move it indicating that the mechanism isn't working properly (I tried lube). I have looked at the actuator working with the panel off, and it IS moving just as far, as it ever could, so a new one wouldn't change anything. About a $55 part from the after market guys like Motorcars ltd.

I always knew this thing was a problem, just didn't think it was affecting the alarm until the dealer service rep introduced the idea of trying the key! I felt stupid.
 

J Mace
Posted on Thursday, March 07, 2002 - 04:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Did you try my posting about syncronising your key fob with the car? Changing key-fob battery without following the correct proceedure will not prevent the key-fob locking the car. It just does not lock it correctly. The alarm goes off some time later! Try re-instaling the key-fob battery.(I assume you have the correct type/code number battery for your key fob - wrong battery = problems)
 

Anonymous
Posted on Thursday, March 07, 2002 - 04:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Just re-read your posting -- hand set does not always work etc. Definately the hand-set. Syncronise the battery with the car as mentioned higher in the message board.
 

doug james (Dgj95lwb)
Posted on Thursday, March 07, 2002 - 04:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Just re-synced my '95 (one button) remote last night. The post above"press the button for 10 secs.." is correct. My o/manual says "min 5 secs"
(RRC)-D1 likely same in mid 90's. I did a 7 count, with batts removed.
Reinstall batts, then it will work fine, IF that's the limit of your problem.
I did not have to do the '4 times sequence' as mentioned; worked fine first time and it's perfect today. My symptom, after new batts, was one 'long' flash of outer lamps(when activated), not 3 'short' bursts it had before. Now back to 3 ! (one short @ deactivation)
Happy Rovering- dgj 95 @ 98k

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