110 rear brakes on a D1

fishEH

fishEH

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AfiRover said:
Fish
I got rid of the little shield POS when I reworked the ninjas d1
I did make my own mounting bracket and weld it to the axle because buying one was a supper pain in the assssss from red winch
ran SS lines done.
Click to expand...

My shields are gone as well, I maintained the bracket as a spacer.
You're talking about running front calipers in the rear. I'm talking about running D110 rear calipers in the rear of a D1. They bolt right on, just need about a 2mm spacer with D1 rear rotors, or no spacer with the D110 rear rotors.
Again, this isn't so much a stopping performance upgrade as it is a functionality upgrade.
 
D

DiscoPhoto

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p m said:
Actually, running front D1 calipers in the rear is the first thing I thought of. I vaguely remember that discussion...
so if you have any experience in that, please share!
Click to expand...

At that point, why wouldn't you run NAS D90 vented rotors/calipers? Same mount
 
p m

p m

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Front or rear?

In front, I definitely could. In the rear, it is probably overkill. And... if any of Utah wet clay ever makes it into these vented rotors, it will never leave.
 
Tugela

Tugela

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fishEH said:
Again, this isn't so much a stopping performance upgrade as it is a functionality upgrade.
Click to expand...

Sorry to rehash this, but to be clear. Is your primary objective for replacing stock D1 rear calipers with D110 rear calipers for the advantage of the brake pad securing design, not because they add stopping power?

While that is an improvement, it would be better still to achieve additional stopping power on the rear wheels, especially if you already have D90/D110 front calipers.
 
Buddy

Buddy

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Nov 6, 2006
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p m said:
Actually, running front D1 calipers in the rear is the first thing I thought of. I vaguely remember that discussion...
so if you have any experience in that, please share!
Click to expand...

I'm running the DI fronts in the rear. I would go with the 110 rears and plan to go to those in the future. You have to modify the axle mount or wallow the holes out as the bolt spacing is about 1/8-1/4" wider. Plus with the added volume the pedal feel is not the best.
 
fishEH

fishEH

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p m said:
Front or rear?

In front, I definitely could. In the rear, it is probably overkill. And... if any of Utah wet clay ever makes it into these vented rotors, it will never leave.
Click to expand...
Same thing for Michigan's UP!!

Tugela said:
Sorry to rehash this, but to be clear. Is your primary objective for replacing stock D1 rear calipers with D110 rear calipers for the advantage of the brake pad securing design, not because they add stopping power?

While that is an improvement, it would be better still to achieve additional stopping power on the rear wheels, especially if you already have D90/D110 front calipers.
Click to expand...
I did this swap on my buddies truck. His stock rear calipers were awful, each had a piston completely seized. He was going to buy new calipers anyway so I told him he should try the 110 rears that have a better pad retention design. The goal In this case wasn't better stopping power. The 110 rear pads might be ever so slightly bigger, but not much. The goal was to get a better designed caliper that would bolt right on.
Its kind of like the D2 Cruise Control ECU upgrade. Sure you could repair your broke-ass D1 Cruise ECU, but the D2 conversion just seems to make life simpler.

As mentioned you could run front calipers in the rear by buying or making adapters or wallowing out holes. But you still get into MC issues.
My friend's truck has a 2" lift with 235/85 tires so getting crazy with the cheese wiz didn't seem appropriate.
 
Tugela

Tugela

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fishEH said:
getting crazy with the cheese wiz didn't seem appropriate.
Click to expand...

That is a cultural reference from the 1990s that I would just as soon forget.

Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like I'll keep D110 calipers in mind for when my rears need replacing on my D1. The current calipers are pretty new, so it may be a while.
 
CORover

CORover

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OK, so it seems like things are fairly settled as far as they can be here for the rear of a D1. I have been through several of the older posts for the front and have arrived at no such conclusion. Can we attempt that here to have a complete D1 brake upgrade thread?
Part numbers, options for vented or not, model, year etc.

https://discoweb.org/showthread.php?t=93559&highlight=brakes
https://discoweb.org/showthread.php?t=92811&highlight=brakes
https://discoweb.org/showthread.php?t=83389&highlight=brakes
 
fishEH

fishEH

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Lake Villa, IL
CORover said:
OK, so it seems like things are fairly settled as far as they can be here for the rear of a D1. I have been through several of the older posts for the front and have arrived at no such conclusion. Can we attempt that here to have a complete D1 brake upgrade thread?
Part numbers, options for vented or not, model, year etc.

https://discoweb.org/showthread.php?t=93559&highlight=brakes
https://discoweb.org/showthread.php?t=92811&highlight=brakes
https://discoweb.org/showthread.php?t=83389&highlight=brakes
Click to expand...

Front is easy, without even looking at your links.
If you want vented rotors gets calipers, pads, rotors for a NAS D90, '94,'95,'97.
If you want solid rotors get calipers, pads, rotors for a NAS D110, 1993 was the only year.
Any of these parts can be found stateside at Atlantic British, RoversNorth, etc. Even RockAuto.

*Front pads are the same for a NAS D110 and NAS D90.
 
p m

p m

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fishEH said:
Front is easy, without even looking at your links.
If you want vented rotors gets calipers, pads, rotors for a NAS D90, '94,'95,'97.
If you want solid rotors get calipers, pads, rotors for a NAS D110, 1993 was the only year.
Any of these parts can be found stateside at Atlantic British, RoversNorth, etc. Even RockAuto.

*Front pads are the same for a NAS D110 and NAS D90.
Click to expand...
... and if 93 110 front calipers cannot be found, these are nothing but 94,95,97 90 calipers without the spacer.
 
D

DiscoPhoto

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I'll put a list together tomorrow of genuine part numbers. Basically you want vented 90 setup up front, non vented 110 rear setup.

NAS 110s used non vented front discs, and drum rears.
 
fishEH

fishEH

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DiscoPhoto said:
I'll put a list together tomorrow of genuine part numbers. Basically you want vented 90 setup up front, non vented 110 rear setup.

NAS 110s used non vented front discs, and drum rears.
Click to expand...

IF you want vented front brakes. I won't run them again. My rotors got packed full of mud and it was a painto clean out.
 
CORover

CORover

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fishEH said:
IF you want vented front brakes. I won't run them again. My rotors got packed full of mud and it was a pain to clean out.
Click to expand...

My Disco is not a race car, I think I will stick with solid. We don't get much mud in CO, but it is still a pain to deal with.
 
D

DiscoPhoto

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It's a worthwhile upgrade, my brakes are much better now after switching(could have been the tired pads/rotors/calipers). But I hear you

Front Vented Setup(requires bending of hard line from flex to caliper)
Caliper: LH: SEB500470
RH: SEB500460
Rotors: LR017952
Pads: SFP000260
Fitting kit: STC8575

Rear D110 Setup, direct fit
Caliper: LH: STC1269
RH: STC1268
Rotors: LR018026
Pads(Genuine come with fitting kit): SFP000280
 
D

DiscoPhoto

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CORover said:
My Disco is not a race car, I think I will stick with solid. We don't get much mud in CO, but it is still a pain to deal with.
Click to expand...

You are correct... it's not a race car. But yesterday when a car pulled in front of me while I was doing 40, I was able to lock up 33s on dry pavement and come to a stop before turning the woman's legacy into just that...
 
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