weld on vs. bolt on diff gaurds

[marc olivares]

mine are like Rovertracks, but i paid $12 each at an industrial pipe shop, don't know what they charge for theirs.

simply put:
buy an 8" steel pipe cap (3/8" thick),
cut it down about a inch and grove it for the ring gear and drill hole for bung/plug
weld bung/plug into cap
remove LR diff cover
weld pipe cap in it's place, making sure the bung/plug is in the same location.

done for ever! most people don't even notice, others just look quzzled not knowing what is different about the housing.

not for the faint at heart, i know, and out of the realm of most DIYers abilities, but it is the most permanent solution period. The idea has been around for years, it's really nothing new... and yes you need to remove the axle from the vehicle

 

[Black Mustache]

sewer cap breaks down to this:
8" sewer cap, like a pvc pipe cap you put at the end of a pipe to end flow. costs about 30-40 bucks, avail at your contractor's pipe & supply warehouse.
next, do one of following:
drain, clean axle housing, cut off the flim-flam paper thin junk, cut the sides down on your pipe cap, clean again, then weld on the pipe cap (and depending on how well you cleaned, you might be putting out a flaming diff). buy or make a new panhard rod that can clear the new jumbo size diff cap.
or, trim down th top n bottom of the stock cap face where the ring gear extrusion will not allow an even contact (drain- mega clean- get fire extinguisher in the obvious order, of course) weld on (this method is less desirable for oil flow, imho). buy or make a new panhard rod that can clear the new jumbo size diff cap. buy or make a new panhard rod that can clear the new jumbo size diff cap.
pretty bulletproof once you are done.


oh yeah- marc just posted the drill & tap the fill hole part-

 

[zeeto]

simply put:
buy an 8" steel pipe cap (3/8" thick),
cut it down about a inch and grove it for the ring gear and drill hole for bung/plug
weld bung/plug into cap
remove LR diff cover
weld pipe cap in it's place, making sure the bung/plug is in the same location.

or you can cut that pipe cap in half, cut out some space on the bottom for drainage, cut a hole for the plug, weld them on and you have guards for both front and rear...
it's what i've done with every yota axle me or my buddies have ever used....

 

[curtis]

Probably its best non-essential feature is that it looks like a boob.

 

[Black Mustache]

zeeto is right.
curtis is more right.

 

[Iron Boots]

RJ,

Discovery 2.

Bruno.

That would be it.

 

[Black Mustache]

HOLY SHIT~!!!
HAHAHA, i somehow missed page 3 of this thread...
for all of you not blessed with the presence of the Great White Hope, thats my shitbox with the bashed up diffs that Mr. Lee posted up. that happened at the entrance to John Bull abuot 2 years ago- the Duct tape fiaso was out of control by the time if finished that run... looked like a gigantic saggy diaper. we all sat around and poked it with sticks the next day.
anyway, to reiterate my point made earlier, whatever you ladies decide, take it from me- get something on your junk.

 

[gadams]

Wow, really is a sewer cap - very cool, very out of my range. Thanks

Greg

 

[rover4x4]

who makes the best diff guards?

 

[Black Mustache]

I DO

 

[john]

A rear QT has all the good things: protection for pinion and gear carrier, protection for the underbelly of the axle, full wraparound protection for the pan; and none of the bad things: welding. So the rear QT axle slider offers the best features and protection available. (and looks like panties to you)

The best features and protection available? That's pretty funny. I wouldn't go that far. The QT ain't all that. For example, I think a Mantec diff guard with a Rockware pinion guard offers far superior protection, and without looking ugly as well.

Back to the waisted vs. non-waisted design. I was just cleaning out the shop tool box tonight and realized that Snap-on uses the waisted design. Check out these 3/8" Wobble Drive Plus extensions:

Note how Snap-on could have kept the extensions at full diameter but chose to do the extra work to waist down the shafts to match the mean diameter of the head:

Just as with the GBR halfshafts, the waisted design actually produces a stronger design. The limiting size on these extensions is the 3/8" anvil that must plug into the socket. To make the extensions' shafts thicker than 3/8" would actually weaken them, not strengthen them.

Snap-on has spoken. The arguments are now over.

That's all you had to say, Negro.

Click.

 

[nickb857]

John is that a pulp fiction refrence you put in at the end there. Great movie. Any how thanks every one for all of the ideas and the suggestions, they are really appreciated, keep them comming.

 

[Bruno]

That's all you had to say, Negro.

The Wolf !

LOL,
Bruno.

 

[Ray Wallace]

QT is the way to go for durability and the most protection.
Ray

 

[JSQ]

QT is the way to go for durability and the most protection.
Ray

You're retarded.

go do your homework.

 

[Roverlady]

LOL, Ray, did you think you needed to revive this thread because I mentioned it in the General section?! Or perhaps you are just trying to invoke an argument?

 

[JSQ]

I think he's trolling.