04 D2 , brake bleeding problems

[Cris_rrc]

Hello guys I have my 2004 D2 , yesterday replace 4 regular brake lines with SS lines , after doing the usual bleeding of the passenger rear , driver rear , passenger front and drivers front , no luck my brakes suck going going to the floor only if I pump it it will grab a little , did this bleeding sequence 3 times no more air in the lines but it sucks , so today I found out that you a computer to get this bleeding right , but I also read about gravity bleeding so I gave that a tried , so it gravity bleed for 4 hours , went for a test drive is better than yesterday but erratic will grab good and then it will not , so by now the question is do I have to bite the bullet and take it to a LR shop so they can bleed the truck the right way ??

 

[K-rover]

Hello guys I have my 2004 D2 , yesterday replace 4 regular brake lines with SS lines , after doing the usual bleeding of the passenger rear , driver rear , passenger front and drivers front , no luck my brakes suck going going to the floor only if I pump it it will grab a little , did this bleeding sequence 3 times no more air in the lines but it sucks , so today I found out that you a computer to get this bleeding right , but I also read about gravity bleeding so I gave that a tried , so it gravity bleed for 4 hours , went for a test drive is better than yesterday but erratic will grab good and then it will not , so by now the question is do I have to bite the bullet and take it to a LR shop so they can bleed the truck the right way ??

The only reason you would have to have the testbook to bleed is if you let air get into the MC or ABS modulator.
When I installed my SS lines, I had a buddy pump the brakes while I cracked the bleed screw. All the while topping off the resv with fresh brake fluid. Never had a problem.

 

[Cris_rrc]

That may be the case then a month ago I blew a caliper and dumped the entire brake fluid , replace the caliper fill it back up and it wasnt braking good but just enough , but now is even worst . So I know I ran empty the time I blew the caliper

 

[K-rover]

Ive heard you can get air out by activating ABS/traction control.. Seems risky to me though, since you would have to be on loose surface with no real brakes.

 

[Cris_rrc]

I just copy and paste this bellow from another forum going to try tomorrow


Dear god, don't you guys listen to us LR techs, the easiest way to bleed any modulator is to bleed it at the modulator. Not the brakes. just fill the reservoir then have an assistant pump the brakes five times and hold. open the first line on top then open all five of the lines and then tighten up and pump five more times then open them again. this time starting with the second one on the top and then open all five lines, then pump five more times, open the third one, pump five times and then the fourth one on top and the all five and fill it back up. that will get the air out without using testbook. In fact this way works for any modulator on any vehicle except for older P38 and RRC.

 

[K-rover]

I just copy and paste this bellow from another forum going to try tomorrow


Dear god, don't you guys listen to us LR techs, the easiest way to bleed any modulator is to bleed it at the modulator. Not the brakes. just fill the reservoir then have an assistant pump the brakes five times and hold. open the first line on top then open all five of the lines and then tighten up and pump five more times then open them again. this time starting with the second one on the top and then open all five lines, then pump five more times, open the third one, pump five times and then the fourth one on top and the all five and fill it back up. that will get the air out without using testbook. In fact this way works for any modulator on any vehicle except for older P38 and RRC.

That is some good info.. Let us know if it works!

 

[Devildog01]

Brakes are for pussy's.

 

[leshassell]

I just copy and paste this bellow from another forum going to try tomorrow


Dear god, don't you guys listen to us LR techs, the easiest way to bleed any modulator is to bleed it at the modulator. Not the brakes. just fill the reservoir then have an assistant pump the brakes five times and hold. open the first line on top then open all five of the lines and then tighten up and pump five more times then open them again. this time starting with the second one on the top and then open all five lines, then pump five more times, open the third one, pump five times and then the fourth one on top and the all five and fill it back up. that will get the air out without using testbook. In fact this way works for any modulator on any vehicle except for older P38 and RRC.

Can anyone elaborate on this? I'd like to give this a shot but the procedure here is a bit vague.

 

[helievacpilot]

You may have already done this, but might be worth a try. I was putting SS lines on an old Volvo years ago and could not get a solid pedal to save my life. All the lines were tight, but I went back and tightened them more. Almost gorilla tight. Problem solved. MTCW.

 

[kennith]

I've been fighting a soft pedal recently, as well. I picked up a pressure bleeder, but it doesn't have the damned cap that will fit the reservoir. I know I can make one, but I just haven't had the time.

I've got the Faultmate MSV-II, but I've never done power bleeding before. I don't know quite what I should be doing. I'm not even sure if the modulator is in good enough condition to pull it off, actually.

I might mess around with a little more attention around the master cylinder area, and try some of what's in that post. I replaced that a little while back, and bled it as best I could, but it just didn't work out.

The vehicle is safe, but not ideal for anything other than road use and light off pavement play at the moment.

It's bugging the hell out of me, really. I'm going to bleed it conventionally again just for good measure, but I sure would like to get that pressure bleeder working. The fucking adapters are there to fit pretty much anything else out there, but not a DII.

Cheers,

Kennith

 

[leshassell]

My brakes have never been stop-on-a-dime but they've never caused me any issue until this week when they failed inspection. I've bled the brake lines so many damn times over the years and its never seemed to change anything so now I'm thinking maybe the modulator needs to be bled... either that or I need to try a new MC. The older post says to bleed the modulator "open the first line on top then open all five..." I'm guessing the "open all five" actually means to open the five remaining lines but I still don't know if I should do that before or after closing off the first. Anybody care to shed some light on it before I decide to go make things worse?

 

[jymmiejamz]

I've bleed brakes on Disco's loads of times, and I've never once used T4 to bleed them.

 

[bri]

Power bleeder was a piece of cake. Cant remember where I got mine likely british pacific. Get the universal mount (see kenniths pain ).

 

[kennith]

Power bleeder was a piece of cake. Cant remember where I got mine likely british pacific. Get the universal mount (see kenniths pain ).

I've got the MityVac pressure bleeder. It's actually very nice, but not even the adapter kit included anything that would work. I just ordered one of the cone adapters, which is something I was thinking about making anyway.

Hopefully that will work. Pressure bleeding really is the way to go, and it's damned easy when you've got a compatible adapter.

Cheers,

Kennith

 

[Dave03S]

Another method of bleeding the modulator is to put the truck in low range, get up to about 20mph and hit the HDC and let that slow the vehicle down.

Bleed the brake lines, then try above, then bleed lines again.