I made the cable for pin-shifting as described earlier in the thread.
then I tried to use that cable with my neighbor’s “Launch” code reader (he probably got it on Amazon) that claims that it can reset airbag light on Disco 1 (I had verified it not to be the case with the supplied/std OBD2...
What: 75th birthday for Land Rover
Who: all Land Rover clubs and owners
Where: Greek Peak Mountain Resort
When: June 14-18, 2023
Why: really? You are asking why???
more details: https://www.anarc.club/
Looks like the ANARC event really starts on Thursday morning. So I’d need to leave Wed.
My son has a school test he can’t skip on Thursday morning and I’m looking for a seat for him Thursday afternoon from someone leaving/passing by the northern Virginia area -or- eventually that can meet him...
Any update? :)
Got my OBD2 extension cord last week and will modify it for the need.
now…… I’m really hoping that Hawkeye is not needed and I can use either generic adapter (or any easy piece of code to run through something like Rovergauge) or a Nanocom (since I own one)?
Look for connector C412 in the Discovery Electrical Manual as seen here: http://www.landy.ee/manuals/electricity/Disco_Elec.Troubleshooting%20Manual%20-%20LRL0077ENG%20(1997).pdf
yes, still looking (though, I placed an order for a new one today.... Not sure if credit card charge went through yet!). Are you trying to sell it? Does it have the full brush guard?
For posterity, the connector of the D1 (NAS? mine is a 1996 D1 NAS) audio amp is reference CET1809 on this website: https://connectorexperts.com/i-31643962-cet1809.html?ref=category:1458530 which was helpful finding a connector based on its pin (aka "cavities"). Now.... at $100, I'll be looking...
Looking for a D1 front winch bumper (not ARB, more streamlined/light design like a Safari Gard or similar look).
Ideally for a body--lifted (2") truck, but I'll make the necessary modification(s) if needed.
That's good feedback on the front bumper as I only have a stock one at the moment and it does not look great! :)
Would love to see a pic of that "RTE rear for a 2” bodylifted truck" setup if you have one and might be interested in buying it if you are parting with it.
Radiator top seal relocation. I used a 1/2" x 1/4" L-shape aluminum bar that I secured using existing bolts (if I had to do this again, I'd get a 1"x1/4 or at least 3/4" x 1/4 L shape to get the existing bolts through it instead of just sandwiching it with two washers.... I might have to redo...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.