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Old 08-07-2018, 02:26 PM
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I have been putting this off for years.
PO had a very funky setup for the aux lights, 4 on the rack, work light out back, and two on the bumper. Had switches everywhere but they were integrated and mostly hidden. The 2 circuits I am having issues with are the ones he used heated seat switches for. He did not use the real connector as a pigtail, he just used some female connectors, pushed them in and snot glued them with something he thought would hold them in place and make good electrical contact. None of them worked over time and wires have fallen off and things are missing.



I am trying to verify what the setup is now and that everything still works before cleaning it up.



For the heated seat switch, AMR 3602, does anyone have the pin outs for that? 5 pins and no additional markings. I think he had 3 wires connected to it, one of those was going to the relay. One was a ground and the other is a bit of a mystery.



He had some taps on the wires for the window switches. 1 was ground which he doubled to both switches, the other looks to be 40mV connection near as I can tell. Those required the key in the 1 or 2 position to work like the window switches. He used 2 separate ones off of different seat switches, 1 going to each switch and they both measure the same 40mV. Is that enough to trigger the relay or does it need to be 12 volts?


It used to work a few years ago but stopped and I never looked into it. Now I am just trying to figure out how he had it hooked up.


Anyone use an S pod or similar device? I see ARB has a multi switching type device as well now.
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Old 08-07-2018, 09:07 PM
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I don't seem to have the electrical diagrams handy, can someone point me in the right direction? I need to find out what the red with brown wire does that is on the window switch connections.
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Old 08-07-2018, 09:55 PM
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Red/Brown is the power for the interior lights. Check the voltage again with the headlights on and adjust the instrument lights to see it change. That feed is only for the light in the switch, not to power the relay.



The relay will be wired to turn on by a switched ground.
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Old 08-08-2018, 05:34 AM
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RAVE has the switch pin out.
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Old 08-08-2018, 12:50 PM
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Looks like mine was set to be switched by power, the only way I get the relay to trigger is to apply 12 volts to the line coming from the switch going to number 85 on the relay, then the circuit lights up.


I will check rave, thanks.


I found a pigtail for that switch and I have the wires I need to look them up now.
1 is green/purple
2 is red/brown
3 is empty
4 is blue/silver
5 is black
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Old 08-08-2018, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrummal View Post
Red/Brown is the power for the interior lights. Check the voltage again with the headlights on and adjust the instrument lights to see it change. That feed is only for the light in the switch, not to power the relay.
The relay will be wired to turn on by a switched ground.
Yep, tied to the parking lights and headlights. I only get 10 volts though, strange, maybe a lot on that circuit. It is enough to trigger the relay though. I need to look up the old Hella relays it is using to see what the specs are for that.
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Old 08-08-2018, 04:47 PM
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Looked it up and tried this, it worked.
1 is power, hooked up the light feed from the window switch tap

4 is the switched output to the relay pin 85

5 is ground
So the heated seat switch runs the lights, one switch for each pair on the roof rack.


After going through all of this I feel inclined to clean it up and I might just go with a Switch Pros SP9100. No relays, solid state circuitry, way more options than I have now and programmable. Gets rid of a lot of wiring and I won't have switches all over the place that are not labeled and only I know what they do.
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