Yes to both.
That makes it different from the windows control box - on this one, it is easier to slide out the board.
96 Discovery Cruise Control and VSS Voltage Issue
- Thread starter dishsoap1
- Start date
That makes it different from the windows control box - on this one, it is easier to slide out the board.
I thought of removing the box but couldn't possibly get a socket or any sort of tool on those bolts. No room at all. How on earth did you do it?
OK. My refurb CC ECU has arrived and I'm thinking of using my breaks at work to try swapping out the original for the refurb unit. I know I must remove the glove box but after that I don't know the exact location of the ECU. Can someone please tell me where to look?
Thank you.
Thank you.
I've located it but now cannot figure how to safely release the plug. Can someone give me a tip?
Cute. LOL
I actually discovered that it's held in place by a retainer clip. A sharp probe gets it started then I used a small flat blade screwdriver to complete the clip removal. The plug is then easily removable.
Now. Accessing the nuts to remove the ECU is the next challenge.
I actually discovered that it's held in place by a retainer clip. A sharp probe gets it started then I used a small flat blade screwdriver to complete the clip removal. The plug is then easily removable.
Now. Accessing the nuts to remove the ECU is the next challenge.
Right. Plugged-in the refurb ECU and tried the cruise control during my commute. No go.
I've now pulled my original pump to try a "supposedly" working one. However, it is different.
The plug terminal on the original has three tabs. The replacement unit has 5 tabs in a straight line. Numbered from right to left (5-3-1) so the 1 appears on the right side of the terminal. The tabs between the numbers have no markings so I suppose they are 2 and 4.
I tried connecting battery voltage on my original to the blue/white tab and brown/red for ground. I did nothing.
The question is can I simply remove the original plug and solder the connections directly to the tabs? That begs the question; which tabs do what? Does anyone know?
I've now pulled my original pump to try a "supposedly" working one. However, it is different.
The plug terminal on the original has three tabs. The replacement unit has 5 tabs in a straight line. Numbered from right to left (5-3-1) so the 1 appears on the right side of the terminal. The tabs between the numbers have no markings so I suppose they are 2 and 4.
I tried connecting battery voltage on my original to the blue/white tab and brown/red for ground. I did nothing.
The question is can I simply remove the original plug and solder the connections directly to the tabs? That begs the question; which tabs do what? Does anyone know?
Hold-up! I thought to try the other terminal on my original pump as the GROUND and viola! The pump works.
Now my next question is this. With the key in the ON position, if I push in the CC switch on the dash should that start the pump EVEN if the truck isn't moving? Because it is not. I even tried starting the engine and pushing the button but the pump still does not start. Yet it starts when I directly connect voltage and ground. Any ideas?
Now my next question is this. With the key in the ON position, if I push in the CC switch on the dash should that start the pump EVEN if the truck isn't moving? Because it is not. I even tried starting the engine and pushing the button but the pump still does not start. Yet it starts when I directly connect voltage and ground. Any ideas?
Should the pump be coming on when I push-in the dash CC on/off switch?
I swapped-out the CC ECU earlier today. I bought it from RoverLand Parts in FL.
I've checked the hoses and they appear fine.
The hose on the brake pedal switch is connected and appears brand new, as does the switch. the electrical connection to the brake pedal switch appears solid.
I swapped-out the CC ECU earlier today. I bought it from RoverLand Parts in FL.
I've checked the hoses and they appear fine.
The hose on the brake pedal switch is connected and appears brand new, as does the switch. the electrical connection to the brake pedal switch appears solid.
do you have power at pin 9 on the cc ecu
how many ohms from pin 8 to ground ? cc ecu
wire white /yellow and red/white does it have continuity ? at the cc ecu
check these and report back
how many ohms from pin 8 to ground ? cc ecu
wire white /yellow and red/white does it have continuity ? at the cc ecu
check these and report back
Pin 9 has 12v
.6 ohms to ground on pin 8 (if I have my meter set correctly as I'm new to this science)
If you mean wire to wire continuity between white/yellow and red/white there is none.
There is continuity from white/yellow to ground but none from red/white to ground.
.6 ohms to ground on pin 8 (if I have my meter set correctly as I'm new to this science)
If you mean wire to wire continuity between white/yellow and red/white there is none.
There is continuity from white/yellow to ground but none from red/white to ground.
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white/yellow to ground ?
do you have the ecu out of the system when testing ?
I'm interested in wires at this point. please no ecu
do you have the ecu out of the system when testing ?
I'm interested in wires at this point. please no ecu
The ECU is indeed unplugged. I'm touching my meter probes to the multi pin connectors only. When I touch the connector point of the white/yellow and red/white I get no beep on my meter. That is why I connected one probe to ground because I wasn't sure what you meant.
ptschram
Well-known member
No. The Cruise Control only works when the vehicle speed is above about 35 MPH