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Well friends, my CC died again. I found that the actuator had a pin hole and thus could not hold the vacuum. I purchased a new actuator from Atlantic British and installed it. However, the CC is still a 'no-go'. Logical thinking would tell us that if the CC was working then stopped working...

The fault was two fold. The ECU had a dead component that was found by Module Master in ID. Fault 2 was a broken tab on the switch that is located on the break pedal bracket. A rebuilt ECU and a new switch and it's golden. Of course I replaced the vacuum hoses as well.

I'm pleased to announce I now have a FULLY FUNCTIONAL cruise control and I am loving it! Thanks to AfiRover!!! He is incredibly gracious and knowledgable.

The ECU is indeed unplugged. I'm touching my meter probes to the multi pin connectors only. When I touch the connector point of the white/yellow and red/white I get no beep on my meter. That is why I connected one probe to ground because I wasn't sure what you meant.

Pin 9 has 12v .6 ohms to ground on pin 8 (if I have my meter set correctly as I'm new to this science) If you mean wire to wire continuity between white/yellow and red/white there is none. There is continuity from white/yellow to ground but none from red/white to ground.

Should the pump be coming on when I push-in the dash CC on/off switch? I swapped-out the CC ECU earlier today. I bought it from RoverLand Parts in FL. I've checked the hoses and they appear fine. The hose on the brake pedal switch is connected and appears brand new, as does the switch. the...

No sir. There are zero warning lights illuminated on the dash.

Hold-up! I thought to try the other terminal on my original pump as the GROUND and viola! The pump works. Now my next question is this. With the key in the ON position, if I push in the CC switch on the dash should that start the pump EVEN if the truck isn't moving? Because it is not. I even...

Right. Plugged-in the refurb ECU and tried the cruise control during my commute. No go. I've now pulled my original pump to try a "supposedly" working one. However, it is different. The plug terminal on the original has three tabs. The replacement unit has 5 tabs in a straight line. Numbered...

Cute. LOL I actually discovered that it's held in place by a retainer clip. A sharp probe gets it started then I used a small flat blade screwdriver to complete the clip removal. The plug is then easily removable. Now. Accessing the nuts to remove the ECU is the next challenge.

I've located it but now cannot figure how to safely release the plug. Can someone give me a tip?

OK. My refurb CC ECU has arrived and I'm thinking of using my breaks at work to try swapping out the original for the refurb unit. I know I must remove the glove box but after that I don't know the exact location of the ECU. Can someone please tell me where to look? Thank you.

Thanks for the pic/tip!

I thought of removing the box but couldn't possibly get a socket or any sort of tool on those bolts. No room at all. How on earth did you do it?

Yes. That much is easy. I'm referring to accessing the actual ECU in that plastic box. Then having to pry-off the face plate. Then sliding out the board was perilous as it hits the glove box frame so you have to pull sideways and up which bends the board a little. Getting it to slide back into...

Can anyone tell me if accessing, removing and replacing the CC ECU is as supremely uncomfortable and frustrating as was the rear window ECU for that "easy fix"?

Hello dishsoap1, Did you ever get your CC working? I am also obsessed with getting mind working. Just ordered a refurbished ECU from Roverland Parts and was told a little later by Atlantic British that I may have to have the refurbished ECU programmed as it will not match my VIN. WHAT...

Mike, I've tried lifting the tiny tabs to clear the slots then pulling the bottom half but it will not budge. Plus it no longer wants to stay depressed or click when pushed-in.

Does ANYONE here know how to disassemble these switches? Or where to buy the replacement bulbs?

CandiMan please explain the method in which you were able to disassemble the switches in order to replace the blown bulbs/LEDs. I want to see all of my controls working and this is driving me nutty. Please help. NorCalDisco1