'00 D2 - Fuel Filter?

A

atomicmoose

Guest
I am dealing with a rough idle and inconsistent acceleration problem with my 2000 D2. No check engine light. Air filter was dirty, so I replaced it. I also picked up a fuel filter since one was listed in the catalog. However, I cannot find where it might be. I thought I traced the fuel lines from the tank to the injectors, but I must be missing something.

Any input/help is appreciated! :)
 

KDamericano

Well-known member
Oct 16, 2006
193
0
Denver, CO
Hope you kept the receipt. The D2's fuel filter is part of the fuel pump, and non-serviceable. When was the last time you did your plugs/wires? Any check engine light?
 
A

atomicmoose

Guest
KDamericano said:
Hope you kept the receipt. The D2's fuel filter is part of the fuel pump, and non-serviceable. When was the last time you did your plugs/wires? Any check engine light?
Been a little while since I had a tune up...maybe 30k miles.

No CEL.
 
A

atomicmoose

Guest
Rough idle and terrible acceleration got much worse today. CEL came on. Did not have codes read yet.
 

swede

Well-known member
Aug 27, 2007
59
0
Unless the codes say something obvious consider having a compression-test done
 
A

atomicmoose

Guest
swede said:
Unless the codes say something obvious consider having a compression-test done
Well, I am going to have the codes read today on my break. On my way to work this morning, the CEL would flash occasionally. Idle sputter and bad acceleration were still present. I know I have a bad O2 sensor downstream from the cat that I need to replace. Would this cause the issues I have now?

Also, she goes into the shop on Thursday.
 

DISCOIITODD

Well-known member
Feb 22, 2007
77
0
Eugene, Oregon
mine did the same thing only my "Service Engine Soon" light was flashing, not the CEL. turned out to be a missfire in cylindar 6. new plugs and wires did the job.
 
A

atomicmoose

Guest
KDamericano said:
Bad 02 may cause that, but a flashing CEL is bad. Try not to drive it as much as you can until you get the codes read.
I'm going to park it once I get home tonight.

You think I should try new plugs and wires before the shop sees it, or just let them handle? I am pretty competent when it come to minor car repairs, but I really don't have the time/money to be shooting in the dark.
 

hywy61

Well-known member
May 25, 2004
738
0
atlanta, ga
Forget the fuel filter.

Probably need new plugs and wires. I had the same problem. Bucking like a bronco - turned out to be a bad plug wire.

What shop? Independent or Dealer? Dealer will rape you on this one. If its an indepent and you can get it done for several hundred (not including the price for the wires and plugs themselves) then I would let them do it.

As far as doing it yourself you could start with the plug wires. You'll need to do a search here as this subject has been discussed alot.

1. Removing the intake is not necessary.

2. I removed the aluminum tubing behind the intake 1st. A little trickey but well worth it.

3. Lay some plywood across the engine so you can lay down to get behind the intake.

4. You'll need a rave cd diagram of the coil pack corresponding to the correct cynlinder number. Take time to make sure its right - otherwise you'll be doing it twice!!!!! It has been posted here before so do that seach.

5. Took me better part of a day to do the wires and plugs but it was my first time and I went slow to make make sure it was correct.

Good luck and let us know how you made out.

DII - 98K
 
A

atomicmoose

Guest
hywy61 said:
Forget the fuel filter.

Probably need new plugs and wires. I had the same problem. Bucking like a bronco - turned out to be a bad plug wire.

What shop? Independent or Dealer? Dealer will rape you on this one. If its an indepent and you can get it done for several hundred (not including the price for the wires and plugs themselves) then I would let them do it.
I only use the dealer when absolutely necessary! I have a very good local shop that does all my work and they are reasonable.

hywy61 said:
As far as doing it yourself you could start with the plug wires. You'll need to do a search here as this subject has been discussed alot.

1. Removing the intake is not necessary.

2. I removed the aluminum tubing behind the intake 1st. A little trickey but well worth it.

3. Lay some plywood across the engine so you can lay down to get behind the intake.

4. You'll need a rave cd diagram of the coil pack corresponding to the correct cynlinder number. Take time to make sure its right - otherwise you'll be doing it twice!!!!! It has been posted here before so do that seach.

5. Took me better part of a day to do the wires and plugs but it was my first time and I went slow to make make sure it was correct.

Good luck and let us know how you made out.

DII - 98K
Thanks for the tips...I really appreciate it. If I had the time, I think I would tackle this, but I just don't and it's running awful. I will let them do it on Thursday I think.

Again, thank you for the great info!
 
A

atomicmoose

Guest
Turned out to be 2 bad coil packs. @ $260 per pack, it was not a cheap fix as I had hoped.

But at least she is running again... :)

On a side note, the dealership that I use sucks! They told me that I had two burnt valves and that a full head pull would be required to fix the problem at the tune of $3500. Considering I had a valve job done less than 50,000 miles ago, I knew they were full of crap.

Needless to say, I passed on having the dealership do the work and after the coil packs were fixed, and compression test showed no abnormalities.

This is the second time the LR dealer has tried to screw me....not all together happy about it.
 

hywy61

Well-known member
May 25, 2004
738
0
atlanta, ga
Not that I am suprised the dealership tried to screw you but that it just total crap.

Are they that bad that they can't even correctly diagnose a problem?

I would call LRNA and complain. I wouldn't be pissed if it was simply $200 or so off but $500 vs $3500?
 

hywy61

Well-known member
May 25, 2004
738
0
atlanta, ga
I should start another thread on this but..

So i guess bad coil packs don't throw codes? Mine did something similar but it was a bad plug wire and I got codes.
 
A

atomicmoose

Guest
RangeRoverHP said:
Did that $260 per pack include installation?
That was for the part.

hywy61 said:
Not that I am suprised the dealership tried to screw you but that it just total crap.

Are they that bad that they can't even correctly diagnose a problem?

I would call LRNA and complain. I wouldn't be pissed if it was simply $200 or so off but $500 vs $3500?
I may just do that...

It seems to me they were really going for the gusto on this one. :banghead:

hywy61 said:
I should start another thread on this but..

So i guess bad coil packs don't throw codes? Mine did something similar but it was a bad plug wire and I got codes.
The code I was getting was a cylinder misfire code. That could be anything.

They came to this diagnosis via a comparative compression test. The cylinders that showed low compression were the ones not firing. Now, any tech worth his salts knows that unburned gas will leak down past the rings, washing them and cause low compression. But not this tech, he jumps right to burnt valves and writes up the paperwork.

Are you kidding me??