D1 ABS brakes issue

n8thgr8 · Sep 13, 2016

So, every now and then at low speeds, my ABS kicks in. Like when turning in a parking lot or something, I press the brake, and get the ABS. WTF?!
So, in order to determine some other problems, I crawl under the truck and I discover that the drivers side front ABS sensor is all rusted to shit and literally falling apart.
I have a new one on order, but I know almost nothing about the ABS system. Is there something I should look for when I replace this?
I have the RAVE and the Haynes books.
the funny thing is, there isn't any codes at all, just occasionally the ABS light stays on when driving, but rarely a noticeable issue.

Buddy · Sep 14, 2016

I think this is pretty common on Di's. Must people just pull the fuses, the ABS on DI's sucks anyway and a pain to get working correctly.

WaltNYC · Sep 14, 2016

I tried to fix an intermittent ABS problem by renewing the bushing and seal around the sensor. Sensors were in fine shape. That worked for a while but I found that tight turns (in parking lots as you mention) would set off the ABS.

Recently, while doing a slow U-turn where I was basically full lock the pedal went to the floor and only the curb stopped me from hitting something.

I'm not sure why the sensors would fail to provide a reading to the ABS ECU when the wheels are turned sharply but that was a pretty consistent observation.

Never had trouble while traveling in a straight line (though I have read that other have had dramatic and dangerous failures).

I pulled the fuse in the engine compartment until I feel brave enough to try again.

p m · Sep 14, 2016

WaltNYC said:
I'm not sure why the sensors would fail to provide a reading to the ABS ECU when the wheels are turned sharply but that was a pretty consistent observation.

First, even when the sensors provide proper reading to the ABS ECU, the front wheel speeds are vastly different in a tight turn - so alone it may set ABS off.
Second, the ABS sensor wires are most-stressed in full-lock position - and this is much more-likely scenario for an ABS fault.

Believe me, it is possible to keep ABS on in a D1 and RRC, yet without ABS light or ABS kicking in when it shouldn't.
It just is getting more difficult to find good used sensors, and the price of new ones is ridiculous.

WaltNYC · Sep 14, 2016

too good to be true?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-ABS-Whe...ash=item2a4ef31837:g:cAsAAOSwcwhVJxgj&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LAND-ROVER-...fe514b&pid=100229&rk=2&rkt=15&sd=181770512973

p m · Sep 14, 2016

WaltNYC said:
too good to be true?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-ABS-Whe...ash=item2a4ef31837:g:cAsAAOSwcwhVJxgj&vxp=mtr

Holy cow, I need to buy a few!

WaltNYC · Sep 14, 2016

For $40 bucks for both fronts I'm willing to be a guinea pig.

p m · Sep 14, 2016

WaltNYC said:
For $40 bucks for both fronts I'm willing to be a guinea pig.

Already done.

n8thgr8 · Sep 14, 2016

p m said:
Already done.

let us know how they work. saving cash is nice. But I'll let you guys be guinea pigs for now.
I'll maybe just pull the fuse until I get the part in and can fix it.
I'm worried though about getting the old one out. it's so rusted to shit, it'll be powder as soon as I get any kind of grip on it.

MM3846 · Sep 15, 2016

n8thgr8 said:
let us know how they work. saving cash is nice. But I'll let you guys be guinea pigs for now.
I'll maybe just pull the fuse until I get the part in and can fix it.
I'm worried though about getting the old one out. it's so rusted to shit, it'll be powder as soon as I get any kind of grip on it.

x2. I'd really feel better with working ABS when my wife drives my D1. Mine slide in and out pretty well as is and have all new bushings and what not... I never read the ABS codes so maybe I should try that.

Will the ABS freak out without the rear tone rings in place? I can't remember if I put those back on or not.

p m · Sep 18, 2016

n8thgr8 said:
let us know how they work. saving cash is nice. But I'll let you guys be guinea pigs for now.
I'll maybe just pull the fuse until I get the part in and can fix it.
I'm worried though about getting the old one out. it's so rusted to shit, it'll be powder as soon as I get any kind of grip on it.

Sensors arrived yesterday, installed in the LWB today, the ABS/TC lights are still on. Hmmm....
EDIT...
Replaced left rear sensor, and cleared a ton of ABS codes - the lights were off. The $20 ABS sensors had correct resistance, and the close-to-factory clips installed on the wire jackets.

WaltNYC · Sep 20, 2016

$20 ebay-sourced sensors arrived. They included a bushing. I'm satisfied with build quality thus far and am hopeful based on pm's report above.

p m · Sep 20, 2016

Two more are on the way to my garage.

MM3846 · Sep 21, 2016

I guess I should check my ABS codes and see whats going on and then order these.

96discoI · Sep 28, 2016

there is info out there that says that the software in the brain is faulty. i got sick of mine causing unsafe conditions such as not stopping on dry pavement while pedestrians cross in front of me. i clipped the sensors at the wheel so they still block dirt from getting in and pulled the bulb from the dashboard. havent had a problem since. abs in a 96 d1 is horrible.get rid of it and drive that 5000 lb vehicle slow and responsibly. too many people expect their cars to drive or think for them. good luck.

p m · Sep 28, 2016

Found a faulty sensor and replaced with eBay one on a green D1. ABS light is off, and no unexpected ABS engagement noticed in 4 days.

White D1 sports ABS code 2-0 (ECU failure)... It does not reset using regular paper clip procedure - any other tricks?

96DiscoI - just to give you an idea: if you run into somebody (even not at your fault) and your (or other party's) insurer finds out that you have intentionally-disabled ABS, it's bad news. As much as I hate D1/RRC ABS, I'd rather keep it working.

n8thgr8 · Oct 5, 2016

Well, here's an update, ABS sensor replaced (I had it in the shop for something else and just had them do it)
ABS light is on full time now. As well as brake light.
When I picked it up from the shop, brake pedal wend right to the floor! I thought, "Oh, no problem I'll just top it off." Drove 1/4 mile flat to the gas station. bought some brake fluid, and topped it off.
I had pressure for one pedal pump.
then flat again. Drove it right back to the shop and said< "nope, cannot" get it fixed.
They say it's the MC. New one on order.

SO, question, WOuld the ABS light be on if the MC was bad? Taking care of the MC should take care of the brake light, but I don't know about the ABS light/codes...

p m · Oct 5, 2016

n8thgr8 said:
Well, here's an update, ABS sensor replaced (I had it in the shop for something else and just had them do it)
ABS light is on full time now. As well as brake light.

Have they actually checked the ABS codes before replacing the sensor?

n8thgr8 said:
SO, question, WOuld the ABS light be on if the MC was bad?

No.

When the master cylinder lives for many years and hundreds of thousands of miles, the piston wears out the cylinder walls up to a certain point. Bleeding the m/c "manually" using the brake pedal's full travel may lead to the O-ring on the piston getting cut on that ridge on the cylinder wall, and after that m/c needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

n8thgr8 · Oct 6, 2016

No, I didn't have the ABS codes checked before replacing the sensor. I did a visual inspection and saw that it was very corroded and decided that I should have it replaced.
Thank you. So the ABS issue and the MC issue are different. That makes sense.
I"m not going to freak out anymore about the ABS issue as long as my brakes are working properly otherwise.
Good Ole' PAH is coming back to the states this summer and I'll be able to have a real LR mechanic look at it.

p m · Oct 6, 2016

I don't think you can tell which sensor is bad by looking at it. At worst, you can hook up an ohmmeter to it and bend the wire coming out of the sensor right every which way and see if there are any changes in resistance. At best, you can use a paperclip or diagnostic tool to read and reset ABS codes.

D1 ABS brakes issue

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