4.2 HG leaking - Ft. Bragg area shops, suggestions

BDM

BDM

Well-known member
May 23, 2005
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Hey guys,

Unfortunately I just found yesterday that my 4.2 blew a HG, front driver side corner by steering pump. It's not too bad right now. It cools just fine unless I'm under load pushing it up hill, then it will start to get hot. Otherwise runs and drives perfectly.

The army is PCS'ing the family out to North Carolina and will need a reputable shop. I report April 17th, school starts for me in early May.

Can anyone make any recommendations?

Also, if my schedule allows (will have more info once I report), would anyone be willing to help me with this? I'd be more than happy to pay for time, gas, beer, etc. I've never done a HG so not really sure what all it entails.

Thanks,
B
 
Tugela

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,763
564
Seattle
I totally get that you have a complicated situation and other obligations that may require you to hand this repair off to a professional, but if you can make the time for it I encourage you to take the project on yourself. The cash savings of replacing your head gaskets yourself can be considerable. Plus you know the quality of the work and you learn a lot about your truck in the process. Plus it's kind of like having fun, only different.

Start by reading this thread. If a complete novice such as myself (at the time) did this project successfully, anyone can. This site is a great resource and folks here can talk you through any challenges you run into.
 
BDM

BDM

Well-known member
May 23, 2005
333
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Thanks for the reply, Tugela. Well written out thread as well. Considering the money it will save, I'll most likely go this route hopefully time permitting.
 
Tugela

Tugela

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May 21, 2007
4,763
564
Seattle
If you haven't already, go to this site and download the free technical manual for your vehicle. It has excellent diagrams and step-by-step instructions for removal and replacement of all the components you'll need to access for the head gasket job. As well as torque values for hardware.

http://www.landroverresource.com/
 
M

mearstrae

Well-known member
Mar 15, 2017
143
18
Pennsylvania
I know my suggestion will fall into the half-assed category. But, timing being of the essence, try using some CRC Nano-tech engine sealer. This stuff works well on some leaks, it may just buy you some time. It is a bad idea to keep running with an overheating problem for any length of time, you may suddenly have a warped cylinder head (expensive fix on top of changing the head gasket). My wife (on her '95 R.R.C. Lwb) managed to 1.blow a head gasket, 2.blow the cooling tank, 3.split the radiator, 4.warp the cylinder heads. All in a short period of time, as she was trying to make it home before it quit altogether, needless to say she didn't make it.
 
chris snell

chris snell

Administrator
Staff member
Aug 15, 2005
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How badly do you need the truck as a daily? You could do it at the auto crafts shop over a few weekends I'm sure.

However, if you're in a school, I wouldn't count on time off to do that. I've done a few schools out there and they kept me very busy. I can't imagine doing a truck project during an Army school. These things are best done not rushed. There are plenty of good shops between CA and NC if you were planning on driving it out.

What's your situation?
 
BDM

BDM

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May 23, 2005
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Honestly a bottle of engine sealer doesn't sound too bad until I know I have the time and money to do this right. I just don't want to mess up the block.

Didn't think about the auto crafts shops on base. We will have our own garage so I got that going for me which is nice. I'll be entering SOCM early May so I do have a couple weeks. We're driving the wife's LR3 and shipping the RRC.

Since I'm down there probably good idea to do cam, lifters, timing chain right? Engine has about 155k and according to PO had the head gaskets done once already. I'm guessing not done well.
 
M

mearstrae

Well-known member
Mar 15, 2017
143
18
Pennsylvania
The biggest mistake I've seen on head gasket replacements is the heads aren't straightened and possibly skimmed before putting back on. On a friend's D2 his gasket change (done by a shop) lasted about a month, his heads were bowed about a sixteenth of an inch. it was redone properly (at additional cost: more new gaskets, another set of TTY bolts, etc.) and is doing fine two years down the road.
 
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,008
361
35
Los Angeles, Ca
BDM said:
Since I'm down there probably good idea to do cam, lifters, timing chain right? Engine has about 155k and according to PO had the head gaskets done once already. I'm guessing not done well.
Click to expand...

Replacing the cam is going to be a good bit more work. Nothing too difficult, but you then need to either pull the engine, or pull the radiator, condenser, and front cover.
 
K

kk88rrc

Well-known member
Mar 26, 2007
1,187
3
Portland Maine
www.kevinkeithphoto.com
BDM said:
Honestly a bottle of engine sealer doesn't sound too bad until I know I have the time and money to do this right. I just don't want to mess up the block.

Didn't think about the auto crafts shops on base. We will have our own garage so I got that going for me which is nice. I'll be entering SOCM early May so I do have a couple weeks. We're driving the wife's LR3 and shipping the RRC.

Since I'm down there probably good idea to do cam, lifters, timing chain right? Engine has about 155k and according to PO had the head gaskets done once already. I'm guessing not done well.
Click to expand...

I would skip the sealer. I've always heard it can cause more harm than good.... plugging radiator or heater core for example.

Having a garage & two weeks, I think you can get it done. I agree on doing the cam, lifters, & timing set too. You may be able to find some rebuilt heads that would save you some down time waiting on the machine work.
 
WeBeCinYa

WeBeCinYa

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Feb 25, 2016
131
5
NC
Are you seeing fluid come out of the top? Just trying to understand how you know it's in this place. If it's happening under load are you sure it's not another part of the cooling system and not HG?
 
Tugela

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,763
564
Seattle
kk88rrc said:
I would skip the sealer. I've always heard it can cause more harm than good.... plugging radiator or heater core for example.

Having a garage & two weeks, I think you can get it done. I agree on doing the cam, lifters, & timing set too. You may be able to find some rebuilt heads that would save you some down time waiting on the machine work.
Click to expand...

Agreed here - the Rover cooling system seems temperamental enough without adding compounds to it that could further impede circulation. I suggest you reach out to Will Tillery (540-462-7353), who has in the past offered rebuilt heads. He also sells complete head gasket kits and has been one of my go-to guy for parts over the years with consistently good results.
 
Tugela

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,763
564
Seattle
mearstrae said:
The biggest mistake I've seen on head gasket replacements is the heads aren't straightened and possibly skimmed before putting back on.
Click to expand...

This is a great way to ensure you'll repeat the job soon. Another critical step demanding complete attention and patience is torquing the head bolts on installation. Following the proper sequence and directions is straightforward, you just have to do it right. Marking the bolt heads with a line to show their relative position at 12:00/9:00/6:00 takes all the guesswork out of this step.
 
M

mearstrae

Well-known member
Mar 15, 2017
143
18
Pennsylvania
OK, if you're going to wait and do mods to add performance and dependability, here are some things I've done over the years with great success. I used these mods on three of my Rovers, a 1970 Rover 3500S (a car) with a 3.5L, A 1976 L.R. 109 with a 3.5L (early R.R. drive train), and a 1995 R.R.C. Lwb with a 4.2L. First off Buick listings for the 215cid engines are a help. I've used head studs whenever I change head gaskets (I know, most think this is only an added expense) ARP has these for the Buick 215 which are a good bit cheaper than the ones for Land Rover (you end up with eight shorts studs you don't use). It may just be habit, but I've done this since the late 60's for any engine with aluminum heads (back when you had to find your own studs, no ARP back then), and I've never done the job twice. A Crower RV cam with roller chain, also the Buick (Melling) high performance oil pump kit, this gives you more flow and raises the scary low oil pressure. I've used a couple methods to get 40,000 volts to the plugs, possibly over-kill, helps mileage and performance.

Wow... SOCM(ed), now that's an intense course that will give you little time for projects.
 
BDM

BDM

Well-known member
May 23, 2005
333
30
OR
WeBeCinYa said:
Are you seeing fluid come out of the top? Just trying to understand how you know it's in this place. If it's happening under load are you sure it's not another part of the cooling system and not HG?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately this was my thinking at first. After further investigation found leaks on both sides of the block. And coincidentally, it started getting hot while idling in traffic.
 
BDM

BDM

Well-known member
May 23, 2005
333
30
OR
mearstrae said:
OK, if you're going to wait and do mods to add performance and dependability, here are some things I've done over the years with great success. I used these mods on three of my Rovers, a 1970 Rover 3500S (a car) with a 3.5L, A 1976 L.R. 109 with a 3.5L (early R.R. drive train), and a 1995 R.R.C. Lwb with a 4.2L. First off Buick listings for the 215cid engines are a help. I've used head studs whenever I change head gaskets (I know, most think this is only an added expense) ARP has these for the Buick 215 which are a good bit cheaper than the ones for Land Rover (you end up with eight shorts studs you don't use). It may just be habit, but I've done this since the late 60's for any engine with aluminum heads (back when you had to find your own studs, no ARP back then), and I've never done the job twice. A Crower RV cam with roller chain, also the Buick (Melling) high performance oil pump kit, this gives you more flow and raises the scary low oil pressure. I've used a couple methods to get 40,000 volts to the plugs, possibly over-kill, helps mileage and performance.

Wow... SOCM(ed), now that's an intense course that will give you little time for projects.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Might as well make it nice while I'm down there I guess, especially if I'll be saving the money.

Yeah, I got 2 weeks until school starts. After that I'll have no time for anything!
 
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