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Old 05-14-2017, 10:00 AM
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hey guys, drove the LR3(141K) to raleigh yesterday and got the CEL. it also stalled on us while in idle and intermittently runs a little rougher than normal.
here are the codes
P0175
p0174
p0101
p0171
p0172

those are all lean or rich codes and then a mass air flow sensor. should i just try cleaning the MAF or is it dying and needs replaced? anyone had all these codes grouped together?
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Old 05-14-2017, 01:36 PM
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Those are lean and rich codes which is odd to have at the same time. Usually P0101 is set because of the throttle body being dirty. I would start with cleaning that, as well as running some BG44k or other injector cleaner through the fuel system. MAFS failures aren't super common, but it can happen. I have definitely seen a dirty throttle body cause stalling.
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Old 05-15-2017, 11:22 PM
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I cleaned my throttle body a month or so ago. It made a world of difference in idle quality and throttle response. Before I cleaned it, it would surge in park and the would kind of lunge when taking off from a stop. That's all better now.

Today I ran a can of BG 210 and then dumped some BG44K in the tank. Throttle response is even better. (or so I think... it could be placebo I guess). I did reset the trip computer and on my test drive I was getting 22MPG. (I expect that to go down with some stop and go on the way to work tomorrow).

The MAF on these is the same as a bunch of Toyotas.
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Old 05-16-2017, 07:44 PM
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I think once you get a fuel trim fault with the light on, you need to reset the adaptions.

Here's a good example of what I'm talking about. I lift the dipstick up out of the tube so oil doesn't back up in the valve cover when I'm filling it. If I forget to push that thing back down it will flag a lean fault. If I just clear the codes the car will go less than a mile and the light will be back on again. Even though I have fixed the vacuum leak by pushing the dipstick back into the tube. I have to reset the adaptions to make the code stop being flagged.
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by discostew View Post
I think once you get a fuel trim fault with the light on, you need to reset the adaptions.

Here's a good example of what I'm talking about. I lift the dipstick up out of the tube so oil doesn't back up in the valve cover when I'm filling it. If I forget to push that thing back down it will flag a lean fault. If I just clear the codes the car will go less than a mile and the light will be back on again. Even though I have fixed the vacuum leak by pushing the dipstick back into the tube. I have to reset the adaptions to make the code stop being flagged.
But also for that at-home mechanic, the lean faults should eventually clear themselves if it has actually been fixed.
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:43 PM
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I have an occasional lean code. I suspect it was due to some shitty gas on my Utah trip. How do I reset adaptations?
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Old 05-17-2017, 07:22 PM
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I have an occasional lean code. I suspect it was due to some shitty gas on my Utah trip. How do I reset adaptations?
You will need a scan tool that is more advanced than a standard OBDII reader.
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jymmiejamz View Post
You will need a scan tool that is more advanced than a standard OBDII reader.
Do you think a hard reset would reset the adaptions? I can't remember for sure but I think it does on the LR3 with the 4.4 Jag engine.
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jgdisco2 View Post
hey guys, drove the LR3(141K) to raleigh yesterday and got the CEL. it also stalled on us while in idle and intermittently runs a little rougher than normal.
here are the codes
P0175
p0174
p0101
p0171
p0172

those are all lean or rich codes and then a mass air flow sensor. should i just try cleaning the MAF or is it dying and needs replaced? anyone had all these codes grouped together?
If you clear the codes out of this thing and again get both lean and rich faults stored that would be really odd. I would smoke test it for leaks and flush the injectors. You could run some BG 44K thru the tank to clean them slowly and cheaper. The lean faults we see all the time, its the rich faults added in that make no sense. Maybe check the voltage drop across the ground circuit. Like from Battery neg post to the block while someone cranks it. Pull the fuel pump fuse and wait for it to stall,then have someone crank it while you measure the voltage drop from neg post to the block. It should be less than .3 of a volt. If you have 1 volt of drop it's way to much. I've been seeing them with 3 or more volts of drop lately. You have a ground strap in the right front wheel well that goes from body to frame to engine. That guy rots out and usually causes a no crank at times. But I see it cause a lot of strange shit.
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Old 05-18-2017, 10:00 PM
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Thanks guys, hopefully getting a chance to work on it beginning of next week. I will report the findings
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Old 05-24-2017, 10:15 AM
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Update: ran a can of bg 44 through the truck, maf cleaned as well as throttle body. CEL came back on after 30 or so miles. Codes are lean now P0171, P0174. Both banks are lean now. Intake gasket my next questionable possibility? Oxygen sensor?
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Old 05-24-2017, 11:06 AM
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Did you reset the adaptations?
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Old 05-24-2017, 11:15 AM
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No I don't have the scan tool to do that
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Old 05-29-2017, 04:28 PM
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P0101, P0172, P01075 have shown back up. Running really rough at low speed and idle, feels like it's "coughing" and isn't very responsive.
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Old 05-29-2017, 06:12 PM
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It is interesting that you get a P0101 after cleaning the throttle body, I've never seen that fault caused by anything else. Maybe you do in fact have a bad mass air flow sensor.
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Old 06-05-2017, 06:41 PM
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Could a P2098 also be the adaptive values or is it usually something else, like a bad cat?

I was getting a lean code or something from one of the upstream O2 sensors, and I think it was from someone welding in a cat and damaging the sensor. I replaced the sensors (all 4) and now the only code I get is P2098.
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Old 06-05-2017, 07:13 PM
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Update 2: installed a new MAF sensor and all has been well so far, instant improvement
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Old 12-19-2017, 09:29 AM
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Adding some advise after i had lean codes both banks. Fixed a couple leaks... added gasket maker to both EGR gaskets + tightened bolts on the back side of the EGR return tube. I guess 10+ years of exhaust vibrations loosened those EGR bolts.

Codes came back, Crap. My GAP IID tool reads fuel trim so watched some YouTube videos and was running ~+15 combined short plus long term trims. I read in jymmiejamz post above above on this thread to reset the engine adaptation values, so I did this with the GAP tool too. It IMMEDIATELY lowered both fuel trims to ~1%+-. It's only been a couple days but the engine adaptation values were part of my problem. The code hasn't returned yet! BIG THANK YOU!

I bet this is why many people report the lean codes will "go away" after a couple weeks of driving. I was hoping for an immediate fix to pass inspection, but the adaptation algorithms may prevent this for lean codes P0174 and P0171.

Last edited by kels83; 12-19-2017 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 12-19-2017, 08:31 PM
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Just to be clear, the adaptive values always start at 0. As you drive the vehicle will adjust the fuel trim as needed. If you reset the adaptions without doing a repair the faults will come back after a few drive cycles (or more if the issue isn't that bad).
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Old 12-22-2017, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jymmiejamz View Post
Just to be clear, the adaptive values always start at 0. As you drive the vehicle will adjust the fuel trim as needed. If you reset the adaptions without doing a repair the faults will come back after a few drive cycles (or more if the issue isn't that bad).

Thanks for the additional info, the codes have not come back yet, but I can't pass inspection in Texas because the "catalyst" and "evaporator" sensors show a status of "not ready". My GAP IID tool doesn't have any sensors with those names. I bet it's a matter of getting through some drive cycles, and I've put on about 50 miles during about 10 short trips. There is some published info on D2 drive cycles, but I can't find anything on the LR3/DISCO3. Any ideas?
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Old 12-22-2017, 07:58 PM
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To take what jymmie said even further. If you repair the reason you have a lean fault and then just clear fault codes. The light will come back on right away.

Good example: someone forgets to push the dipstick all the way in after filling with oil. It's a throwback from working on the old pushrod engines I suppose. The way they just wont take oil at large volume if the dipstick isn't out of the tube to let air rush out the tube when the oil goes in. Well if the tube is left up on those engines the light will come on when you test drive it for lean faults. At that point you have to reset adaptions to get the light to stay off.

Also would add that you more than likely have restricted injectors causing your lean faults. The cheap fix is add 44K to the fuel tank for the next couple fills. The fast fix is flush the shit out of them. I sometimes do it several times and retest the fuel trim adaptions each time. You can watch the fuel trim come closer into spec between each flushing. The best fuel injector cleaner I've used is a General Motors product called Top Engine Cleaner. You can buy the stuff in little 2 or 4 oz bottles and mix it with a canister of gas in a fuel injector cleaner canister.
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Old 12-22-2017, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jafir View Post
I cleaned my throttle body a month or so ago. It made a world of difference in idle quality and throttle response. Before I cleaned it, it would surge in park and the would kind of lunge when taking off from a stop. That's all better now.

Today I ran a can of BG 210 and then dumped some BG44K in the tank. Throttle response is even better. (or so I think... it could be placebo I guess). I did reset the trip computer and on my test drive I was getting 22MPG. (I expect that to go down with some stop and go on the way to work tomorrow).

The MAF on these is the same as a bunch of Toyotas.
Crazy as it sounds, cleaning the throttle real good fixes a lot of those MAF codes on these trucks.
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Old 12-23-2017, 06:50 PM
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Crazy as it sounds, cleaning the throttle real good fixes a lot of those MAF codes on these trucks.
From what helpline told me many years ago, a bad mass air flow meter will not set the P0101 Mass Air Flow sensor fault. A dirty throttle body will.
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Old 12-25-2017, 09:14 AM
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From what helpline told me many years ago, a bad mass air flow meter will not set the P0101 Mass Air Flow sensor fault. A dirty throttle body will.
I'm actually amazed guess line gave you good information. Probably from the old days with Arlo and Scott Tucker.I avoid them like it's my job to avoid them.
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