04 D2, 4.6l New owner Random questions

Rob371

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2016
150
1
Charlevoix, Michigan
Bought this vehicle couple weeks ago. So far the crank sensor failed, with a little guidance from here I got it going again. I hear a lot of scary stories about liners in these engines. This one has 105k on it. Looks like the front main seal leaks, , possibly the rear. I plan to degrease it, change oil, and monitor the sources of oil leaks. Looks like the intake has to come off to RnR valve cover gaskets. I see the schrader valve for fuel pressure isn't very conveniently located. The frame is not rusty, previous owner garage kept it and didn't drive it in the winter. Interior and exterior are very nice.

We live in Northern Michigan so we like our 4x4s in the winter. The plan is my wife will drive it through the winter and possibly give it to our daughter in the spring. I spent the last 18 years as a marine mechanic and electrician, prior to that I worked on cars for a few years, and I have a degree in automotive repair, plus a lot of experience with small engines. I'm not bragging, just saying I have the ability to diagnose and fix things though at times not necessarily the desire.

Being new to the Land Rover brand I'm just curious what are some common issues I should be aware of. Also, aside from oil changes and fluid levels, what preventive maintenance I should consider. What oil is recommended? I can refer to the manual for that but figured I would ask. Why the need for premium fuel? Is this thing running high compression ratio or a lot of timing? Doesn't the ECM have the ability to retard the timing if using lower octane? That engine is not a real screamer so the premium fuel requirement has me wondering. Anybody have links to a service manual?

Sorry, it's a bunch of random questions, just trying to learn my way around this thing.
 
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Shiftonthefly1

Well-known member
Aug 11, 2014
433
15
Las Vegas
Use Shell Rotella 15w/40 in summer 5w/40 for your winter.

I use the large Wix/ Purolator filter. I don't have the part numbers on me at the moment.

Google search RAVE manual. You'll find the download link.

Premium is a must.


Change to a genuine 180 degree thermostat. Like now. Change the front driveshaft for greaseable u joints if it hasn't been done already.

Get an ultragauge or the like to monitor real temps. The gauge is useless. Over heating is the number 1 killer. Most don't even know it's happening.

When you get the 3 Amigos lemme know. I have a free ABS amigo on permanent loan to the community. Look up shuttle valve repair in the meantime. Maybe you'll get lucky and it's already been done.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,745
1,026
Northern Illinois
You did the crank sensor and that's real common. These have a throttle heater plate that leaks a lot. It will leak onto the drivers side valve cover and run off the rear of it. Know about the inertia switch and how to reset it. I would guess your going to have to put a door latch or 2 in it eventually, maybe a wheel bearing or two. Headgaskets and broken oil pumps. Plug wires for sure. Your truck uses a watts link in the rear To keep the axle centered and when those get loose they make a lot of noise and cost a ton. But I think most important thing would be to check your front drive shaft for any signs it's failing. If that lets go it almost always destroys the transmission by breaking a big hole in the side of it.
 
Jan 25, 2010
3,544
4
your moms bed
May want to check the rear frame horns being from the rust belt. If they aren't to bad might be a good idea to por them before they get worse.
 

Rob371

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2016
150
1
Charlevoix, Michigan
Frame looks solid. Minimal rust. I'll be sure to look closer at the rear for sure. Thanks for the tip. This thing is pretty clean with exception of the oil leaks so not anticipating any surprises on the frame but that's good to know. I warned my wife about overheating. Told her if gauge moves even a little just pull over and shut it down. However, I'm confident she will never look at the gauge. Previous owner said he was good about oil changes but I think it's a safe bet he didn't do anything else.

My guess is the t-stat is original. Sounds like I should change it and maybe do a coolant flush and refill.

It does have brand new brakes and tires so that's a plus.

I am aware of the inertia switch, that was first thing I checked when the crank sensor failed.

From the sounds of things I need to pay close attention to cooling, and maybe spend some time inspecting under carriage.

All good info, thanks. Keep the tips coming.
 

Dangeruss

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2007
104
1
Ontario, Canada
I left my truck idling on a 100 degree day while I popped into a store for a few minutes and when I came back there was a large orange puddle under it. Luckily it was still coming out when I shut it off, the top outlet of the stat had failed under the barb and the hose popped off, a couple more minutes might have been bad news. Luckily it was a short walk to an auto parts store for a hose clamp and a couple of gallons of coolant.
That was at about 100k miles, so changing the stat is a good plan in by view.
 

kcabpilot

Well-known member
Mar 26, 2006
334
1
California
Compression ratio is reason for premium, no knock sensors so ECU can't compensate. Ultra-gauge or a bluetooth dongle and an app called Torque on your smartphone to monitor temp but honestly if you keep an eye on the coolant level to ensure you aren't losing any it will be fine. Un-noticed throttle body heat or weeping head gasket leading to coolant loss will bite you if you're not paying attention.

I blew a head gasket at the end of a 2500 mile trek all over Utah this summer, I'll admit I really was thrashing the poor thing and it has 180k on it but halfway across Nevada and headed home to California I was able to limp it back to my brother's place in Cedar City, never got stranded or had to call for a tow - though I did eventually haul it home on a trailer. I picked up a low mileage 4.6 from drillbit along with an extra 4.6 crank and rod set for a good price. Dropped the used motor in and will take my time rebuilding my original into an uber 4.6 with flanged liners.

If you are a good wrench these trucks are viable, all of the standard issues can be overcome. If you don't know how to turn a wrench or don't like doing it get a Toyota.
 

Rob371

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2016
150
1
Charlevoix, Michigan
SO??? What is the compression ratio on these?

Being an 04 I would expect a knock sensor. Being SFI I would expect programming that can handle a little knock and just retard the timing no matter what the octane is.

I love the comment about getting a Toyota if I don't want to spin wrenches. Spot on. I own 07 Toyota Tundra CrewMax. 146k and nothing. Brakes, tires, oil changes,... That is it. 4.:31 gears, 6 speed, and the 5.7 is a 380hp rocket motor. Awesome truck.

I've also got an 07 Forerunner in my sights. 4.7L with 33k on it.

I spin wrenches for a living. Last thing I want to do is work on my own stuff, but more than that I really hate to pay someone else to fuck up my cars.

I really appreciate the input from everyone.
 

Hubacek

Well-known member
Apr 28, 2015
88
0
Dallas, TX
Last thing I want to do is work on my own stuff, but more than that I really hate to pay someone else to fuck up my cars.

that is my philosophy on auto repairs as well. This D2 made me more of a mechanic than I ever wanted to be.
Your Tundra is a real beast. I didn't know they were equipped that well.
I had a 2004 4-Runner back in college. Battery, brakes, tires, and a fuel injector 1 time.

You are aware of all the bullet points now: front DS, the Shell Rotella 15/40 (which is used for its zinc package in relation to the flat-tappet-camm'd Rover, but has just undergone a reformulation to reduce phosphorous/ash so we are still waiting for a VOA on it) and the temp gauge is a 3-position switch but doesn't relay to the "overheat, Red, past halfway," until 240-250 degrees. In essence, if the temp gauge moves at all beyond normal, your engine has already overheated. Before I got a secondary reader I saw steam on 2-occasions whilst the temp gauge read completely normal. Since having alternate gauges, I once hit 225 & rapidly climbing on a "live view" OBD2 (forgot to tighten hose clamp after inline thermostat housing mod & install) and normal it was at the cluster. I have the GlowShift setup now and adding another for oil pressure on a dual-Apillar pod. Roverware.US has billet oil pressure sensor adapter tapped for a 1/8 sending unit.

Useful links to new D2 owners:
http://www.landroversonly.com/#/forumsite/20681/topics/45362?page=1

http://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/major-service-29020/

Workshop manual. Aka RAVE
http://www.landroverresource.com
 
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